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I can't get a brick layer to put a little coultured stone on,(dark rundal, stacked stone to be exact) so I'm going to attempted it myself, was wondering if I can cement it to painted stucco. I picked up some premixed cement in a bag. should I put some white glue in the mix?, and was wondering how thick to apply the mortar to the back of each piece, before it goes on. any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I think you're supposed to fasten some finer mesh wire to the wall, little smaller than chicken wire. Then you apply the mortar over that. Then add the stone into that. After that sets, you go back and fill in more around the stone. If I'm remembering right. Not sure on the thickness. I'd do a test run on a smaller piece of plywood, with wire. If you can't find any help or answers.. Good Luck.
OK so I work construction,,, Actually own my one biz,,I dont think you need wire mesh and dont use mortar!! use tile thin set It will hold to the painted surface better,, if the rock are heavy you should use tie clips which are nothing more than a small pc of metal,( looks like corragated metal I think you use them every sq ft They should attach easy to the stucco If Framed construction..with some screws Just butter the backs first and attach,,maybe 1/2 inch then you use a grout bag (this is where you use the Mortor) and do inbetween the stones,, and tool or point to your desired look wet the stone first
Good luck!
I frammed houses for about 9 years and watched the stone masons quite a bit. They would always put up chicken wire and when they went to place a heavy rock they would take a piece of tie wire, tie one end to the chicken wire , take it over the rock and tie it back to the chicken wire. It would hold the rock in place until it dried enough to hold itself. Then they would cut the wire and mud in between the rocks. I am sure there are a hundred and one ways to do it, that is just how Ive seen it done.
I think you are right about tying the heavy stones and that was as the homes were being built then yes best to tie to wire mesh,,,I guess we need to here from Omni about how big the stones are.. If smaller one's are used it is not necessary to use the wire,, It all depends on how high the fasade will be as to how the stones are applied also...
thanks for the replies. the stone is a coultured stone, you know the man made stuff, its quite light in weight, all the pieces are 4" wide but various lenghts. its called a stacked stone so theres no mortar reguired. I picked up premixed cement from the supplier to apply it with. the stucco is quite ruff, I'm hoping the cement should stick, they also sold me some acrylic bonding agent to paint on the stucco first, to help it bond.
I'm sure you will be fine with the materials they sold you,, be sure to use the bonding agent only on the stucco and wet the back of the veneer before you apply the premix
to the back of the stone and the wall, should be 1/4 in. thick on each side,, if you stack more than 3 ft high use L shaped ties near the top.. Start with the corners first, If you dont have a laser level use chalk line to get a strate line for your hight..
i have been a bricklayer for 12 years and have done alot of the cultured stone you should but some wire up you can buy where you purchased your stone and when installing put the little cups up ypu will see them when you look at it be sure to fasten the wire good to the wall i mean extra good. then you will get some portland cement it comes in bags and can get at home depot. then you will put a coat on top of the wire and make it flat but not smooth do this all over the wall and let it dry. then you can use your premix to lay the rock so if you get some on the rock it will look like when you grout the rock in. pick out a rock and spread some cement on the back of the rock and stick it to the wall wiggle the rock alittle to get some compression. lay your next rock and try to leave no bigger than a 1/2 inch joint and no less than a 1/4 inch joint try to keep them uniform 3/8 inch.after you have layed all your rock go to the hardwhare store and get you a grout bag{looks like a big cake decorating bag} trust me this will save lots of time if you cant find one go to the grocery store and
get a couple cake bags they work good just not very big and youll need to make the hole in the bag a little bigger, now use the bags and feal the joints just mix the premix like the feel of pancake batter, after the cement joints get thumb print hard take a wire brush and brush joints so they look even dont dig to much cement out of the joints be carefull this part will make or break a job go slow and make it look right. after wire bruching take a small soft brush and fine toon all the joints this will make them smooth after all the joints have dried use wire brushes and clean the rocks of the cement you have dropped on them any q's e mail me britton.wood@yahoo.com
A. Install thin veneer stone and mortar in accordance with ACI 530.1/ASCE 6/TMS 602 Specifications for Masonry Structures.
B. Maintain masonry courses to uniform dimension(s). Form vertical and horizontal joints of uniform thickness.
C. Pattern Bond:
1. Lay out work in advance and distribute color range of stone uniformly over total work area.
2. Lay stone with the face exposed. Take care to avoid a concentration of any one color to any one wall surface.
3. Maintain squared and uniform profile.
4. Do not use stacked vertical joints.
D. Placing and Bonding:
1. Dampen substrate as required to reduce excessive suction.
2. Apply mortar in accordance with to a thickness of 1/4 inch to back of stone.
3. Press firmly to seat each stone as placed.
4. Work from the bottom up laying corner pieces first.
5. Remove excessive mortar as work progresses.
6. Do not shift or tap veneer stone after mortar has achieved initial set. Where adjustment is required, remove mortar and replace.
7. Isolate top of veneer stone from horizontal structural framing members and slabs or decks with compressible joint filler and sealant in accordance with Section 07900.
E. Joints:
1. Lay stone with reasonably uniform joints, as stone allows.
2. Remove excess mortar as stone is pressed into position.
3. Use non-corrosive stone shims as required to maintain joint thickness.
I've seen more and more homes now with "open" joints--no mortar. It's a fad/trend/style.
Personally, I'd use the wire mesh because the stucco is painted. Paint and (highly basic/caustic, same as paint strippers often are) cement products don't necessarily play nice together. I'm a painter by trade--I wouldn't trust a thin layer of paint to hold stone...
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