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Welding question

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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 03:29 PM
  #16  
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Rods

These are canadian arc welding rods, where can I get them in the US. I am skeptical about welding cast iron, the above entries concerning preheating and cooling are the usual repair practices. This is a massive, thick casting.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 05:04 PM
  #17  
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From: The Real O.C.
I hate to piggy back this thread but it seems to fit.

I'm going back to college, after graduating four years ago, and taking welding and fabrication. It's two nights a week 4 hour classes. They are going to cover MIG, TIG, and fabrication in about 4 months.

Any tips, tricks, or pointers? Am I going to learn as much as I want. My goal is to find a job in a classic car shop. And I don't want to be like that girl in Hard Shine. She really pissed me off ...
 
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ilovegamesandcars
I hate to piggy back this thread but it seems to fit.

I'm going back to college, after graduating four years ago, and taking welding and fabrication. It's two nights a week 4 hour classes. They are going to cover MIG, TIG, and fabrication in about 4 months.

Any tips, tricks, or pointers? Am I going to learn as much as I want. My goal is to find a job in a classic car shop. And I don't want to be like that girl in Hard Shine. She really pissed me off ...
My advice is, Protect Yourself! My son has taken the classes and now does P/T work in a general repair and muffler/custom header shop. He got flash burn on his eyes last week, was in agony. MIG fumes are bad for your brain and nervous system. Welding constantly is not a real good job for your health.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 06:28 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ilovegamesandcars
I hate to piggy back this thread but it seems to fit.

I'm going back to college, after graduating four years ago, and taking welding and fabrication. It's two nights a week 4 hour classes. They are going to cover MIG, TIG, and fabrication in about 4 months.

Any tips, tricks, or pointers? Am I going to learn as much as I want. My goal is to find a job in a classic car shop. And I don't want to be like that girl in Hard Shine. She really pissed me off ...
So where are you going to college? There are some local JC's in the San Diego area that have what appear to be outstanding courses in fabrication...I say appear to be because I can't get near one! I guess that there are more than enough high school kids wanting this course that there's no room for adults. Good luck.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 06:44 PM
  #20  
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i also have had good luck with pre heating and post heating (with my torch) and using a hi-nickle rod. also i had a friend weld some cast to mild steel tubing for me a few weeks back and he used Tig, with a special wire..........

fact is, it's easy to weld.......... problem is cooling, the casting cracks because the weld puddle shrinks more that the casting can.............



if your learning to weld, ask questions........lots
an nice autodark helmet with variable shade settings will make it easier to see what your doing.
its easy to stick to pieces of metal together, but there are many proccesses and techniques that take years to master, i consider it an artform myself. (i'm still learning..................)
 
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 07:51 PM
  #21  
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I posted a pic of my crack in my gallery.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 07:57 PM
  #22  
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If I'm interpreting the orientation of the trans correctly, that crack is from the top shifter cover down towards the mainshaft area? If so, throw it away. I don't think that is from freezing, there wouldn't be water up there. I'd bet on something getting between two gears (first/rev) or some other abuse. Does the crack go down to the mainshaft or countershaft hole?
 
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 05:32 AM
  #23  
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JB Weld.
Looks almost like three cracks.
Grind the out and fill the with JB, don't have to worry about the heating/cooling stuff.
JB to the Rescue, Go JB, Go JB.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 05:37 AM
  #24  
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gross

Originally Posted by john fin
I posted a pic of my crack in my gallery.
you are one disgusting Sicko!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 09:42 AM
  #25  
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The crack on on the bottom front face between the bellhousing(notice bolts) and the trans. About an inch or so up so water could very well have been in there. I actually think the access cover on the side would hold it together and keep it from falling apart BUT I need to seal it to keep the oil in.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 10:43 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by john fin
I posted a pic of my crack in my gallery.
Originally Posted by greythorn3
you are one disgusting Sicko!
 

Last edited by TheWiz427; Sep 5, 2007 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 10:44 AM
  #27  
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Ooops double post.....sorry.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 01:06 PM
  #28  
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I had a huge vaned vacuum pump once that sucked a stainless steel bolt, and cracked the housing inside to out, where the vanes ran. Used JB Weld, ground and polished the inside, and it worked great, and was still working when I left the company, 3 years later. It really is amazing what JB Weld will do! There was a LOT of pressure on that housing.

R

Originally Posted by 4tl8ford
DARN, Foiled again.
I wanted to see what would happen with the JB Weld.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 05:29 PM
  #29  
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You see all sorts of claims for stuff. Its always difficult to sort out the good from the not so good unless you know smeone who has actually used the stuff as you want to.
I know JB Weld will do lots of things, I've used it for emergency repairs in lots of situations including HAZMAT.
I've yet to see JB Weld used on a cracked block, tranny, or rearend where there is a lot of torque, vibration, heat, oil and what ever.
Thats why I suggested Jon Finn try it on his tranny, if it worked OK, if it didn't, it wasn't my tranny
 
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