Browsed few helmet supply outlets for mig/tig helmet and find they range in price from $30 and up. Assume I should look for auto darkening, batt. over solar, and narrow darkening range to between 9-12. Also, would like the larger lens but appears they tend to cost considerably more. Thought about HF, large lens helmet in catalog, but there is the issue getting parts if lens need replacing. Any features I should focus on, any suggestions, or source would be appreciated.

dave

 

Get a good one ,you'll be glad you did,,,Prices have come down a bit since I bought mine ,Had it about 18 years, (still works like new)Actually I don't remember ever changing the battery.....

 

If your eyes are light sensitive do not get the auto darkening. I burned my eyes the first time I used one. If you not doing a lot of stop/starting on small jobs they may be OK. But NOT FOR ME. Burning your eyes is not fun.

I use the 4 1/2 x 4 1/2" Gold film lens. It gives the arc a blue tint which is easier on your eyes. if you buy lenses you have a option for glass or plastic. Plastic is lighter and filtering is the same quality.

For these small Tig machines a #9 lens is fine for 0.025 Fluxcore. If you go with the 0.030" with gas the arc will be brighter. I have a complete set from 8-14. Welding AL requires a darker lens.

Buy a Good helmet and it will be your last. I still have my first helmet from 1971, and still use it.

 

Do have light sensitive eyes. Looking for as large lens as possible. Was about to purchase the auto darkening "speedglas" helmet. Did not consider going with helmet and set of lens, I will have to do some research as an option, then find a good helmet with selection of lens. Appreciate the info.

dave

 

An in expensive helmet may give you poor protection. Please do not place all auto darkening helmets in the poor category. A slow reacting lens is simply due to cheap products, and not all helmets are this way.
I use the Jackson Moresafe helmet. You will want a helmet notonly with variable shade, but with adjustable sensitivity for ambient light or arch intensity.
My Jackson also has a low battery indication to prevent failures or aciidental flash without reaction, common with non battery operated units.
buy a $30.00 helmet, and you will get $30.00 worth of protection, how much your eyes are worth is up to you. A quality helmet is not much different than a comfortable pair of boots. Spend enough time in your boots and you can justify the added expense of a quality pair. The selection of your helmet is a prime example of "you get what you pay for".
Oh yeah, the Moresafe has the quickest switching speed available,(1/25000) and the largest lense in auto darkening lenses. Worth every penny.

 

Hate to tell you it was a Jackson Moresafe, but every ones eyes are different. No one else in the shop had problem with it, just me. The ones who could use it were very pleased and loved it. I have all most true Night Vision, so my eyes are extra sensitive. I'm old school so auto darkening is not needed. If I go in for an eye exam and they put the light in my eye, I have to comeback another day. I have always had to wear 1 - 2 shades darker than any one else. I have to use a #12 if I tig weld AL. These smaller mig machines are not as bright in the lower settings used for body panels.

In most all cases, you must purchase the lens seperately. Most new helmets come with 1 (#10). You will spend ~$30+ for the lenses I use, where the std green are around ~$10. The #10 is what the avg person uses. You should purchase a few extra clear lenses. These are what used to protect the tinted lenses from sparks.

 

Looked at most expensive passive 'Jackson' welding helmets w/ assortment of lens and must admit the total cost is enticing. The 'Morsafe', and 'Speedglas' helmets are considerably more. Decision will not be easy, tend to go for quality, none of the long list of tools I own are cheap. Have few days, first of next month intend purchasing along with mig, prefer the Miller or Lincoln but likely settle for the Horbart. Appreciate the input.

dave

 

I have a Hobart 180 with hobarts auto shade helmet and I love both of them. I wouldn't call it settling for a Hobart as with the Miller and Lincoln you are paying for the name. I believe Hobart is owned by Miller anyway just wanted you to know that the Hobart stuff is A+ in my book. I also use the helmet with my plasma cutter and it works well with that also. Hypertherm 380 plasma cutter gets an A+ also--- hope the review helps.

 

The Smaller Hobart 125 Mig that runs on std 115vac is a winner too. My local welder supply was skeptical. So they setup and tried to burn one out. They said it worked liked a champ, and did not fail. They hammered it for a week on a big job. That was good enough for me. I have had mine for several years now and love it. But you must have a 115vac outlet with no other equipment on the circuit. I tripped a breaker when my helper started a grinder. I purchased a 50' 10ga extension cord so I could move it around my PU in the garage. You do not want to run it on a smaller ga cord, it will heat up, beside having a voltage drop. I used it to make my own welding cart for the welder. Did not like the cheap thin gage carts I was seeing.

