I'm still having problems with bumpsteer on my truck. I know the cause is because the draglink bar is not horizonal. I was wondering if anyone knew what the effect was of a shorter pitman arm, say 1 inch shorter as to steering? Has anyone shortened a pitman arm themselves? I've tried to heat the steering arm and bring it down some, but I understand that is forged and heating and bending won't do it. Looks like my only option here is to shorten the pitman arm to get the draglink in a normal position. Any thoughts?

 

A forged steel part will respond well to heat and bend without breaking. However, there are a lot of things to watch for when doing so. If the part is heat treated heating may soften the part or cause hard spots or stress. An oxidizing flame can burn the surface and reduce strenght. Tool marks from bending can cause cracks to form. If shortening the arm involves welding, that can cause many hidden problems also. I am an industrial blacksmith with 27 years on the job. I dont think I would try heating and bending steering parts even for myself without some serious research.

 

Great info... Here's my dilemma. I have quiet a angle on the draglink coming from the steering knuckle to the pitman arm. I don't have an original steering box and the pitman is different from that of the original 56's. I have the original pitman arm but the steering shaft is larger in diameter than the one on my truck. I also noticed that the pitman on my truck is approximately 1.5 inches longer than that of the original arm. That's why I was thinking about shortening it which would raise the draglink to a more normal horizonal angle, thus reducing or eliminating my bump steer. I'm at a loss here. I'm wondering how the previous owner of the drop axle had the steering arms bent in the first place??? I was told they were bent so the adapter for the tie rod wasn't needed with the drop axle, a trick I've read about that the old timers did on their hot rods for years. I may have to have a pitman arm custom made, which I'm really trying to avoid. Thanks for the great info Danny D on the forged steel and all. I was planning on taking my pitman arm to my manufacturing buddy. He shortened my drag link and it came out nice. Was hoping maybe he could do the same on the pitman arm. I'm open to suggestions and recommendations on what to do.

 

If you are going to bend or weld I would try to find out what steel was used to make it. Use a proper filler rod and grind out so you have 100% penetration. Preheat till it smokes a little and post heat to a dull red for about 2" around the weld zone may be a good thing to do. Let it cool slowly, burried in ashes. These are some general suggestions. Just be sure it is done correctly. Try to find others that have done the same thing. Magnafluxing after, and maybe in a few years down the road may also be a good idea. There can be a crack working through a piece of steel for years before it breaks.

 

Seems like I remember an old article I saw a long time ago in Truckin magazine that told how to do it. To to the best of my memory, they said to make V cut and match that to the other side you are splicing.