Questions on head studs
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Rockford Illinois
Questions on head studs
I'm getting ready to install an SCT tuner and MBRP exhaust on my 6.0L. Will installing aftermarket head studs make it less likely that my engine will blow. Is ARP a good brand? How difficult is it to change head studs? Anything else you guys can tell me would be great! Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Statesvegas, NC
ARP's are very well thought of and are the most commonly used replacement due to the strength vs. cost. H11's have a higher tensile rating but are almost twice as expensive.
Yes, they will help you keep from blowing head gaskets but if you already have warped heads (you may have and not know it) there is only so much the studs can do.
Some people do install them one at a time (or so they say on here and TDG forums) in place of the OEM bolts as opposed to pulling the heads. The rear ones can be a real beast to r&r. Most techs will not recommend this because of the torque issues created while removing one at a time vs. torquing them in the sequence they are supposed to be tightened in.
Yes, they will help you keep from blowing head gaskets but if you already have warped heads (you may have and not know it) there is only so much the studs can do.
Some people do install them one at a time (or so they say on here and TDG forums) in place of the OEM bolts as opposed to pulling the heads. The rear ones can be a real beast to r&r. Most techs will not recommend this because of the torque issues created while removing one at a time vs. torquing them in the sequence they are supposed to be tightened in.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Las Vega$
yes arp is plenty good for up to way more power than you will ever make with a tuner and exhaust.
you will either want to pull the motor, or at least lift the cab off of the frame to do the studs. at least that's what the general consesus is around here.
i have considered the one at a time thing, but i dont know of anyone who has had good luck doing it that way.
you will either want to pull the motor, or at least lift the cab off of the frame to do the studs. at least that's what the general consesus is around here.
i have considered the one at a time thing, but i dont know of anyone who has had good luck doing it that way.
