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Having issues with my tail and running lights. The problem started when I was pulling my trailer. The trailer blew the tail light fuse. I replaced it then it blew it again the next day. Found the problem in the trailer (Tail light wire) and fixed it. Now I have a problem with the truck. 1995 f-350 diesel. The headlights, turns, brakes all work normal. The tail lights wont come on. I checked the fuses in the dash they were ok, I checked the fuses under the hood and found a blown Maxi, I replaced it and still nothing. I checked and replaced the relay....nothing. No I have discovered I dont have any power feeding the tail light fuses under the hood. If I use a jumper wire I get power and they work. I guess I will check the head light switch next but the headlight switch turn the heads on. If Im missing anything please shoot me an idea.
I think you are on the right track. The only fuses that can do it are the #D fuse under the hood and the #4 fuse in the dash.
If they are both good then it would be your headlight switch or the plug that plugs into it is bad.
Had a similar problem on my '94 F350 and the problem was that the harness melted by the headlight switch (apparently a known issue - found out about it here) Ford sells a ready-made repair kit that splices into the existing wiring at the switch. Took me all of 20 minutes to make the repair. I'd pull the switch and take a look - 10:1 that's what happened if you've checked everything else out.
I have the same problem with a 95 F-350. Bought a new switch and now I can't figure out how to get to the old one. Started to remove part of the dash, but can't move it out of the way to get to the switch. Talked to a few people and they said to go at it from below. There is a bracket covering the entire area below the switch. The new switch has the button to release the shaft, but I can't even get to the old button.
You just need to remove the plastic cover for the dash - one screw on each side under the plastic trim piece insert... May need to put the truck in neutral to get it over the column. Then the switch is held in on a metal bracket and a set screw on the switch itself. (doing this from memory so my descriptions might be a little off) But I know I used nothing more than a small screwdriver/nut driver (1/4" or 9/32") to do the whole thing...
I have that piece loose but can't move it very far because of the light ****. The **** does not come lose right. You have to push a little button located back on the switch itself to release the shaft and ****, and I can't get to the button.
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