Just starting the "mother earth" tune up on the recently acquired 68 Ranger - 390. Drained the oil, the PO must have had straight 30 weight in it - thick stuff. New 5W30 and filter - check. The cable on the negative post to the block was a POS, as was the cable from the positive side to the starter relay - got those replaced - check. New air filter. New Autolite 45's - at least the PO used decent plugs, pulled Autolite 45's out. The condition of the plugs was outstanding. No oil fouling, nice and dry, light tan color. Amazing for an engine with 177k miles on it.

I've got a filter for the fuel pump but I'm having trouble unscrewing the filter housing from the fuel pump though. Any experiences with that?

I've got to get the new thermostat (195) in, replace all the heater hoses, including re-routing the coolant through the carb spacer. I have a Pertronix Ignitor coming from ebay, and a new flat distributor cap, with appropriate rotor and spacer waiting for it. I still need some 8mm wires. When the Ignitor gets here, I'll install all that stuff.

I can already tell a difference in how she starts and runs, I can hardly wait to see how good she can be when I get all the rest of this stuff done. Then I can tackle the carb rebuild......

 

That fuel filter thing has happened to me each time
I do the first change on each of my trucks.A pipe
wrench fixed that! Just a thought but isn't 5-30 a bit
of a light oil for one of these engines unless it's a
major cold area? If there's a 2 barrel on it for a carb,you
could rebuild that for cheap, or get a rebuilt 2 barrel for a 69 fairlane
390 which is bigger and meaner but also cheap,and ya jes
slap'em on and go :-)

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-Dec-02 AT 11:07 PM (EST)]>That fuel filter thing has happened to me each time
>I do the first change on each of my trucks.A pipe
>wrench fixed that! Just a thought but isn't 5-30 a bit
>of a light oil for one of these engines unless it's a
>major cold area? If there's a 2 barrel on it for a carb,you
>could rebuild that for cheap, or get a rebuilt 2 barrel for
>a 69 fairlane
>390 which is bigger and meaner but also cheap,and ya jes
>slap'em on and go :-)

I'll have to try the pipe wrench - it doesn't crush the cannister, does it? As to the oil, I run it in my 89, and in our other vehicles as well. I like the way it flows in the cold here in Iowa, but I run it all year round. I think the modern multi-weight oils can lubricate these old engines just fine.. I do run 6 quarts, and I do change it every 3000 miles.


As to the carb, what is the difference between the Autolite 2100 (I think it's the 2100, it's missing the tag, but it's a 2 barrel with manual choke, and it says Autolite on it) - and the one for a 69 Fairlane.

 

dittos on the oil being lite, these engines were designed to use straight 30W. I have poured many gallons on 10W40 in my Fords over the years, and wouldn't go lower than 10W30. There seems to be a craze toward 20W50,I stay away from that too. Just my 2
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

> Drained the oil, the PO must have
>had straight 30 weight in it - thick stuff. New 5W30 and
>filter - check.

There's usually a lively discussion about oil and filters on the lubrication forum. If you don't mind some advice meant to be helpful, I'd recommend MotorCraft oil and filters (check out WalMart). Please don't use Fram oil filters. Since you change oil every 3k, I wouldn't recommend the serious synthetic oils, they're too expensive ($17.88 for 5 quarts of Mobil 1 at WalMart). I'd be watching for lifter noise with 5W-30. If there is none, then you're good to go. If the lifters are noisy, I'd try 10W-30.

>New Autolite 45's - at least the PO used decent
>plugs, pulled Autolite 45's out. The condition of the plugs
>was outstanding. No oil fouling, nice and dry, light tan
>color. Amazing for an engine with 177k miles on it.

I've had good results with those extended tip plugs.

>I've got a filter for the fuel pump but I'm having trouble
>unscrewing the filter housing from the fuel pump though.
>Any experiences with that?

Not with a 390 per se, but I'd use one of those strap wrenches to get that little monkey off.

 

To get that fuel filter canister off, try using a small strap wrench. It will put more even pressure on the aluminum canister.
Sounds like you're coming along well with your truck.
Enjoy the ride!

