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hey guys. I have a question and i kinda need a some what definate answer like qucik. a budy of my dads has a c2ae block. just the block. it looks like it has sat outside for a while. I can get it for 10 bucks. should i waste the time and 10 bucks and get it and have it checked out? if the answer is yes, what are the required steps that need to be taken to find out if this block is useable. also, if it checks out, what rods ,crank, heads do you suggest i use? also, i have neard reference to 113 heads. what are these? cant seem to find out what they are.
C2AE is a realitively desirable casting. Take the block to a machine shop and have it sonic checked. Should be about $20-30. Tell them NOT to burn it out, just dip and sonic. Have lost heads to burn out.
What do you want the engine to do? Street performance build I am doing has 312 crank and rods, 3.830 bore and forged aluminum pistons using G heads.
113 heads are posted and desirable especially on higher compression and/or super charged engines. Had I found 113s soon enough I would have used them but had the G heads and can shave the domed pistons to get the desired compression ratio.
what do you mean by "burn it out". inorder for them to dip it, do I have to have the cam and lifters out? what kinda prep needs to be done for them to dip it and sonic check it? what is sonic testing by the way. is that like a e-xray for metal?????? also, what is core shift. i have seen it refered to several times but dont know what it means.
Last edited by 64fordf100292; Sep 1, 2007 at 02:17 PM.
My opinion: Dont mess with the block without maincaps. Mainly out of curiosity, I tried fitting some main caps from one junk block to another. They were off enough that the bolts wouldnt thread.
I agree w/ 46, I would not go accross the street to pickup a free block if the caps were not with it. I have paid up to $100 for a basic engine (more if had something else like a power steering pump and brackets or a tranny) to salvage parts. Found cracked heads, bad cranks, mismatched heads, trashed distributors, ears broken off the block where clutch part mounts, etc. but not all on one complete engine so usually get enough to be worth the money, time and labor to pick it up, disassemble, clean, inspect, sonic check and paint.
Sonic check will identify cracks. Yes the cam and lifters must be removed (5 minute job). Core shift means the bores are not exactly centered in the casting. Too much core shift and too much over bore and you will get into the water jacket or be thin somewhere which can result in future failure.
Yes. It always makes me frown when someone puts a set of main caps on ebay for sale. Also you dont want to mix caps up. #1 cap stays on number 1 main. Maybe someone can say how much correction can be accormplished with line boring, but most likely wouldnt be a good remedy for mismatched partts.
You may have a use for that block, for such things as mockups, painting platform for heads, valley etc. I keep a junker on a stand. After throwing 2 or 3 away, there was always a need for one for one or another reasons. Maybe practicec on cam bearing installation? Seems like a runnout check could be done on a crank with a couple correct sized used bearings on each end, if V blocks werent available. Does anyone have a set of .010 undersize bearings that are used but not chewed up?
It is interesting to have a head mounted on the block, with nothing else inside and turn the motor upside down. Looks like the valves, at least on a 113, extend beyond the bore perimeter. Need to look at that again.
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