Fuel Pressure Question
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From: North of Greenville
Fuel Pressure Question
What is the stock, OEM setting for hte fuel pressure from the FPR on the fuel filter housing under the hood?
I just installed my gauge the other day, and it runs rock solid at 60 psi - both at idle and at high rev above 3000 rpm. I just want to know if this is the typical Ford setting or if it is an indication of my pump getting weaker because I know a lot of folks seem to be running their systems around 70-72 psi.
I just installed my gauge the other day, and it runs rock solid at 60 psi - both at idle and at high rev above 3000 rpm. I just want to know if this is the typical Ford setting or if it is an indication of my pump getting weaker because I know a lot of folks seem to be running their systems around 70-72 psi.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
I think I saw last week where Kwik said that 60 psi is where you want to be. He even gave examples why bumping up the pressure was usually a bad idea on a stock-mildly modified psd. I forget what thread it was in though.
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You want to be between 50psi to 60psi. Thats ford spec, the FPR is goofy, it all depends on how strong the little spring is inside, because over time the spring can wear down, and you will make less pressure. Your fuel pressure sounds good.
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From: North of Greenville
Thanks, guys. I know that there can be too much pressure from talking with RAMPAGE (Chris). He says that his truck likes about 68 psi fairly well, but if he gets over that level it starts idling really rough.
If Dan doesn't chime in, I'll search for the thread you mentioned Jason, because there's no doubt that I still fall into the "lightly modded" classification, and probably am just barely justified in saying even that.
If Dan doesn't chime in, I'll search for the thread you mentioned Jason, because there's no doubt that I still fall into the "lightly modded" classification, and probably am just barely justified in saying even that.
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I remember that thread, John. I think it was mid-to-late last week. Good news for me, then, is that mine runs rock solid at the 60 mark... only time it changes is when I drop off the accelerator pedal after revving up over 3000 rpm, and then it only bumps up to about 62 psi before quickly settling back to 60 and staying there.
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From: North of Greenville
I found the thread and read every post. Great information. No real guidelines there, though, as to what pressure is "too high". Only word I've seen along those lines is what I've herad from RAMPAGE about his truck idle. I think I'm going to attempt a little shimming exercise and see what I get at about 65 and 70 psi.
One other thing, though, I had not planned on spending $200 for an in-cab gauge and sending unit. Did you find any less expensive options, John? I was sort of hoping to do my sending unit and gauge for a total of $100 or less.
Then again, I've not really investigated these costs very much and probably don't have a realistic perspective on them. Either way, the plug will sit tight in ym tee until I break loose with whatever cash it does take, because I really want that in-cab gauge.
One other thing, though, I had not planned on spending $200 for an in-cab gauge and sending unit. Did you find any less expensive options, John? I was sort of hoping to do my sending unit and gauge for a total of $100 or less.
Then again, I've not really investigated these costs very much and probably don't have a realistic perspective on them. Either way, the plug will sit tight in ym tee until I break loose with whatever cash it does take, because I really want that in-cab gauge.
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You might find one slightly cheaper, but 200$ is right around the price for fuel pressure gauges. It has to have an electrical sender since 70psi of diesel running into the cab, if there was a gauge malufuction and you happen to be smoking a cigerette could be a bad day. I like my gauge though alot, it kinda cool to watch in the winter expecially, if its really cold, and the fuel is a bit thicker your pressures are higher until it heats up where it well even out. It also help you know if your getting into problems right away. I knew when my fuel was gelling before it was causing problems, after i figured out the drop in pressure was fuel gelling.
You might beable to figure something else out for the gauge, but I know everything on summit, and other sites that sell these gauges they are right around that price.
You might beable to figure something else out for the gauge, but I know everything on summit, and other sites that sell these gauges they are right around that price.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by F250_
I remember that thread, John. I think it was mid-to-late last week. Good news for me, then, is that mine runs rock solid at the 60 mark... only time it changes is when I drop off the accelerator pedal after revving up over 3000 rpm, and then it only bumps up to about 62 psi before quickly settling back to 60 and staying there.
Yours is doing fine so you are good to go.
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Wait, were you just revving it in neutral to 3000 rpm and it stayed fine? If that's the case, extend the gauge to the outside of the hood or *duct tape* it to the mirror, buy a hose with appropriate fittings to reach it out there and monitor it while driving. You might be suprised.
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From: North of Greenville
That's why I want to get it in the cab with me, Kris, so I can see some "real world action".
I think ofr now, though, that I'm going to go ahead and get the front leveling kit next and let the gauge fall in after that.
I think ofr now, though, that I'm going to go ahead and get the front leveling kit next and let the gauge fall in after that.
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From: North of Greenville
UPDATED in-cab Gauge Price Info
I just found an electrical gauge I really like at Summit Racing, gauge and sending unit is only about $86. I might just get this done in the VERY near future now.
Here's the link.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D80333&N=700 +400004+321910+115&autoview=sku
EDIT: I'll be doing this one real soon for sure because I just placed the order - $98 shipped to the house, complete with sender, wire, bracket, and gauge.
Here's the link.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D80333&N=700 +400004+321910+115&autoview=sku
EDIT: I'll be doing this one real soon for sure because I just placed the order - $98 shipped to the house, complete with sender, wire, bracket, and gauge.
Last edited by F250_; Aug 29, 2007 at 09:06 AM.
Post Fiend
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From: Middle Tennessee
I recommend connecting the gauge on the end of the fuel rail, usally on a return rather than at the fuel bowl. I want to know what the injectors are getting, not necessarily what is at the bowl since there may be a problem past the bowl. Form the manual:
Now you may or may not have the restrictors anymore which I believe you do not, but there could still be a problem past the bowl. A stuck fuel pressure regulator will lead to pump failure. Too high of a pressure has been thought to cause churning and air problems, along with shortening pump life.
Let us know how it works out. Does it come with the sending unit?
EDIT: never mind, I saw your edit.
Remove the 1/8-inch pipe plug from the top rear of the left head. Install Gauge (0-160 psi) Bar 014-00761 or equivalent. Run engine at idle, and check for leaks from the line to the gauge. Measure pressure with a full load on the engine. If fuel pressure is not within 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi), replace left head check valve, which is located on the front of the left head between the fuel inlet line and the head.
Now you may or may not have the restrictors anymore which I believe you do not, but there could still be a problem past the bowl. A stuck fuel pressure regulator will lead to pump failure. Too high of a pressure has been thought to cause churning and air problems, along with shortening pump life.
Let us know how it works out. Does it come with the sending unit?
EDIT: never mind, I saw your edit.