I am in the market for an F-1 pickup to restore. I am in the south and going to look at a 53 today for $1k. I have seen the pictures but they are not too clear. I also did find a 50 in the west that looks like it has allot less condition issues for $2k. I know 53 is the first year of a new body style and last year of the flat head, but the condition has me thinking. Any thought's I'm new to the older trucks. Also both truck are pretty much complete with engines and trans.

 

The less rust and body work the truck needs the better.

 

That's what I'm thinking too. I just thinking the 53 maybe be worth more after it's finished and worth the extra work.

 

From what I have seen trucks of these vintage sell for about the same price if they are restored to the same condition. Year depends who is looking I like the 1948 - 1950 if I saw the 1953 I would just walk by unless it was cheap enough to catch my interest.

 

The F100 (53-56) is definitely a more popular body style than the F1 (48-52) with the masses, but "worth" is in the eye of the one holding the pocketbook.
None of us picked our trucks based on what it would be worth when completed, since that would imply we were building it to sell when finished. Unless you are a "name" builder building under a commission the finished truck will never be "worth" the time and parts you put into it, building these trucks is a labor of love, not an occupation. That said IMHO you should pick the truck that most appeals to you personally, buying based on what might appeal to others is a sure way to lose interest in the project part way thru when you hit that wall that we all do when it seems like it will never be finished. Being "in love" with your truck will help get you past those slow points.
As far as what makes the most sense when faced with a choice between trucks in different condition at different prices, always buy the one with the best sheet metal you can afford. Bodywork is by far the most expensive and time consuming part (unless you are planning on building a "rat rod") of any build. Don't place any worth on mechanical parts that you will be replacing, the stock drive train has no value if you are planning on an engine swap, even a late model engine of a brand you definitely cannot live with has no value.
The hard facts are that it takes ~$20-25K to build a finished hotrod from scratch if you can do the major amount of the work yourself. (I know that's going to get a lot of response!) So you can spend 1K for a beater/basketcase and 19K fixing it or you can buy a excellent solid body and chassis (and possibly a satisfactory drive train) for 8-12K then spend 8K finishing it up, the end results are the same, but in the latter case you will be finished and enjoying it years sooner. That's my opionion YMMV.

 

The '53 has a lot going for it. It is the last year for the flathead V8, 50th anniversary of the Ford Motor Co., first year for the "new body style" and the reproduction body parts available far surpass that of the "Bonus Built" series.
The worst rust out area is the front cab corner and floor board were the cab is bolted to the frame. If it is rusted badly in this area I would seek another truck.

 

With the benefit of 20-20 hindsight, I think most would agree with AX. If I were starting over, I would go '53-on purely because the drivetrain is easier to deal with (transmissions especially) and vendor support is much better. I would also shop for a truck in the $3k - $5k range that was already on the road and needed less work. What to look for depends on too many things to list here, for instance whether you want stock or rod'd.

 

Thanks for the reply's. I have restored 2 cars in the past. I wll being doing almost all the work myself. I will restore the truck back stock no hot-rod. The engine and drivetrain are the easy part for sure. I just thought the 53 might me easier to get the parts since they seem to support this model a little more. I know the 50 model out west is in better shape just from the pic's that I saw. i just will have to see the 53 today and see what I think. I know the floor board in pretty good, front fenders, and passenger door are bad. The guy said he would give a good set of fenders and a door. The cab is good and bed is iffy. The truck does run which the last owner said. I was told 1k takes it home on a trailer. I report my findings. As a side note he does have a 47 f-2 no bed good cab not running for 1k also.

 

vwman
Good luck and make absolutely sure that the area at the front cab mount/ door pillar area is rust free. I made a mistake when I bought my '53 by not checking this area more closely, as the P.O. had covered the rust out with tin but had not repaired it.

 

I took a look at the 53 this today. It had way too much rust in the cab passenger side rocker was almost gone and hood was no good either. The bed was pretty much shot also. All the glass was no good. To sum it up too much sheet metal work. I think I'll keep looking.

 

Another thing to keep in mind...the cost of extensive rust repairs will easily exceed what it would have cost to ship a rust free truck across the country from the rust free soutwest. Places like Dependable Auto Shippers will charge about $1,000 to ship coast to coast. That's a little over 10 hours of work at typical body shop rates, less parts!

If you see a truck you like on ebay out here in CA or AZ, you'd probably be able to find a local FTE'er who would go look at it in person.

 

Good point Rob, rust repair/major body work is one of the most expensive items on the list.
Mechanicals can add up quickly but it seems the body shop bill can be the biggest.

 

I can tow a truck. I have found a truck in out west already. It looks like it's priced right also it's a 50 model.

 

I have an "out West" truck and have fiberglas fenders all around, and glass running boards. Western tin is not immune. Don't assume differently. There are places on BonusBuilts where dirt/mud get thrown up into and absorb water. Once it gets in there it can't get out. Check the area on front fenders where the upper fender joins the lower extension in the wheel wells. I had a pair of southern NM front fenders that were rusted in that place, not too badly but perforated nonetheless, and they only get 4" - 5" of rain a year down there.

 

Good point. Looks like it might take a while. I'm in no rush.