 

I might be persuaded that the oil might be a little light, but right now it's not getting driven, it's sitting in the garage getting worked on. In the original owner's manual that I bought on ebay, the oil specs for multi viscosity oils are
-10 to +32 5w30
-10 to +90 10w30
0 to +90 10w40
+32 to +90 20w40

for single viscosity, the specs are
-10 to +32 10W
+10 to +32 20W (it actually says 20w20, I think it's a misprint)
+32 to +90 30W
above 90 40W

I'll keep an ear open for lifter noise.

I actually bought a little strap wrench today while I was at Northern Tool, it was in the bargain bin for $2, but I spent most of the day fighting a thermostat gasket....

I read a lot about oil filters on the web. There's some guy that spends a lot of time buying filters and cutting them in half to see how they are constructed, and reporting on which ones are made by the same company,etc. Since doing that research, I use Purolator filters. No more Fram anything. I almost bought one of their SureDrains today, but I overheard some guy at the counter wanting his money back for two of them since they had leaked. I don't use synthetic. Even if it can go significantly longer without breaking down, I worry about contaminants. Crud getting in through the air filter, and normal wear stuff floating around, recirculating, clogging the oil filter, etc. Plus, it gives me a reason to crawl under the vehicles to do a cursory inspection more often.

I lied about my carb saying Autolite - is says Motorcraft - no idea what the model is..

 

I run 15W50 synthetic. But if it were dyno oil I would not go over 10W40. I feel that with the amount of pressure/volume I have 20W50 is just wasting power pumping it all through. I am seriously considering 10W40 synthetic and will probably change when I get out of korea. Of course local temps are a factor.

 

PWard76, did the strap-wrench purchase work on the fuel filter canister? I'm fighting this myself.

 

>PWard76, did the strap-wrench purchase work on the fuel
>filter canister? I'm fighting this myself.

I haven't tried it yet Leland. I've been busy scraping the underside, trying to get it clean so I can better see where my remaining leaks are. I may get some time this weekend to try it, but I still have my seeping thermostat gasket to deal with as well. I will let you know how it goes, if you will do the same - we'll see who gets 'er done first!

 

Carb or brake cleaner works wonders on the grime and grease removal. Just so you know it will possibly eat the paint.

 

The oil is a little light, use heavier oil in this old timer

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Dec-02 AT 10:50 AM (EST)]This is how I handle those peskey t-stat gaskets. Take the housing of and clean off the old gasket, Put 2 small dabs of Hi-temp RTV on the housing where the new t-stat sits, Put the new t-stat in the housing and let it sit for 5 min. The 2 small dabs of RTV will hold it when they dry a bit. Next I put a THIN ring of Rtv on both sides of the gasket and install the housing and t-stat. Hope this helps, Mine never leaks. P.S. I run 10-30 in mine...but its free CAT oil, How can I not put it in?:7

 

Thanks, guys.

I'm gonna do the "little dab will do ya" trick on the housing seat. I did put rtv on the manifold side of the gasket, the other side has an adhesive on it to stick it to the water outlet...I'll ask for one with no "stick-um" on it next time.

 

>>PWard76, did the strap-wrench purchase work on the fuel
>>filter canister? I'm fighting this myself.
>
>I haven't tried it yet Leland. I've been busy scraping the
>underside, trying to get it clean so I can better see where
>my remaining leaks are. I may get some time this weekend to
>try it, but I still have my seeping thermostat gasket to
>deal with as well. I will let you know how it goes, if you
>will do the same - we'll see who gets 'er done first!


Well, Leland, I got my thermostat housing to quit leaking. I replaced it - it was cracked. I looked all over town trying to find one that wasn't made in China. Finally found one at O'Reilly's, but it had a scratch in the mounting face that made me nervous, went to another O'Reilly's, go the same part number, this one was made in China! Went back and got the first one, used RTV blue on both sides of the gasket, and actually used my torque wrench to apply the right amount of pressure. That took care of it.

I tried the little strap wrench on the fuel filter canister - ended up using the pipe wrench. By the way, be ready with a bucket to catch the fuel that will continue to flow after you have removed the canister.....