Ignition switch replacement questions
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Freshman User
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Ignition switch replacement questions
Starting my '95 AWD XLT Aerostar with 180,000+ miles is becoming a real nuisance. The switch has developed a lot of play and now if the switch isn't in exactly the right place the key will not turn.
I'm looking to replace it and see a few different varieties around (number 1 cut letter A, number three cut letter C, etc). I don't know what these mean, how can I tell what unit I need? The mail order houses list these at about $50 which seems a bit steep but probably still undercuts my local parts houses by $20-30 so it's worth it for me to figure out which one I need before I take it apart.
Also, while I've raised the subject, can any of you offer advice/insight into how to remove the old switch, rekey and replace the new one?
TIA!
I'm looking to replace it and see a few different varieties around (number 1 cut letter A, number three cut letter C, etc). I don't know what these mean, how can I tell what unit I need? The mail order houses list these at about $50 which seems a bit steep but probably still undercuts my local parts houses by $20-30 so it's worth it for me to figure out which one I need before I take it apart.
Also, while I've raised the subject, can any of you offer advice/insight into how to remove the old switch, rekey and replace the new one?
TIA!
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 2
From: Portland, Oregon
ummmmmmmm... idk how help full this will be to you... but usualy when shops replace the ignition switch they "have" to mess with the gear selector, and never get it lined up so the arrow poins right on the letter again. ex: my aero' OD is between the OD and the D... my dads is between N and OD... "they" (the shop) claimed that there would have to be a "special" part ordered that would cost extra to have it lined back up right (bs imo) so yea be careful if you chose to have to have it done... but i don't see why a lock smith wouldn't re-key a new ignition for you. its just basicaly a fancy lock that starts your car and what not...
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 217
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From: North Carolina
you can do it! by buying a whole switch, then swap it out...
I suppose you've tried a spray lube to make it work a little longer? Both mine need lubed.
I've not replaced one on an Aerostar yet. Most of them just unbolt off the column and unplug out of the wiring harness. You may need a hammer and chisel to remove the headless tamper proof bolts if it uses that kind. use the chisel to gently tap the head around to unscrew it. the hex breaks off upon tightening them to discourage theft.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/05/00/ee/0900823d800500ee/repairInfoPages.htm
Tried to get more specific info but their server was slow couldn't get past this page:
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,2147601/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/vehicleSelected.htm
I've not replaced one on an Aerostar yet. Most of them just unbolt off the column and unplug out of the wiring harness. You may need a hammer and chisel to remove the headless tamper proof bolts if it uses that kind. use the chisel to gently tap the head around to unscrew it. the hex breaks off upon tightening them to discourage theft.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/05/00/ee/0900823d800500ee/repairInfoPages.htm
Tried to get more specific info but their server was slow couldn't get past this page:
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,2147601/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/vehicleSelected.htm
New User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2
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Tia,
It is possible that you do not need the ingnition switch, but may only need a new ignition lock. This is a common problem and an easy and inexpensive fix. To remove the lock you have to have the key in and the ingition lock turned to the run position. From the underside of the steering column there is one hole that you use a puch to push in a pin that holds the lock in. Once you push the pin in the lock will pull right out. Your new lock ($15 or so from Auto Zone, Fleet Farm or ???) should then slide right in and when turned to the off position the pin will lock the new ingintion lock in.
Use a flashlight to find the right hole to put the punch in and to also get an idea where the little pin that you will push in is located. You will have to stick the punch though a hole in the plastic and then an inch or so of open space before contacting the brass or silver colored 1/8" or so diameter pin. This is the only hard part of replacing the lock.
Realize that after replacing the lock you will have new keys that come with and will only work with the ingnition lock. Your old key will have to be kept to use in the door locks. There are ways to make your old key work in the new ingnition lock, but you risk wreaking the new lock. The other solution is to have a very patient person cut your new keys to match the last 4 bumps and vallys on your old key, but this will only work if the middle of the 9 bumps and valleys of the old and new key are the same. This is because the ingnition lock uses the 5 bumps and vallys, while the doors locks use the 5 that are furthest from the tip of the key. Thus the ignition and the door locks only have the middle bump or vally in common. The keys that come with the new ingintion will only have the first 5 cut in to match the tumbler pins in the lock.
Good Luck,
Ed
It is possible that you do not need the ingnition switch, but may only need a new ignition lock. This is a common problem and an easy and inexpensive fix. To remove the lock you have to have the key in and the ingition lock turned to the run position. From the underside of the steering column there is one hole that you use a puch to push in a pin that holds the lock in. Once you push the pin in the lock will pull right out. Your new lock ($15 or so from Auto Zone, Fleet Farm or ???) should then slide right in and when turned to the off position the pin will lock the new ingintion lock in.
Use a flashlight to find the right hole to put the punch in and to also get an idea where the little pin that you will push in is located. You will have to stick the punch though a hole in the plastic and then an inch or so of open space before contacting the brass or silver colored 1/8" or so diameter pin. This is the only hard part of replacing the lock.
