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<TABLE class=tborder id=post1215358 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=5 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD class=alt2 width=175></TD><TD class=alt1 id=td_post_1215358><!-- icon and title --><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Question about brakes?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
<HR style="COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I need some help. I have an f250 4x4 PSD and I've had lots of brake issues. When I first got it the front rotors warped in about two month. I was not towing or riding te brakes. The dealer turned the rotors and said I'd be allset. After about three more incidents with the rotors watping in the same time frame the dealer replaced the front rotors and inspected the rest of the system. Again it's allset and you won't have any more issues. Since the rotor replacement it's happened another three times. The last time they claimed a retainer clip had fell off and held the pad to the rotor. I notice no symtoms of this however. I asked if it was possible that the rears were not working and that was causing the front brake to do all the work. The dealer simply dismeissed it and said I'd be allset. Well it's been another few months and the brakes are pusing again. I want to have my information together when I call them on Tuesday so I thought I'd ask here for advice. I should mention that my esp has covered some of these brake repairs but there's a $100 deductable I've paid a few times.
If the wheels are over torqued, then that could cause brake problems. The torque specs are 150-165 ft/lbs.
Also...it could be the brake slide pins. If they are not properly lubed...or rusted out, then that could cause the pulsations you are feeling. Anytime the brakes are worked on...the brake slide pins should be serviced.
Last...is the dealership is not properly "setting" in your brakes. This is when the brake rotor and brake pad need to be set in with a few hard braking and cooled in between the runs.
i ALSO HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT BRAKES. I HAVE A 2000 7.3, 4wd, SRW, auto, super cab, 158,000. I also tow a trailer (4 horse living quarters weighs around 18,000 and change. I have put the Firestone ride rite airbags on it as well as AIS and gauges it is not chipped yet but will be eventually from DP. MY QUESTION IS BRAKES. I have read several threads through oout this forum. ROTORS- is power slot cyro better than non-cryo power slot-are they better than Art cyro or non cryo? Are power slots cyro better than Wagner. Wagners are available here for $59.00 a piece. Yeah they are lifetime guaranteed--against manufactures defects and no this does NOT include warping. I am Okay with spending the $800.00 to do all 4 wheels with the Power Slot Cryo and Hawk pads if it is better than lets say the Wagners for $380 to $400. I have already bought the new sliders from Ford for the front rotors.
It's an auto with 42k on it. I need to know how I can troubleshoot these brakes so I can make an educated decision. I haven't been towing but the whole reason I bought this truck was to tow. I'm planning on buying a fifth wheel soon and I'm scaried the brakes are going to let me down. I really need a solution to this issue and fast. I have a prodigy brake controller as well so when I tow it's properly adjusted. But I haven't towed anythings since the last time this happened. I don't know very much about working on trucks and I no even less about brakes. Could it be that the rears aren't working and thats causing the fronts to overheat an warp?