Under My post " Lifter Noise" I developed and istall a Fuel pump booster, I am posting the instructions for it here. Please read that topic to understand what and why.
Ok here goes; You will need a generic Bosch relay some tiewraps about 3 feet of 12 gauge wire, 4 female spade crimp ons, 1 small loop crimpon and a soldering gun and solder. Inside the frame rail on all SD in front of the fuel tank there is a wiring harness, remove some of the tape and pull the wires out of the plastic cover.
There is a pink wire with a black stripe, seperate it out.
There is also a larger Orange wire, seperate it out.
Mount the relay, I chose the bottom of the cab on a support rib. That way the screw doesn't go inside the truck.
Take a piece of wire , strip about 2 inches of insulation away.
Take the orange wire and do the same, do not cut the wire.
Wrap the new wire around the bare section of the orange wire and solder good. DO NOT USE SCOTCH LOCKS. This will cause a dead truck when you least expect it.
Put a spade on the other end and plug into one side of the normally open contacts of the relay.
On the side of the relay there should be a diagram, The pins with a squirrley line between then are the coil, there will be 3 others, one will have a arrow pointing at another, thats one side of the contacts, there will be another with nothing pointing at it, thats your other contact. Not he one the arrow is pointing at, it will not be used.
Take the pink wire with the black stripe and cut it. Yes cut it.
Take the pink wire with a black stripe coming from the front of the truck, put a spade crimpon on it and hook it up to one side of the coil of the relay.
Take a short piece of wire and hook it from the other side of the coil on the relay and attach to ground. Under the screw holding the relay is the best place. Use a loop crimp on, NOT bare wire.
Take the other pink wire with a black stripe going to the rear of the truck, put on a female spade and plug it to the other side of the normally open contacts of the relay.
Tiewrap your wires up neatly, and bend the relay down so that it won't get water in it, and your good to go.
I tried to write this so anyone could understand it, don't take offense if it sounds like I think you are stupid. I realize not everyone understands this like I do.
If I missed anything or ya'll have any questions please let me know, Good luck, you will like the results.
This will work on all gas trucks.

 

Thank you for the very easy to understand instructions!!

But tell me again, what does this do?

I know, I know.....don't say it...my wife tells me all the time.....

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Jun-02 AT 11:27 PM (EST)] Under topic "Lifter Noise", my last entry explains it. Sorry but its long winded.
Let me know if I can explain better.
This will work on the Big X's to, move to the rear just in front and towards the driverside frame rail.

 

Yes, I read that thread again...and again...Very cool info!!

But I, like others, would like to know how and where to test the pump's voltage. I would like to make sure that my voltage is low first. Not that I do not trust you but more so I can see the difference once the mod is done.

Thanks.

 

Monsta, ALL the V-10's have low voltage at the fuel pump. 10.4-10.8 seems to be the average, how many other Fords have it I dunno. I first read about it in the Kenne Bell catalog. Otherwise I would have never guessed. I'd imagine most of us would never have considered it. But it's true. I read HighTech's post under "lifter noise", and suggested he check his fuel pump voltage, his was 10.4. Ken

 

>But I, like others, would like to know how and where to test
>the pump's voltage.

From his instructions, it looks like you'd check from the pink/black wire to ground.

I have a question about the orange wire. Where does it go? If it's the power line back to the trailer plugs, it might not be a good idea to use it if you pull an RV or other "self-powered" trailer. Voltage spikes from the trailer could be very bad for the pump.

 

>Monsta, ALL the V-10's have low voltage at the fuel pump.
>10.4-10.8 seems to be the average, how many other Fords have
>it I dunno. I first read about it in the Kenne Bell catalog.
>

Ken, what's the price on Kenne Bell's booster? Thanks.

 

>>But I, like others, would like to know how and where to test
>>the pump's voltage.
>
>From his instructions, it looks like you'd check from the
>pink/black wire to ground.


AAAAAHHHHH!!!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 26-Jun-02 AT 07:48 PM (EST)]>>Monsta, ALL the V-10's have low voltage at the fuel pump.
>>10.4-10.8 seems to be the average, how many other Fords have
>>it I dunno. I first read about it in the Kenne Bell catalog.
>>
>
>Ken, what's the price on Kenne Bell's booster? Thanks.


Kenne Bell's telephone answerer told me : $199. The relay fix is looking more attractive.

Q: Is running a heavier gauge wire practical?

2001 F251 SRW Lariat CC 156 4x4 OffRoad, Camper Pkg., V10, Auto, 3.73LS, Snuglid, 265x75R Geolandar AT II+, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Volant intake, Gibson stainless cat-back exhaust.
Born, KTP: 07-26-00, Delivered: 8-29-00

 

Does anyone know what kind of relay to use??? Name, part number???

 

Monsta, check your voltage by probing the pink wire with a black stripe near the fuel tank. That should give you a good reading.
As for spiking the pump off a trailer, highly unlikely, a fuel pump is a motor. I research and gave it alot of thought and can't see what it could hurt. I would suggest caring an extra 30 amp maxi fuse in case your short some6thing on the trailer and blow the fuse. One suggestion for those that might be worried about hooking to the trailer feed, run a heavy wire up to the distibution panel under the hood, make sure you fuse it.
Running a heavier wire won't be practical, there would still be alot of loss in the system, it would be an improvement, but not as good as the relay.
I will check with my NAPA dealer and get a part number for the relay, I will post Fri Nite.
$199, thats unreal, I guess I should have made some kits and sold the at $99.95, Naaaa , Its to easy and I wouldn't be able to sleep at night.
I think I covered everyones questions, let me know if I haven't, Tim

 

I agree that it isn't likely to cause a problem, but when you plug your RV into a faulty 30A (or 50A) AC outlet while it is still plugged into the truck, bad things can happen to the truck as well as the trailer. A fuse protects (kind of) the ECU and rest of the electrical system, but by tapping that wire before the fuse, the fuel pump is at a little more risk. I think a seperate wire would be the safest/best solution- at least for those with "powered" trailers/campers.

While under the truck changing my oil tonight, I measured the voltage on the pink/black wire. It carries 0 volts with key-on/engine-off, 13.3 volts at idle and 13.3 volts at 2000 rpm. I strongly encourage everyone to MEASURE their voltage before running out and buying anything that costs more than $10.

 

Since there seems to be some concern about spiking and such, I suggest if you do this mod forget about the orange wire. Run at least a 12 gauge wire to the panel under the hood and use a 30 amp fuse.
For those who have travel trailers, aside from this mod, if the truck is turned off when you plug the trailer to AC, it will not hurt the truck if something goes wrong. There is a relay inline that disengages when you shut off the key. I tell all my customers to be totally disconnected from the truck, hitch and all before plugging in. A hot neutral or ground can feed thru the frame and fry alot of gear.

 

A big 10-4 on the unhooking everything first. My problem is a wife who likes to "help" me get the trailer (un)hitched. While I'm at one end getting ready, she's at the other end messing with stuff. I just about have her trained to not mess with the electrical connections, but sometimes she forgets. Hence my hightened fear of tapping the trailer wiring circuits.

While we're kind of on the subject, does the orange wire have power if you don't install the fuses/solenoids that come in the glovebox of new trucks?

 

No it does not, if the relay and fuse is not there, neither is the power.