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waterpump failure

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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 11:34 AM
  #1  
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waterpump failure

The original one lasted for over 150k miles and for over 8 years, and it was the gasket that actually rot away. The replacement (from Napa) appear to have failed in about 50k miles and 4 years. What would be an expected life time for a waterpump? Today (sunday), I can only a get a pump from Schuck's, but who makes good pumps that can last a little more?

I also changed the fan clutch 2 years ago (also Napa) because of overheating, and noticed that the new fan clutch was significantly louder than the old one. I attributed that to the blades that were spinning a little faster, but now I'm thinking that the new fan clutch may have given a little inbalance to the blades.

Bonus question: can I use a little RTV on the waterpump gasket, betwen the gasket and the block? (timing chain cover, to be precise) That surface may not be perfect, that's why.

TIA
 

Last edited by aurgathor; Aug 26, 2007 at 12:10 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 09:37 AM
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RTV should be fine. I use it to make sure the gasket doesn't slip on install. NAPA generally has about as good as you can get. If you had time you might order a something out of the Summit catalog.

Need to keep good antifreeze/water mix to prevent corrosion.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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I'm the other side on NAPA stuff. I hate it with a passion.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 04:44 AM
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> can I use a little RTV on the waterpump gasket

Not the red, black, or blue stuff. You have to get RTV made for anti-freeze. It is gray and comes in a little tube by Permatex.

When your replacement waterpumps keep dying sooner and sooner that is a sign of either bad parts or bad grounds coupled with a lot of sediment in the cooling system.

You should do a real power flush with a chemical and test for bad grounds.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rebocardo
> can I use a little RTV on the waterpump gasket

Not the red, black, or blue stuff. You have to get RTV made for anti-freeze. It is gray and comes in a little tube by Permatex.
I didn't know there was a different RTV for anti-freeze.

You should do a real power flush with a chemical and test for bad grounds.
I don't think grounds should be an issue, but a fush and cooling system overhaul is in the plans.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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Insufficient grounds can lead to electrolosis which eats up metal. My battery is grounded to the frame, from there to the block. I also have the original ground wire on the back of the engine.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 12:27 AM
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Also run a 14 guage jumper wire from the battery NEG. terminal to a baremetal ground on the fender or inner fender well. I usually put a dab of dialetric grease over it to prevent any surface rust spotting. Ground to bare metal, and no paint, is key.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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Napa sells the same products as CarQuest and O'Reillys who are top of the line. It's just that napa has the worst rep for bad customer service...if any! My local napa is rediculously slow and has no knowledge on cars when you speak to them!
 
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