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Probably been posted before but couldn't find it.
My 89 F150 EFI 5ltr uses way too much fuel and the exhaust pipe even smells of fuel when it isn't running. Have replaced fuel resevoir before fuel pump and also the pressure regulator on the rails. Fuel pressure seems to be normal also. Black fuel smoke when I put the boot in.
Q. If the engine is getting too much fuel, would it be more likely to be the injectors are playing up, or the pump itself is pumping too much?
Q. If the engine is getting too much fuel, would it be more likely to be the injectors are playing up, or the pump itself is pumping too much?
The pump can not pump too much fuel.
If the fuel pressures are normal after you check the pressure as chrono4 said you might have a bad TPS or ECT sensor. Normal fuel pressure will be 33-34 PSI at idle and 40-43 PSI WOT.
After you fix the problem you will need to clean the O2 sensors.
ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature sensor
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
WOT - Wide Open Throttle
The pump can not pump too much fuel.
If the fuel pressures are normal after you check the pressure as chrono4 said you might have a bad TPS or ECT sensor. Normal fuel pressure will be 33-34 PSI at idle and 40-43 PSI WOT.
After you fix the problem you will need to clean the O2 sensors.
TPS and IACV are new. Fuel pressure is ok after the new regulator was installed. I have noticed that the temp guage hardly moves at all. Even when truck's been running for 1/2 an hour and it has a new thermostat too. So the coolant temp sensor has that much of an impact on fuel delivery ????
Geez how I miss the old carby'd V8's.
I have noticed that the temp guage hardly moves at all. Even when truck's been running for 1/2 an hour and it has a new thermostat too. So the coolant temp sensor has that much of an impact on fuel delivery ????
Geez how I miss the old carby'd V8's.
The ETC has nothing to do with the temp gauge. The temp gauge is controlled by a engine temp sending unit.
Opertaing temp has plenty to do with the fuel injector pulse width as calculated by the EEC.
Based on the fact that your gauge is telling you that the motor is not getting up to temp (unless I am misunderstanding you), you have a new thermostat in, and you are running rich, I would guess that the t-stat is not the correct one, stuck open or something along those lines. Do you have a laser thermomter? I would start taking some temp readings to see what temp the coolant is really at after about 1/2 hour of idling. If you are really not getting up to temp, then you are probably never reaching closed loop and that would explain you gas guzzling situation. Lastly, if the ETC is bad and it is telling the EEC that the motor is cool, then the pulse width will be calculated accordingly and the MPG will be down. This could also prevent the computor from reaching closed loop. But since your guage is reading low, I would look at the temp of the coolant as opposed to the signal that the ETC is sending to the EEC.
The sensors are the only input the computer has to tell it how the engine is running, and if one or more of these are giving it bad information, then the computer will inject to much fuel. Has the check engine light ever been on? I so go to fordfuelinjection.com and learn how to run a diagnostic test(ie:read the codes).
The dash temp gauge is not connected to the EFI system and uses a seperate sensor. It is located near the front drivers side lower intake, it's about the size of a dime and the wire pushes onto a stud on the top.
Based on the fact that your gauge is telling you that the motor is not getting up to temp (unless I am misunderstanding you), you have a new thermostat in, and you are running rich, I would guess that the t-stat is not the correct one, stuck open or something along those lines. Do you have a laser thermomter? I would start taking some temp readings to see what temp the coolant is really at after about 1/2 hour of idling. If you are really not getting up to temp, then you are probably never reaching closed loop and that would explain you gas guzzling situation. Lastly, if the ETC is bad and it is telling the EEC that the motor is cool, then the pulse width will be calculated accordingly and the MPG will be down. This could also prevent the computor from reaching closed loop. But since your guage is reading low, I would look at the temp of the coolant as opposed to the signal that the ETC is sending to the EEC.
Thermostat is the correct one, but, the thermostat housing has a 1/2 inch spout that lets water bypass the thermostat and flow back to water pump. Would that be the reason it's running colder? There is also a fair bit of pressure in the radiator even when it's cold and spurts out when opening the radiator cap.
If I get it to run at normal temp, and replace possibly faulty coolant temp sensor, it hopefully would use less fuel? Maybe?
Thermostat is the correct one, but, the thermostat housing has a 1/2 inch spout that lets water bypass the thermostat and flow back to water pump. Would that be the reason it's running colder? There is also a fair bit of pressure in the radiator even when it's cold and spurts out when opening the radiator cap.
If I get it to run at normal temp, and replace possibly faulty coolant temp sensor, it hopefully would use less fuel? Maybe?
The pressure in the coolant system indicates heat, yet your gauge is telling you otherwise, you are getting bad MPGs, you smell gas coming out the exhaust and you recently installed a t-stat. You are just going to have to take some temp readings of the coolant in various locations (radiator, manifold, heater core, water pump etc) and come to a conclusion based on your findings then proceed accordingly. This is most easily done with a laser thermometor.
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