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Hi List, I am new to this list. I am sure this question has been posted before but I want to try and ID an engine that I believe is a 390. The casting number on the right side of the block is C6ME-A. The engine assembly date is April 14th 1967. The casting date on the intake manifold is 7C16. So I know the engine is a 1967 vintage. How can I confirm if it is a 390 and not a 360? The engine is in a 1962 Ford F250 4x4 but I know the engine is not original to the truck with all of the casting and assembly dates being from 67. Thanks Dan
You don't. The only true way to tell if it is a 390 is to check the bore and stroke or at least the stroke. A 360 has a 3.50" stroke and a 390 has a 3.78" stroke. Both have a 4.05" bore stock.
The easiest way to do it is take the spark plug out of #1 cyl and bring it up to TDC and then down and measure the stroke with a dowel. if it measures 3.5 then it's a 360 if you get about 3 and 3/4 then you have a 390.
The most accurate way is to use the drill bit test. you can do a search for it or look at other related threads to find the details. The dowel is just easier IMO.
Thanks guys for your reply. Unfortunity the engine is locked up right now. I need to pull the heads anyway so once I get it freed up I will measure the stroke. Later. Dan
You can also just look at the numbers on the crank. 2U and 3U are the more common 390 cranks. And 2T, 2TA are the 360 cranks. IU, IUB and IUA are 428 cranks. There can also be a full casting number if it's an older crank. Many FE cranks.
Thanks, for your reply. I have an old rusty 62 F250 uni-body truck with a 223 6cyl in it and an old very rusty 62 F250 4x4 with what I think is a 390 V8. Both trucks are 4 speeds. I was wanting to take the V8 and swap it into the unibody truck. Might even swap out the 4x4 running gear into the unibody but not sure yet. The 4x4 truck body is completey rusted beyond repair. The unibody is rusty as well but restorable enough to make into my shop truck. thanks Dan
just picked up a 72 F250 with a 360. motor seems to run well but nothing exiting. I was told 390 heads w/4-V would make a huge difference. does anyone think it's worth the hasstle?
just picked up a 72 F250 with a 360. motor seems to run well but nothing exiting. I was told 390 heads w/4-V would make a huge difference. does anyone think it's worth the hasstle?
Heads are the same on the 360 and 390. 72 heads are the D2-AA heads and same as the earlier C8-H heads other than the induction hardened seats. Pre 66 heads are the older lowriser port. No need to swap out the heads really. Maybe a better cam and some headers with the 4v intake.
Don't trust the counterweight shape, just look at the casting numbers. There were dozens of early casting numbers for 390's and 352's (same stroke as the 360) but the later 60's and 70's cranks are easier to Id, 390's had either a 2MA or 3MA crank number. 360 had 2T or 2TA.
So, yesterday my beautiful (learning to be a car guy's wife) bride talked me into checking what the engine is in my '71 F250 4x4 that I just got. So we pulled a plug and she held the dowell in the hole on the piston while I rolled the engine over. From bdc to tdc it measured out to ..............3.7+" of throw. This truck just keeps getting better all the time.
It is a 390 cid FE, I am really excited about this truck now.
My wife is sitting here sewing new drapes for the house while I am writing this and she wants to make sure that all of you know that she is a car girl, she grew up changing her own oil, put a drum brake back together by herself by the side of the road, put in a clutch, and changed the fuel filter on her '99 Ex. All of this took place before I knew her, now I am her mechanic and she is my queen.
I never found the dowel method to be 100% accurate, you could still conceivably have a 3.98" stroke crank in there. So, you let her hold the "rod" while you turned it? Typical guy!! LOL
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