I considered the 135 which ran on 220, but did not have a 220 available if I was away from my garage. I wish I had 3 phase power in garage, I would have a nice TIG welder too.

I use the .025 flux core wire, don't have to worry about wind. Great for these thin body panels, and can weld up to 1/2" plate.

 

Anytime buying ANY type of sheild make SURE any of the lenses are Z87.1 certified type lense,this includes the inside and outside cover lense.
Z87.1 means it has a polycarbonate in it,which blocks 99% of the UV rays and impact resistant.
Plain Plastic and glass ony blocks 30% of UV rays.
When OHSA first came out with the Z87.1 requirements we were all a little skeptical of the claim it blocks 99% but i can say this,ive welded along side several welders in shops and on the shiny reflective decking on structural buildings and anytime wearing the Z87.1 clear safety glasses i never got a flash at all,no matter where you look when the sheild is up in these conditions your getting flash to your eyes from other welders around you.
Alot of cheap hoods(shields) are cheaply made from china..tawain..etc,these people have NO standards,and even though the government has a standard for them to be sold in USA do you think they test all of them one by one?..no.
Most of the cheap sheilds are odd sized lenses,most of the time you cant find the replacement lenses that size and when you do,its just regular plastic lenses.
So im a beleiver of Z87.1 now.
I have a room full of different sheilds,i use the auto dark sheilds most of the time,never had even a slight flash from them.
If you have the good lense covers and the auto lense that are Z87.1,the combination of the 3 are already blocking the UV rays before an arc is striked, plus wearing safety glasses behind the sheild you are MORE than protected from UV rays.

The very FIRST thing i do when working on ANYTHING is put the safety glasses on..make it a habit so you dont even think about,i feel naked without them and gloves on, so its easy to remember them.

 

Found there are some good deals online when it comes to purchasing the Mig. Appears it best to buy the helmet from local supplier, have not found too many online sales persons who are knowledgeable when it comes to specifics with weld shielding, possibly not contacting the right suppliers. Want to purchase within the week, need to decide whether to go with the quality light weight passive helmet with proper lens, or quality auto helmet at 3 times the cost. It's the you get what you pay for issue. Appreciate the suggestions and input.

dave

 

Dont bother buying a regular sheild..send me your address in a PM and i'll send you a good Jackson hood for free,i have several laying around here,im an international ironworker and most of the jobs give them away to us rather than using up the space in trailers to haul em back to their shops when the job is finished,but if and when you get an auto lense,you'll see why once you have one,you'll never go back.

This way you'll have a free regular hood,put that money saved towards a good auto lense.

John

 

John, really appreciate the offer, just picked up a used 'morsafe' autodarkening welding helmet, in round about manner, did not cost me a dime. Short of the long of it, brought to my attention today where friend of a friend willing to exchange some hard to come by auto parts I happened to have for welding rig. Went to check it out, not impressed with welder, did have a helmet so ended up passing on the welder and swapping couple parts for helmet. It's in fairly good condition, no scratches on face plate, superficial scratches to helmet, not bad. Approx. 3.5 X2.5 lens, settings from 9-12, and takes AAA batt. Anyhow, can't beat the price, now need welder and ready to go. Have a long funny story on welder I went to look at but will have to save that for another day. Thanx again.

dave

 

Those are pretty good lenses,good deal.
When looking for a MIG always make sure it has a good duty cycle.
Recently Lincoln has replaced some of the 110v Mig with newer models,i bought my Lincoln 135 plus at lowes few years ago for around 450.00,i noticed the other day they now have another model,i think it was HD3200?..around the same price as my 135 and has everything minus the bottle for MIG and fluxcore.
If you decide a 220v machine,Lincoln recently also replaced the the 175HD with a 180 model but i still seen the 175HD at lowes for 600.00 even though Lincoln stopped making them,i guess lowes dont want folks to know this so they can maybe get rid of them for the same price.
I seen a 175HD on eBay go for 425.00 with a shipping charge of 50.00 i wish i would of bid on for that price.
Look around,alot of places are clearing them out to make room for the newer 180.

 

Take a look at www.cyberwelds.com

Miller 251 w/30A
Miller Synchrowave 350