Got a 98, 120K, 4x4, 4.6 w/5 spd manual. The shift lever has been periodically hard to engage so I would check the clutch resivor and it would be low, so i'd add some fuild and all would be fine. Today I decided to bleed the clutch at the bleeder on the tranny...first black, then clear but always air. After 2 quarts of dot 3 I gave up, still bubbling air. Clutch sucks now, I can just get it to engage 1st if I pump it several times. What am I doing wrong?

 

sounds like the slave cylinder is shot. you need to remove trans to change. might as well do clutch plate etc while you are in there.

 

Whats the tell-tale sign that its the slave?...and for that matter where is it? (the slave)
Thanks

 

telltale sign is the leaking fluid. the slave cylinder is inside the trans so it has to be removed to rplace. I had mine done last year and it cost 1200 can (included new plate etc and all labour.

 

It's the cylinder in the bellhousing that actuates the pressure plate when you push in the pedal. It too the place of the good ole throwout bearing fork.

 

These hydraulic clutches are self adjusting, over 120K it is normal for the level to go down gradually. If you suspect the rate is beyond clutch wear, you need to find the leak.

Normally a bad clutch slave will leak fluid, look for tell tale signs of the leakage at the bottom of the bell housing, where it would drain out.

Clutch master cylinders going bad sometimes pump air before they leak past secondary seals. Look for leaks where the pedal's actuator shaft enters the clutch master & between the reservoir & cylinder.

How did you bleed it, pump pedal or pressure? Can we presume its all original parts w/120K, urban or rural? Has the fluid been changed since '98?

 

Alberta46 & LxMan1,

I cant find the leaking fluid AKA "the leak". (except the slow lowering fluid level in the MC reservoir) What I do have, is plenty of air, and I can't bleed it out.

Now my pedal has almost no resistance, and I have to pump it several times just to get it to allow me to engage 1st gear. Alberta46, where was your fluid leaking from?

 

Club Wagon, thanks for your help

There's no leak at the bottom of the bell housing exterior, however, there's a removable rubber peek-hole cover on the drivers side, I can see there's some wetness inside the housing (on the clutch plate and disc near the center axle) Its dark & hard to see amongst the black dust. Would there be fluid pooling at the bottom of the bell housing, inside? I may be able to dip a rod or something inside the peek-hole to see if fluid is there.

I will look for leaks round the clutch master cylinder and keep my fingers crossed. ( MC cylinder replacement, seems far easier than slave)

Answer: Bleed style: wife pumping pedal, me underneath working bleeder
Answer: All OEM parts with 120K & original owner.
Answer: Rural driving, first ever fluid change

 

mine was leaking right at the bottom of the bell housing. There is a small hole there and fluid was leaking there. There was not much leaking at all just the odd drip here and there till it got so bad I was filling up the master every 3 days.

 

Not exceptional, but a fair amount of life out of the clutch hydraulics. Sounds like you might be seeing normal clutch wear & very little leaking. Would you say you're easy on clutches? Try to pin down if the wetness inside the bell housing is brake fluid, tranny or motor oil, presumably not antifreeze. Any quantity of liquid is going to want to pool & drain out the bottom. Also try to inspect the clutch wear, may be time for a new one anyway & if you have to drop the tranny-a must do.

I have used homemade miniature 12V 'trouble lights' for years-all you need is a length of lamp cord to solder onto 12V bulb's contacts & 2 gator clips. You can place such a tiny light inside tight places, like the bellhousing & really illuminate things.

Of course the clutch master is much easier to R&R. I've seen clutch masters that are tough to bleed by the pedal & others that bleed by gravity if you're patient. My fav is pressure bleeding, although vacuum bleeding may be better. I use an old bicycle hand pump w/short hose & a threaded brass truck valve stem that's on a 2" rubber 'plug'. This 'plug' is big enough to cover most reservoir openings. All I do is fill, open the bleed screw, press the 'plug' down tight by hand & pump, forcing the fluid thru & air out. The idea is to keep pressure up long enough to force fresh fluid thru. I've also used the 'plug' with 5 PSI compressed air, but CAUTION, only use 5 PSI-avoid a mess. Once you know for certain you've bled all the air out, any new air getting in is most likely from failure of clutch master seal.

 

Club Wagon, Alberta46 & LxMan1,

Whats the chances that the air (that wont bleed out) is coming from the Master C and not the Slave C? Any indicators?

I can get a MC for under $100. and I can install myself. The Clutch Slave is a whole other ballgame. I'd probably have to shop it.

 

Possible. I have an 88 that I'm getting ready to swap master cylinders on because it seems to barely push fluid and when you push down on the clutch, it will not come back up.

I'm going to try to swap it out tomorrow.

 

Club Wagon, Alberta46 & LxMan1,

My AZone store lets you use their vacuum/pumps no charge. You think I may get better results kicking my wife off the job and just vacuuming the system at the slave bleeder. If so, any advice?