So I bought some lights to put on the rear for backup lights but I only want them to come on when I turn a switch on. I also have the upfitter switches. Can I just mount the lights and hook up the ground wire to ground and the hot lead to one of the blunt cut wires under the steering column and it should then work off whichever upfitter matches that wire correct??? Or am I missing something??

 

From what I have read so far that sounds right to me. I havent hooked up any of my stuff to the upfitter switches yet but from the wiring diagrams and documents I have read that is all you should have to do. Here is a good drawing I found https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...l/upfitter.pdf

 

I did the same thing but I spliced the wire from the upfitter switch to one of the 4 pass thru wires which originate behind the fuse box, under the dash and terminate in the engine compartment near the master cylinder. Ran wiring from there down and inside the driver's side frame rail to the rear bumper for the lights. While I was at it, I pulled a second 12 ga. wire from the engine compartment thru the frame rail to the rear bumper for future use. I used split plastic wire loom to protect the wires from rubbing on fuel lines, bolts, etc.

 

Yes you can hook backup lights directly to the blunt cut wires for the upfitter switches, just remember that switches #1 and #2 can handle 30 amps but #3 and #4 are only for 10 amps maximum.

 

That's what I did.

 

I did the same - ran wire to the lights, grounded on the frame, and hooked up to Outfitter switch #1 (30amp). Real simple job, even for me.

It works fine, other than I'm not real happy with the light output from the ones I put on... (55W)

 

Wow you guys sure do make it sound easy, i though i was going to have to bust out he soldering gun and volt meter, thanks guys. is that the usual process for other things.

 

The hardest part of the entire job is splicing to the end of the upfitter switch wire to any other wire. There is almost no room to work.

I ran a wire from Switch 1's wire to a relay mounted above the spare tire. The relay is actuated from the backup light wire leading to the 7-pin trailer connector. The auxiliary lights come one when upfitter #1 is on and the vehicle is in reverse.

It actually worked on the first try!

Lesson leaned. Get a young, flexible teenager to do the splice under the dash.

Lou Braun

 

At least 18!

 

Good idea. Here's another option since you're using a relay. Run battery power from the trailer connector thru the normally open relay contacts to your add on back up lights and run the power from your upfitter switch thru the normally closed relay contacts to your add on lights. This way the lights will always come on when you shift into reverse OR you can turn them on manually with the upfitter switch for trailer hook ups, etc.

 

Do you really want those lights coming on every time you put it in reverse?? Then go ahead and wire it up that way.
I didn't as I figured there might be times (especially while on the road) when I didn't want the extra lights coming on, possibly with vehicles behind me. That's why I chose the wiring that allows me to decide when those lights come on, and they only come on when I take action - not automatically. The bonus was that it's the easiest method of wiring them.

 

There were two reasons I wired mine up differently. I rarely back up with other drivers behind me so that really isn't an issue for me. I want all the light I can get when backing down a dark driveway or trail and I want them to come on along with the OEM backup lights. The other reason was that I didn't want to have to leave the truck in reverse with the key on - even with the engine off - if I needed to do something behind the truck at night. And yes, I know you can jump out the upfitter relay so that the switches are live all the time. I didn't want to do that either since some of my other switches control high current loads.

I just sugguested it as anothe option for anyone thinking of doing something similar.

 

I understood your reasons and that they may be valid for you (and maybe even the OP)... that's why I said if you want it that way - go ahead and wire it up that way... I'm just giving people something to think about... I chose to do it another way and I also believe my reasons are valid...

There are a large number of reasons why I did it the way I did. One for instance - if I'm backing a trailer - I don't really want the extra lights shining off the front of the trailer and making it difficult for me to see past the front of it. (back in another thread when discussed, someone even piped up that they thought it was illegal in their state to have the white lights to the rear while on the road - I don't know about you - but I do a fair bit in reverse - into parking spots, parallel parking, getting back to a drive I've passed, etc. and FOR ME - I choose not to have white lights come on to my rear, automatically, every time I put it in reverse)
Giving people more options and choices on how to do something is what makes this forum so great....

btw - I wasn't picking on your choices - just trying to give the OP (and anyone else who reads this thread) a little more information, they may not have thought of, so that they can make the best possible choice for themselves; and for some - it might even be as you suggested. But for others.......

 

I would like to put some work lights on the back of my truck. I have a 2006 F-350 Harley Davidson. I was told that there is a power wire at the back of the truck somewhere but not sure. I would like to hook the lights up to one of the upfitter switches. Is there a wire near the back that runs up under the dash to the switches or am I going to have to run a wire myself? Someone please let me know.

 

You need to run a wire from the output of one the upfitter switches to the rear of your truck. This is realitively easy to do. Make sure that the wire you run is at least 14 gage and put it inside of a plastic wire loom to protect it.

I ran the wire along the inside of the frame rail on the driver's side of the truck. Black tie wraps and the split black plastic wire loom make the installation look factory.

Lou Braun