Mystery Oil Leak, Please Help!!
#17
If there is oil in the valley, check the high pressure pump discharge lines (the braided steel lines that go from the high pressure pump to each cylinder head). The fittings in the high pressure pump frequently blow out the o-rings and leak a significant amount of oil which eventually ends up at the bellhousing area.
#18
#19
Originally Posted by greagin
just ordered o-rings from mcmaster-carr. they are viton brand and i will be installing them as soon as they get here. thanks for all of the help!! i think it is fuel after all!! thanks tenn!!
#20
#21
Good luck. That fan can really blow things back making it super tough to isolate a leak at times. That is why a clean engine is a happy engine. Some call it ****, I call it having a look every so often before it gets to be a puddle of goo.
As a matter of fact, I attribute the bulk of my minimal oil usage between changes to getting soaked up in a paper towel as I check it so much.
As a matter of fact, I attribute the bulk of my minimal oil usage between changes to getting soaked up in a paper towel as I check it so much.
#22
#23
Originally Posted by greagin
as soon as i replace the o-rings i will clean the engine again and check it daily for about a week just to make sure that was it. if not, i will move on to other possible sources but i will let everyone know where it was. hopefully the faulty o-rings are the culprit.
When you get ready to do the job I did the following:
moved the valve out of the way that blocks your 1 hand work area.
Put a white drop cloth in the valley for my fat hands to drop screws.
Use a torq bit in a 1/4"drive socket to remove the torq screws. (you can't get a screwdriver in the space)
Don't drop the yellow valve lever. (otherwise the white cloth will have to help)
When Installing the o-rings snapped in place and held but the yellow lever won't. I used a tie wrap around it and inserted the top of the lever into the retaining hole and inserted 1 screw. This way you will have something to hold the lever and valve when you remove the tie wrap. After you snug up the screw a bit but not tight you can cut off the tie wrap.
Snug all the screws evenly to compress the o-ring then gently tighten. Don't crack the plastic by over tightening.
I have had a clean engine since doing this work. Relatively easy if you use the tie wrap method (string would work but I had the tie wrap).
Have a nice day. Jim
#27
well i did my fuel drain orings yesterday, did Simple Green after it, and so far so good, the valey is dry like like it should be, i had fuel all way back to my fuel tank, it was all over, it looked like oil at first, but every time it got wormer i smeled fuel , so i got o-rings for pump IPR and fuel drain, just did one to see what happens, it was a drain valve,
the one thing i noticed, that if your drain valve swings easly between open and closed position than you more likely have a leaking valve,
very easy to replace,
the one thing i noticed, that if your drain valve swings easly between open and closed position than you more likely have a leaking valve,
very easy to replace,
#28
#30
Okay, i replaced the o-rings and it was dry for a day, maybe even a few days. now it is dripping agin. not at all like it was before though but some. the bottom of the valve appears to be wet (by feel). Should i just order a new valve assembly as i t may be old and cracked on its own or i may have done it putting it back on, or is there another place that it could leak from in that area? any advice would be appreciated.