04 F-350 CC SB 4x4. It has `95K miles on it. It seems to be smoking a little more than it used to on hard acceleration. And i had one instance where i had no power for about 20 seconds. Feathered the throttle and finally the turbo kicked in and it has been driving normal ever since. I usually get 25 -28 psi on my boost during a hard acceleration and especially pulling my 10K lb. Horse trailer up the hill. Am i strarting to get the turbo veins sticking or do you think it is the EGR/EPB. I had both of those replaced under warranty 3 years ago when i had a similar problem. No CEL has displayed.


My question?

I have gauges installed. ON the trans temp, what is the max i should look for. It will routinely run 195-205 while pulling my trailer in the hot arizona heat, but i see no change in the dash gague. should i be concerned, or at what temp should i be concerned.


Thanks in advance

Chris

 

it is possible that you have sticking vanes, it is also possible that you have clogged egr. you can pull the egr it's not difficult and clean it. follow the tech files thread and it will walk you through it. then you can disconnect it for good .
yes you should be worried with that temperature on your tranny, i know most ATF you should not get up to 200 that is already too hot, but someone told me that the ford SP is a synthetic (those who know feel free to pipe in) if that is the case, then you can get away with higher temps.
the stock tranny gauge is not a gauge, it is a pointer with basically THREE positions. LOW, NORMAL, and HOT...

 

Just want to jump in about Ford's pointer system. I cannot understand why any company today uses an antiquated system. For what the cost is to repair these engines and transmissions under warranty (they have already shown they don't care what you have to pay). I have trouble convincing myself to keep the electrical sending unit gauges I have that is why I want to go to mechanical whereever I can.

 

As for trams temp you can run it hotter then 200
Here is a little info

It doesn’t take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins.

At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid’s lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation of the transmission. If the temperature gets above 250 degrees F., rubber seals begin to harden, which leads to leaks and pressure losses. At higher temperatures the transmission begins to slip, which only aggravates overheating even more. Eventually the clutches burn out and the transmission calls it quits. The only way to repair the damage now is with an overhaul -- a job which can easily run upwards of $1500 on a late model front-wheel drive car or minivan.

As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!

At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won’t go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you’ll get before the transmission burns up.

 

This temperture info you posted is from a VERY old study...somewhere around 1985 or so. Todays PSD's tranny is build to withstand temps into the 200's without breaking down. Our fluid is synthetic whereas that study was on organic oil (ATF).

Good rule of thumb info for the auto's of the 80's and early 90's.

 

Maybe someone on here that works at a dealer ship or Ford can give the safe transmission temp working range for a 5r100.

I know with my 94 f150 and pulling my 21tt the trans temp would run in the 220 to 240 range. I just had to change the oil and filter more often.

 

Well it turns out it was the EGR. I took a trip hauling a trailer from Phoenix to Denver a couple of weeks ago. The truck ran fine on the freeway, however there was a long delay when starting from a stop. It took the turbo about 10 seconds to spoolup and blew a lot of black smoke. I felt bad for the cars next to me at every stop light. When i got back to AZ, I took the truck into the Dealership. Tested and determined it was an EGR stuck open. They cleaned it, tested and found the EGR bad so they replaced it. cost was $100.00 under the Diesel drivablity program of the 5Yr/100K mile. It is running like a champ now.

Im now looking into getting an SCT tuner and see if it helps with mileage in towing and non-towing situations. My trip ended up with averaging 11.2 to 11.7 hauling 10K lbs. All interstate driving Phx to Denver.

AZChris

04 CC Lariat SB SRW, 3.73, Banks 4" Cat back exhaust.

 

If your runing the latest Ford program it will disable the EBP sensor, and cycle the VGT to mitigate the sticking vane issue.

 

do you know roughly when this flash came out ?? i dont think i have it, because i have NEVER heard my vanes cycle at idle, and people tell me it is very obvious you will know when they do it, and i have bad lag so i think they may be stuck.

 

Glad you got it going again. I was late on this one, but dad's '03 did the same thing a while back. It sat quite a bit, and the veins were stuck and the egr was bad. First breakdown besides 2 injectors at one time. It didn't have many miles then. He has 130,000 now, and thats the only two times it has been in the shop. Only other thing we did was put in new batteries at 115,000. His runs like a champ now too. These girls like attention, you can't let em sit alone. lol

 

This is only for 6.0 engines manufacutured before 09/29/2003. Engines manufactured beyond this date still use the EBP sensor in the PCM engine strategy.

"2003/04 Computer Programming Recall 06E17:
Truck built before 9-29-03 are being recalled to have the computer reprogrammed. The reason for this recall is to correct fuel injection timing during cold operation, EGR valve control, lack of power, check engine light illumination (P02263 or P0299), hard starting and rough running concerns related to Exhaust BackPressure sensor corrosion. Other symptoms not listed in this recall, but which could occur, would be excessive smoke, turbo control and surging at idle or cruise. The new update eliminates the EBP sensor input to the computer. The exhaust backpressure will now be inferred/calculated using other sensor signals. Trucks should be reprogrammed using versions 41.8 or 42.1 or higher.
After this reprogramming, the truck should be test driven, the computer checked for a codes and the codes cleared (even if none are present), the key cycled on for five seconds, then turned off twice, then the engine started and allowed to idle for 5 minutes at operating temperature to allow the computer to relearn the EGR valve closed position value. This is to prevent erronious codes or driveability sysmptoms related to the EGR valve an turbo performance. Broadcast Messages 5452, 5529.
You should notice an increase in turbo cycling closed/whistling at idle and at stops. This is normal, and is to help keep the variable vanes from sticking."

 

I have an 04 motor and my latest flash cycles the turbo veins. Matt can tell you by the strategy what the flash is supposed to do "D". If your tunes are FSM8 then you have the latest flash.

 

Blackhat, why do the earlier model engine program strategy still employ the EBP sensor? I thought that it was accros the board as a result of many EBP sensor failures. Thanks

 

Trucks built after 09/29/2003 still use the EBP sensor in their strategy, the early 03 motors are the ones that the EBP sensor is turned off. The later motors had a different EGR system, pistons, cam and tuning profile than the 03 engine. In addition the later engines have had multiple changes that the 03 motor did not have and the parts are not interchangeable. They were trying to fix more than one problem in the 03 motor by eliminating the EBP sensor input.

 

my tunes are FSM7 should i have my truck reflashed would it be worth it ?