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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Help with 300

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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 08:24 PM
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xpl951's Avatar
xpl951
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Help with 300

i have a n 83 f150 300 I6 with 4 maunal granny 1st.
the truck has 145k and i was wanting a bit mor low end TQ.

was thinking an intake and ford 2150 carb. It has a straight cherry bomb on it and one inch taller filter.
do headers actually do anything for this slow rpm motor?
im looking to spend $1000


let the ideas fly......





jim
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 08:39 PM
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I think a header, an aftermarket intake, say a Offy DP would do the trick. The 2150 is an excellent carb and should work pretty good on the ole 300. Another free upgrade might be to bump the timing up a little. That should give you some more power off the line.

 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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If your getting a header DO NOT get the biggest primary tube size possible. that will hurt low end power and give your more top end. If your not going to bust your wallet, stick to the cast manifold and get a good flowing exhaust. A good flowing intake is the way to go. Do what Desperado said by bumping the timing up a little. Keep adding about 2 degrees to the timing until it pings under load then back it off 1 degree at a time till it stops pinging. You might consider a bigger air filter it will hardly be noticeable but its worth a shot anyway. Replacing some of the ignition components with high perf. ones will help to. A good tune up if the motor is not running at its best is just wasting horsepower. No amount of performance parts will fix that if its not running right.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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what aobut the clifford

http://www.cliffordperformance.net/M...gory_Code=F300

and a holleyAvenger
or a ford 2150?


timing is advanced to where it will ping at @ 1000rpm in 4th.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by xpl951
timing is advanced to where it will ping at @ 1000rpm in 4th.
Wow thats a bit much advance as it will eventually destroy the engine. Its possible that it'll burn holes in the pistons. It needs to be backed down until it doesn't ping anymore, and thats ideal for the engine.

Also, not to knock clifford, but don't buy into all the hype... but good idea.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 05:32 AM
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Give me the thousand, there's some parts in Vegas I can scrouge up.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by desperado_18_2000
Wow thats a bit much advance as it will eventually destroy the engine. Its possible that it'll burn holes in the pistons. It needs to be backed down until it doesn't ping anymore, and thats ideal for the engine.

Also, not to knock clifford, but don't buy into all the hype... but good idea.
It will spark knock if you punch it at that rpm and speed, but will not if you are cruising at that rpm.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:47 AM
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I'm running a 2150, Offy "C" & the EFI cast-iron dual headers on my '84.
I really like the 2150, its simple & easy enough for an idiot like myself to fiddle with & tune. Mine is off a 351 (1.28?), so I might be over-carbing the motor a little, but it seems to be working all right. I actually have 2 of the carbs & if I remember right, they were the cheapest purchase (one was free...).
The offy "C" is more for higher RPM work, so you might want to go for the "DP". I was originally looking at a Clifford intake, when I actually went to buy one (I was at a car show) the offy was on hand & on sale. At the time I didn't know much about the difference in the intakes & just grabbed one. I suppose people can argue one way or another, but I'm happy with the set-up.
I got my EFI exhausts off a van, but you can find them on any EFI 300. They show up on ebay frequently. They're much cheaper than tube hedders & they'll pretty much last forever. My exhaust goes from the dual-out, combines under the cab, a 3 chamber Flowmaster to single out, right in front of the right rear wheel. Sounds like a combination of a V10 & a diesel. Gotten quite a few compliments over the years.
When I did all of this to my truck several years ago, I was also doing an engine swap (300 to 300) which made it easier in a way, but here are some things that might help:

- the stock throttle cable will work, but I had to make/modify the mount. I used a piece of angle iron, bolted it to the intake & then secured the original cable mount to that. No problems so far.
- You'll need a new fuel line. I just picked up some line at NAPA & bent my own.
- I did need to get a carb adapter for the intake, depending on what intake you use, you may need to do the same. Just pick up one of the cheepo 2-to-4, 4-to-2 carb adapters.
- The EFI exhaust manifolds have several cast-on mounts. Depending on the intake, you may need to grind some of these off to get everything to fit. Make sure you test fit first! The EGR hole on the rear manifold needs to be blocked off. Its an odd size that no-one can get. Some guys keep the tube & just pinch it near the nut, I just found a plug that was close, used Red RTV & torqued it as tight as possible.
- Lining up the EFI exhuast (2 pieces) & the intake takes about 5 arms. One thing that helped me is I replaced all of the lower bolts with studs. Save as many of the thick spacers on the bolts as you can, you'll need them. Don't use regular washers to hold the manifolds on, they won't work (the bolts will back off)! If the stock spacers don't work, you can make your own from (very!) thick hardened steel washers or from bar stock.
- If you use the EFI exhausts, you now have a dual-exhaust set-up. If you actually want a single-out, there is the Walker down-pipe. I just had the exhaust shop make one, as they were doing my whole exhaust system anyway, it didn't add much more to the cost.
- Not sure where you're located, but if it get pretty cold you might need some sorta carb heat. The stock set-up uses exhaust heat, the manifolds are bolted together. The Cliffy intake is (I belive?) plumbed for water heat. The offy intakes are cast with the exhaust heat set-up (if you use the stock, log exhaust). With hedders (tube or EFI) & the offy intakes you can make (possibly buy) an adapter that bolts onto the bottom of the intake for water heat. This is what I did. I went so far as to get a few valves so I can bypass the plate in the summer & use the heat in the winter. Probably more work than it needs to be, but it looks cool. There are also water heated carb spacers, these might be easier to work with actually.

The engine pulls quite well. When I moved several states away, the truck loaded pulled a car trailer & (later) a VERY loaded trailer with out too many problems down the freeway. Couldn't do 80 going up a hill, but with as much weight as I had on that thing I really should'a had a 1-ton (not a 1/2). Since then, the truck has done well in the colorado mountains despite the idiot driver... One thing to check is the emission laws where you are, that could have a big influence on what you do. Hope all of this helps.
Edwin
 
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 05:12 PM
  #9  
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In located in indiana. will it matter if the intake has water to heat it?
 
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