Realize that after replacing the lock you will have new keys that come with and will only work with the ingnition lock. Your old key will have to be kept to use in the door locks. There are ways to make your old key work in the new ingnition lock, but you risk wreaking the new lock. The other solution is to have a very patient person cut your new keys to match the last 4 bumps and vallys on your old key, but this will only work if the middle of the 9 bumps and valleys of the old and new key are the same. This is because the ingnition lock uses the 5 bumps and vallys, while the doors locks use the 5 that are furthest from the tip of the key. Thus the ignition and the door locks only have the middle bump or vally in common. The keys that come with the new ingintion will only have the first 5 cut in to match the tumbler pins in the lock.
Good Luck,
Ed
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
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Thanks Ed, That's what I was looking for. I'll explore the key issue further.
Originally Posted by RedWagon
Tia,
It is possible that you do not need the ingnition switch, but may only need a new ignition lock. This is a common problem and an easy and inexpensive fix. To remove the lock you have to have the key in and the ingition lock turned to the run position. From the underside of the steering column there is one hole that you use a puch to push in a pin that holds the lock in. Once you push the pin in the lock will pull right out. Your new lock ($15 or so from Auto Zone, Fleet Farm or ???) should then slide right in and when turned to the off position the pin will lock the new ingintion lock in.
Use a flashlight to find the right hole to put the punch in and to also get an idea where the little pin that you will push in is located. You will have to stick the punch though a hole in the plastic and then an inch or so of open space before contacting the brass or silver colored 1/8" or so diameter pin. This is the only hard part of replacing the lock.
Realize that after replacing the lock you will have new keys that come with and will only work with the ingnition lock. Your old key will have to be kept to use in the door locks. There are ways to make your old key work in the new ingnition lock, but you risk wreaking the new lock. The other solution is to have a very patient person cut your new keys to match the last 4 bumps and vallys on your old key, but this will only work if the middle of the 9 bumps and valleys of the old and new key are the same. This is because the ingnition lock uses the 5 bumps and vallys, while the doors locks use the 5 that are furthest from the tip of the key. Thus the ignition and the door locks only have the middle bump or vally in common. The keys that come with the new ingintion will only have the first 5 cut in to match the tumbler pins in the lock.
Good Luck,
Ed
It is possible that you do not need the ingnition switch, but may only need a new ignition lock. This is a common problem and an easy and inexpensive fix. To remove the lock you have to have the key in and the ingition lock turned to the run position. From the underside of the steering column there is one hole that you use a puch to push in a pin that holds the lock in. Once you push the pin in the lock will pull right out. Your new lock ($15 or so from Auto Zone, Fleet Farm or ???) should then slide right in and when turned to the off position the pin will lock the new ingintion lock in.
Use a flashlight to find the right hole to put the punch in and to also get an idea where the little pin that you will push in is located. You will have to stick the punch though a hole in the plastic and then an inch or so of open space before contacting the brass or silver colored 1/8" or so diameter pin. This is the only hard part of replacing the lock.
Realize that after replacing the lock you will have new keys that come with and will only work with the ingnition lock. Your old key will have to be kept to use in the door locks. There are ways to make your old key work in the new ingnition lock, but you risk wreaking the new lock. The other solution is to have a very patient person cut your new keys to match the last 4 bumps and vallys on your old key, but this will only work if the middle of the 9 bumps and valleys of the old and new key are the same. This is because the ingnition lock uses the 5 bumps and vallys, while the doors locks use the 5 that are furthest from the tip of the key. Thus the ignition and the door locks only have the middle bump or vally in common. The keys that come with the new ingintion will only have the first 5 cut in to match the tumbler pins in the lock.
Good Luck,
Ed
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Joined: Nov 2006
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Well, even if you don't choose to let a locksmith do the work for you, you can usually ask one to order and key up an ignition cylidner to match your existing key combination. Or at least depending on year, you can order one keyed to match the "common" cuts between the door and ignition and have the door cuts added to the key.
On Ford 10 cut locks, the system works such that cuts 1-6 work the door and 5-10 work the ignition (5 and 6 overlap). When you order a new ignition lock you can specify the 5,6 cuts. This will mean the key that comes with it will only have cuts 5-10 cut and the cuts 1-4 will be uncut. The 1-4 cuts on your old key can be copied to the new key and voila you have a 1 key car again,
On the other hand, locksmiths can order ignition locks, that come with no keying whatsoever. They can then select whatever they want to key them to.
Lastly, usually when I see these kind of problems, the first thing I do is decode the key and recut it to factory specifications. Many times, it is actually the key that is worn and needs to be remade. This is the cheapest solution to try.
On Ford 10 cut locks, the system works such that cuts 1-6 work the door and 5-10 work the ignition (5 and 6 overlap). When you order a new ignition lock you can specify the 5,6 cuts. This will mean the key that comes with it will only have cuts 5-10 cut and the cuts 1-4 will be uncut. The 1-4 cuts on your old key can be copied to the new key and voila you have a 1 key car again,
On the other hand, locksmiths can order ignition locks, that come with no keying whatsoever. They can then select whatever they want to key them to.
Lastly, usually when I see these kind of problems, the first thing I do is decode the key and recut it to factory specifications. Many times, it is actually the key that is worn and needs to be remade. This is the cheapest solution to try.
