A long two weeks its been without my truck running. Driving an f-150 sucks after driving my truck for a year and a half. Anyways the story goes like this, my alternator went out, and it wasnt going to be fixed until the end of the weekend, that was 2 weeks ago. Well, I decided to tackle a Regulated Return fuel system. That is 97% completed. I have one fuel leak, at the Drivers side rear head, thanks to a bad fitting summit sent me. So its got a small leak, and i have to wait until the middle of next week for the new parts to arrive. It took about an hour for me to get all the air outta the lines between the Dahl and the Y block. It took me 20 minutes to figure out why the dahl fuel bowl wasnt filling, because there was too much air. So I took my fuel pressure gauge sender off the Y block, and then it started to fill. Between the air, and dead batteries it took an hour to fix that. Here's a couple of pictures

Fuel Bowl delete

Regulator mounted

I also had to install the Dahl 150, that was actually easier than I thought....

Dahl Mounted

I made a nice switch mount also for my chip, i used DP tuner idea for the f-5 gauge mount, and fabbed up my own little mount, since I dont think the f-5 mount will work mith my 4pos switch.


While i had the turbo and pedistal out, I decided to gut out the EBPV, and the EBPV actuator rod, sorry no pictures, I didnt think to snap those. No more oil leaks from there.

I also found out the donut gaskets where leaking in my up-pipes so i fixed that also. While I had the Up-pipes out, I decided to finally move the pyro probe from the downpipe to the up-pipe.

The truck feels alot better now after doing all of this, its awkward to watch my pyro actual move past 900(the first time i seen 1000* i let up, thinking too much heat). On the first drive, I blew an IC boot off the tube, because my WG was not nearly adjusted correctly anymore with the up-pipe fixed. I was hitting 31PSI, so i go home fix that, and then go out for drive 2, I blew another boot off the IC tube, I felt like a newb, but after clamping it down nice and hard, it hasnt blown off since. The truck seems to start quicker, and the injector noise seems to be alot less. It sounds weird now. I still need to paint the Regulator mount, and put some of those wire loom covers over the SS lines, but i ran outta time.

Thanks kris, jeremy, and everyone else who helped me with this project. I couldnt not of done this without the help you all gave me.

 

Glad to hear you got it done, even with some bumps in the road. Switch mount looks pretty cool too.

 

that loks GREAT John,
somone had lots of time on their hands LOL

 

Hey John, it looks great. Good job. You know I kept blowing the IC boots on my truck too. So I did 2 things. #1) I bought new boots and #2) I took a file and put some cross hatching on the end's of the IC pipe. No more blown boots. So far so good!. Take Care now. Country

 

Great work John.

 

The only thing I dont like is how, I had to route the return line from the passenger side head, i had to go around the GPR, since I mocked up the regulator mount b4 I made that line, and found out the two fittings actually hit, so i had to use a longer hose and go around the GPR to make it work. This system needs a bit of work before im 100% happy with the way it looks, but I wanted to have it done for now.

 

I bet you're sore from laying on top of the engine all weekend. If not now wait till tomorrow. Looks great, will be doing my in tanks and prepump filter and aux lift pump in a few weeks.

 

Im really sore for laying on top of that motor, and jumping back down and under the truck, and back on top(the up-pipes were giving me trouble for some reason). I get the bright idea today to ride my dirt bike after doing all that so I am feeling real sore now. My coolant res. im suprised is still attached with me laying on it all weekend. I gotta relocate that thing or make it so im not laying on it.

 

good job john..that looks very nice..

 

To steal from Cowboy Steve - Spray hairspray on the IC pipes before attaching the boots. This will give them a little extra hold.

Nice work. I would leave the ss lines uncovered. Stainless is pretty!!!

 

I dont want it to rub through any wires on top of the motor and short them out. Thats the only reason why Im covering them. The IC boots are stickin now.

 

Agreed, the SS braid does look good, but in addition to the reason John pointed out, there's at least one more. Several years ago, some of the regulated systems out there were using braided SS line. However, in some cases where the lines were rubbing against a hard part, the lines were actually abrading themselves inside the braid. This resulted in hose failures and a leaking fuel - definately not safe. I have talked to at least one guy who this happened to. That's at least one of the reasons the kits you see on the market don't use SS braided line. My SS braided lines are also covered with wire loom where they might rub up against something.

 

What I've been sometimes using for a cover is a large corrugated wire loom. Alternatively, in some cases where the fuel line is not going to move much but will simply rub/vibrate on a hard surface, I've simply used an extra piece of fuel line that I cut to about a one-inch length and split lengthwise, then ziptie this new split "abrasion protector" around the hose in question. It has worked so far for me.

 

Me too, what Pete said. Or sometimes heater hose. But Pete said it first though. I'm just adding to what he said. HAH HAH, Country

 

I'm living on the edge, pushing the envelope, shooting the....well you get the idea. Not only do I have Spectre braiding on my fuel line hoses, I took the convuluterd corrugated or whatever it is called tubing off of my HPOP lines too. I like that look.