Video from our trip last weekend

http://s241.photobucket.com/albums/f...onthetrail.flv

I'll post a bunch more pics to my photobucket account

 

looks like a blast. wish i had something to wheel that moved...................

 

DITTO!

trip looked like fun! break anything?

-cutts-

 

I didn't break anything. I can't get my truck to cool though. One guy with a 65 chev broke a front axle shaft

 

Cool vid! I have been wondering what the latest with the truck is. Looks like it does pretty good.

For the cooling, have you gone through the system? Maybe add an engine oil cooler. They can help reduce temps. I would guess that maybe the system just needs some maintenance

 

Here's what I've done on the cooling issue (400 ford from early 70s car):

-new 195 thermostat and waterpump when we put the cam/intake in the engine

-2 different radiators ( I ran the second on my DD 70 crewcab for 4 years with no trouble at all

-electric pusher fan on front of radiator

-new 160* thermostat

-removed thermostat altogether

-another new(rebuilt) waterpump and reinstall 195* thermostat

It's still overheating, even on the road

It seems like this engine is just making more heat than it should

 

cooling an engine is a basic issue of math. It simply has to have enough surface area to exchange heat. How much area is that electric fan covering up? Any area that is covered by a pusher fan is an area that will not cool, and you may have a dead area that is blocking more air than is actually cooling.
How about the engine mounted fan. Is there a shroud there, and is the fan properly located in the shroud? Too deep or not deep enough will create turbulence and limit air flow.These could ba a reason why the vehicle is getting hot while the vehicle is in motion.
Natural air pasing by radiator should be more than sufficient to keep that thing cool, so it is safe to say that there is an air flow problem.
Have you installed a t-stat again? Having no restriction allows the water to flow too quickly, and does not allow it to sit in the radiator long enough to exchange heat properly. Also the removal of inner fenders contribute to some overheating issues. The aerodynamics limit the amount of air that can flow through the radiator.
How confident are you that the cam timing is alright? Did you advance it a couple of degrees, or did you leave it at a factory -4 deg? The truck did not sound as crisp as it could have, and could have a cam that is ground to be used at 0 deg, or even 2 to 4 deg advanced, so if it is installed at -4, it could also explain the extra heat.
Truck is looking good.

 

The pusher fan covers about 2/3 of the rad. I had the same problem before installing it, even on the road.

No shroud on the mech. fan, the body lift moved the rad up by 4"

I did install the T-stat again, I've read about a specific one for 351/400 on here but I only have a Napa replacement, don't know if its right or not.

I've been wondering about the cam timing because it is an early 400 and maybe the chain or cam is for a later one where Ford advanced (or is it retarded) the cam timing from the factory. I know when you work it for a bit the headers get red. We just installed the timing set straight up.

 

does the engine have a problem with coolant loss? Does the lower radiator hose have the spring in it?

 

ah, second time ive done that........................................

 

Looked great.

Over heating problem sucks.... but at least it's still rolling(unlike several people on here including my self at least not in 4wd anyway). Some of that mud looked NASTY.

 

Nope no coolant loss. There is a spring in the bottom hose

 

Red or glowing headers would indicate a lean condition. Very lean condition! Does it detonate!
Sounds like a combination of small problems.

 

what carb and jetting is on this engine?

 

Holley 600cfm, not sure of the jetting

I borrowed it (and the radiator) off the 390 from my other crewcab