Sorry, another Question
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,328
Likes: 0
From: Capac MI
Sorry, another Question
Subject is exhaust, again. Only im not going with headers. I had a bit of an ordeal with a broken bolt. It was the thermostat housing and after it was all said and done it took a 10 minute job and 5 dollars to a 1 day job and about 70 bucks later. So with me needing my truck im going to go different on my exhaust. The way my exhaust is set up is its a 351, two pipes to the O2 senser and a cat? For some reason this cat is really small or is it a resonater? Should i remove that or leave it? Then i have the big cat and thats going to come off. I want to take and put the muffler where the big cat was inbetween the cross member and just have the rest of the exhaust run right before the rear tire. Anyone have any other ideas?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
i would talk to an exhaust shop personally. and dont go to the chain shops either. they will rip ya. emissions will require you to have the cat on there, you would be better off cutting the pipe right behind the cat. then shuving a broom handle up there and busting up all the guts and then starting the bronco to blow it all out. then just get a muffler installed a bit after that and have the pipe run in front of the tire. the bummer with that though is the exhaust pipe will now be going under the frame and be sitting out waiting to be damaged while going offroad.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 1
From: sunny fla sometimes windy
I heard the ticket for removing emissions crap(cat,air pump,etc) is $1700.00 I found that out after I cut mine off, Go with what kem says and gut it and take that honeycomb to the recycler (platinum, rhodium) Cha ching!!! If you are looking for torque go with long skinny pipe out the back. If you want higher rpm power short, fat tube or duals!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,328
Likes: 0
From: Capac MI
I went with getting rid of it all, new Y pipe made to the 40 series and 2 and a half after the muffler to the stock location. The exhaust shop didnt get it done today so hopefully it will be done tomorrow, i was just hopping i would have enough backpressure with the way that i went.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,328
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From: Capac MI
I got the system done, I got rid of both cats to a 2 1/2 pipe and a 40 series flowmaster and then 2 1/2 all the way. The truck ran really smooth no more jitter at an idle. I was on my way home with it and the check engine light came on, So i stoped and shut it off. Started it back up and no more light, so i went on my way and about 3 miles down the road the light came back on, so i kept on driving and there was no difference in the way it ran it was still running smooth. I came home and looked under there and my O2 sensor was unpluged, So i pluged it back in and its got a little jitter again, no light on. So whats this indicate? My O2 sensors bad?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
pull codes. did they move the o2 sensors original location in the exhaust by chance? disconnect the battery and let it sit for awhile. then hook it back up and drive it to see if the computer relearns
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,328
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From: Capac MI
its in the stock location it was just unplugged. i pluged it back in and ran her around the block a couple of times and no light, its still got the jitter, but im wondering what would happen if i left it unplugged and still drove it around even with the check engine light? It ran really smooth
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,328
Likes: 0
From: Capac MI
YUMMY il think im gonna get a new O2 sensor. I already ran codes and nothing, the only reason why my engine light came on was because it was unplugged. Il think il have to get a 46 dollar sensor now. Those things arnt cheep!