Replacing ball joints wasn't easy.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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Replacing ball joints wasn't easy.
I just replaced the balljoints on the right side of my 1997 4X4 F250 Heavy Duty. Man what a job! I'm going to take a break before taking on the left side.
Everything was difficult to get apart including removing the spindal. It was frozen inside the steering knuckle which prevented me from taking other things apart. I had to cut the bottom balljoint nut off with torches in order to get some movement of parts and access to the back of the spindal.
After working almost all day trying to get things apart under the truck finally gave up and removed the front carrier and pulled the entire right side of the front drive train out where I could get at it easier.
It took a lot of hammering force to drive the spindle out of the steering knuckle. I had access to a press but there was no way to use it in what I was dealing with. While I had everything apart I replaced the rubber support bushing where the front carrier bolts to the frame. I cleaned, inspected and repacked all the bearings inside the spindle, drive/axle shaft and wheel bearings with Hi-temp grease. I replaced all the oil seals on the spindal, drive/axle shaft and wheel bearings.
I purchased new balljoints with zerk fittings. I found the 90 degree elbow zerk fitting could not be left in the upper balljoint because the front axle U-joint would hit it when it rotated. I went to Napa Auto and found a short radius 90 degree elbow zerk fitting and after installing it I now have about 1/8 inch clearance.
Now, I wish I could afford to pay someone to do the left side.
Jack
Everything was difficult to get apart including removing the spindal. It was frozen inside the steering knuckle which prevented me from taking other things apart. I had to cut the bottom balljoint nut off with torches in order to get some movement of parts and access to the back of the spindal.
After working almost all day trying to get things apart under the truck finally gave up and removed the front carrier and pulled the entire right side of the front drive train out where I could get at it easier.
It took a lot of hammering force to drive the spindle out of the steering knuckle. I had access to a press but there was no way to use it in what I was dealing with. While I had everything apart I replaced the rubber support bushing where the front carrier bolts to the frame. I cleaned, inspected and repacked all the bearings inside the spindle, drive/axle shaft and wheel bearings with Hi-temp grease. I replaced all the oil seals on the spindal, drive/axle shaft and wheel bearings.
I purchased new balljoints with zerk fittings. I found the 90 degree elbow zerk fitting could not be left in the upper balljoint because the front axle U-joint would hit it when it rotated. I went to Napa Auto and found a short radius 90 degree elbow zerk fitting and after installing it I now have about 1/8 inch clearance.
Now, I wish I could afford to pay someone to do the left side.
Jack
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 332
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Is a 1997 model like a Super Duty?
This is from Racerguy's most excellent instructions ......
I was lucky on my 2002 .... I was able to muscle it off.
The zerk fitting I got from NAPA hit also ..... I was able to grind down the fitting just a bit, and it worked.
Good luck.
This is from Racerguy's most excellent instructions ......
10) Remove the 4 nuts that attach the wheel bearing/hub assembly to the knuckle and remove it. There are a few ways to remove the wheel bearing/hub assembly. You might try using a long punch and hitting the studs from behind (make sure you have new studs first), you might be able to pound a thin chisel in between the assembly and the knuckle to break it free, you might be able to use a 3 jaw puller pushing against the axle or you can reinstall the wheel and hit the back of the tire with a sledge hammer. It can be pretty hard to remove but it will come off.
The zerk fitting I got from NAPA hit also ..... I was able to grind down the fitting just a bit, and it worked.
Good luck.
