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just ordered a set from jegs, good price. i don't like to buy used unless i can look at it in my hands. now what about a set of cherry bomb glass packs? got any ideals?
The best place is "Don't". Most cheap headers will not allow you to change your starter on an FE without loosening the passenger side header and then raising the motor up about 8 inches.
Trust me, this happened to me outside of Newcastle Pa. My starter went out on my F250. Thinking "No Big Deal", I went to my friendly parts house, bought a starter and the proceeded to be in for a nightmare. While in the process of doing all of this stuff, (I was in a parking lot for a convenience store) the police came and almost towed me off saying I could not "overhaul" my truck there. Thanks goodness I was finishing up the job and talked them into letting me finish. As soon as I get the time, the old stock Log manifolds are going back on.
David, Cheep aint got nothing to do with it. Hooker Super Comps required 6 hours and removal to change out the starter for me. I bought a reman starter, lasted 2 weeks, and I had to do it all over again. I have learned my lesson. Headers is for racing.
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John
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
I completely disagree with you John, but you already knew that. I use the flowtech headers and you can get them from autozone for $99. The starter and the headers have to be unbolted but the headers don't have to come completely out to remove the starter. It takes me about 2 hours to change the starter. I have had no leaks whatsoever and it really helps the engine breath whether its stock or full race.
Say it aint so Sean, you built your truck to race, and done tore into it a couple of times already. Are you saying it didn't take me six hours to change out the starter. I was there and you weren't, I should know. Maybe if I had cheap headers I could have changed the starter out quicker. I can change out the starter on my other truck in about 15 min, and don't have to take off nothing but the starter, and cable.
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John
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
I'm not saying that it didn't take you six hours to change the starter nor that I could do it on your truck any faster John. On mine it doesn't. The point I should have been more clear about is that I don't base my opinion about what exhaust system I should run by how difficult it is to change the starter. You are right about my buildup intentions though. I did built the truck expecting substandard streetability and maximum performance for the $$ I had to work with but even on a stocker I would run headers. FE manifolds with the exception of the performance ones are a bad design. If I were looking to make an engine as quiet as possible for the best ride quality possible only then I would consider using stock manifolds.
I know what you was a doing Sean, you jumped over there with DF and was throwing rocks in my yard. Some of you boys would put headers on your cereal spoon if you could.
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John
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
I'm not sure what you are saying John. I'm not trying to throw rocks in anybody's yard I don't think. You have an opinion on a matter and I respect your opinion but I disagree. I must of missed something with DF?
Personally I like running headers on a street vehicle, but I've gotta agree about not going with cheap headers. You get what you pay for. If you get a cheap set, they may not fit right and you may end up pulling them out before a year. Get a good set and get them ceramic coated. This will lower the temps around the starter. I also run a heat blanket on the starter, HD soleniod, and a 900 CCA battery, and make sure you have a quality starter - no a cheapo rebuild. I have no heat soak problems even when it is 100 degrees outside.
The Hooker Competition headers do not have a bolt on collector and the passenger side collector angles into the tranny a little. They also will not fit the edelbrock heads.
The FPA headers are a Tri-Y and you can get them in a 3/8" flange and 14 gauge tubing. Specify which heads you are running and they will make a set with the right flanges to match. Here's their web site:
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/Headers.htm
I thought Sanderson sells shorty headers which is a good compromise between a regular header and a stock manifold. It should allow for easy starter removal.
I believe Stans Headers are a Try-Y and have heard nothing but good things about them. Here's the web site:
http://www.stans-headers.com/default.htm
I went with the Dynomax headers. I got pics of the install on here somewhere, search for my posts on this forum. My starter lasted about 5 months before I had to replace it, and yes the pass side header did have to come off...But since I have taken it off about 3 times already(I am going to purchase one of those ratcheting wrench sets from SEARS to make the job easier) I am somewhat of an expert lol. I can have the headers off, replace thstarter and get the header back on in about 3 hours...And I am a NOVICE mechanic (hardest thing Ive done is replace a timing cover on a 350)I am gonna be pulling the pass side head since I broke one of the header bolts off in the head but thast's another story lmao
I put flow tech headerws on my 360. The are a divison of Holley. They cost about $114 after tax. They sound nice with dual exhuast and glass packs, but are kind of a pain to put in. On my '72 I had to loosen the the motor mounts and finagle with the starter.
I have to agree that headers are a pain in a** to have when a starter has to be changed on the trucks, I have a 390 with Edelbrock Heads and Hooker headers, the headers work fine on those heads. If I had to do it over I would have a set of fenderwell headers built.
74 F100 Pre-run style, 390, C-6, 4:11 detroit locker.
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