Hi guys. I am getting ready to pull the engine from my truck to change the clutch and change the rear main seal. The engine runs great but leaks and is a two barrel.
Question #1--I want a four barrel. I have an Old Holley Street Dominator single plane...This truck is a four speed. Should I use it? Why or why not?
#2-Carb. for this engine.??
#3 Camshaft selection?

Let me explain what I want to do. I just want it to not run out of steam at 3500 rpm. I recognize the torque v. hp theory. I don't want to lose all my low end, but I would like more top end as well. Can I do this with a simple cam change, this Holley intake and a carburetor ? I have run every type of carburetor in the past and am not particularly fond of one or another. The Demon carb looks like a Holley from here. Any thoughts on this carb? I was thinking a 625 cfm and a mild cam. I plan to reseal the engine and put in a high volume pump while I am at it. Thanks alot, bryan

 

From what I hear the street dominator isn't that great of an intake. You will get a better average HP with a dual plane and more low end TQ. Of course you probably don't want to shell out 290 bucks for an RPM. I would give it a try. Use any four barrel you prefer. The demons are holleys but seem to be improved at a cost of course. I would run the 343901 crane or the 343801 if you want one a little hotter. The 901 should pull hard up to at least 4,500 and the 801 to 5,250. Be sure to get the recommended springs. As for the rear main seal leak, make sure its not your rear intake gasket leaking down. Would hate to see you go through all that trouble over a much more simple fix. 625 cfm should be fine as would a 650. The engine is going to be kind of mismatched with that intake but should work. I never understood the small single plane intakes myself. I think single planes should all be comarable to the victor and intended for race use only.

 

mix match? not a problem!I got stuff from 6 different 390's on
one of my engines, and the carb came from a unsmogged car 390
so that was a trick to get on but it works...very well.


Fe power

 

Clean the engine. Locate any oil leaks. Repair the clutch with the engine in the truck. Replace the rear main seal (if that is what is leaking), and install a high volumn pump and ARP drive quill. Save the carburetor and camshaft budsiness until you can afford an overhaul. Take a peek at the rear main bearing when you do the seal and decide if it is worn enough to warrent a overhaul or not. Basically if the truck runs and has good compression and doesn't use buckets of oil leave it alone.
William in Atlanta

 

The compression is fine. It uses no oil and is very quiet. It leaks oil though. Would it be somewhat easy to change the rear main while the motor is in the truck? Particularly if the transmission is out? thanks,bryan

 

Much easier to change the rear main seal with the transmission out and the flywheel off. Changing the oil pump and installing an ARP quill shaft is also reasonably easy and you should do both at the same time. Check for wear on the timing chain and front timing chain cover seal. I oil the rear main side seals and then cool them in the refrigerator for a few hours. Do that first so they get cold while you are working on the rear main seal and main bearing cap. Getting the rear main cap off is a real PITA! Have patience. Then clean it with steel wool and emory paper. I use a razor blade and acetone to get the Ford sealer off the side of the cap. Clean the crank shaft seal surface with a tooth brush and acetone. Don't polish it. Oil the crank seal and install it offset from the cap/block mating surface about 3/16th inch. Don't gob sealer all over, it will cause leaks. Push the main cap on leaving it out about ¼ to 1/8th inch. Slip in the side seals, (be sure the side seals bottom against the block), seat the cap with a wood or plastic mallet and torque it to about 50fp, drive in the nails. I flatten the tips of the nails a bit and bend them towards the main cap and file the back side a little. Oil the nails. Then as I drive them in they do not pull the side seals down in the bore (they should be cold and stiff). Trim any excess and add a bit of sealer to the trimmed ends. Torque the main bearing cap to 95-105 FP.
William in Atlanta