Oil Leak
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From: Tucker GA.
Oil Leak
I have an 01 f-350 drw. had rear tires replaced and noticed that the passenger side was covered with oil. Where can I find a thread or a clue as to what the fix may involve. If it involves tearing the axle apart then I will take the truck to the mechanic. But if it invloves taking the tires off and removing the brake assy then I think I may be able to handle it the campground where I'm staying. I pull a 5th wheel.
Mello
Mello
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From: La La Land
Is the truck 2WD or 4WD? That will make a difference in diagnosis.
Also, and more importantly, be absolutely sure that what you're seeing is oil and not BRAKE fluid. What's the master cylinder reservoir level look like?
Pop
Also, and more importantly, be absolutely sure that what you're seeing is oil and not BRAKE fluid. What's the master cylinder reservoir level look like?
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Aug 14, 2007 at 11:49 AM.
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From: Buckingham, IA
Either 2wd or 4x4, you will have to pull the rear axle shaft to access the axle seal or the brake cylinder. Not that bad of a job unless there are clips on the internal ends of the axle shaft inside the carrier. Then you have to pull the differential cover but don't need to remove anything more than the clips. You won't disassemble the carrier from the housing. And you will learn to just "LOVE" the smell of the differential fluid.....
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From: Tucker GA.
I have 2wd and the brake fluid if up to level. I have come accross two types of seal's
the alxe seal and the hub seal, they may be one in the same I'm not sure which to call it if I need a Part #?.
Mello
the alxe seal and the hub seal, they may be one in the same I'm not sure which to call it if I need a Part #?.
Mello
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From: Buckingham, IA
melloo, get both. The axle seal is the one that fits inside of the outer end of the axle housing. The hub seal is a thin (paper) seal that seals the hub end of the axle shaft to the wheel hub. Some use RTV to seal that and save the cost of that seal. IF and it is a big IF, if the brake cylinder isn't leaking, the job is much easier as you don't have to remove the wheel hub from the axle housing, just remove the 8,10,12, (I don't remember) nuts off the studs that hold the axle shaft into the axle. Pull the shaft out of the housing and you are ready to remove and replace the axle seal. I don't have a manual here on the super duty to tell me if there are clips inside the carrier. Hopefully someone else will give you that info. If there are no clips, then it is a half hour job. Don't even have to jack it up or remove the wheels, unless you have anything other than steel wheels. Wouldn't want to scratch or get oil on nice shiny wheels so then it is best to remove them. Hope this helps. This is one of those jobs where the anticipation is worse than the job.
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From: Tucker GA.
The job sound's easy enough even if the Clips are there. The sad part of all to this is I changed the Diff Oil in Atlanta before I left for the summer I paid $10.+ then. Ok then, I'll try to locate a dealer here in up-state N.Y. for the seal's.
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From: Irmo, SC
Is the inside tire wet or are the inside of the outside rim wet? If the outside rim is wet then its probly the hub seal. If not and its the inside wheel thats all wet then its a half day job and might as well get the emergency brakes if you go in that far. The seals went bad on the rear inside of my dually and I fixed them, and then pulling my trailer thru Utah the bolts loosened up on the hub so then I needed to get some locktite and tighten them back up. Sorry for the rambing.
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From: Tucker GA.
It seems that only the inside wheel is wet and only on the inside part of the wheel. With the Diff plug removed my little finger can still reach the oil I would say that on a scale of 1 to 10 it would be 3.5 to a 4 not al awful lot but still a problem.
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Originally Posted by melloo
It seems that only the inside wheel is wet and only on the inside part of the wheel. With the Diff plug removed my little finger can still reach the oil I would say that on a scale of 1 to 10 it would be 3.5 to a 4 not al awful lot but still a problem.
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From: Buckingham, IA
melloo,
I just started thinking about what I told you earlier about not having to take the hubs off and I was thinking about a half toner, not a dually. You will have to take the hub off to get to the seal. Sorry if this caused you any trouble. I would like to blame the heat for frying my brain but I doubt that is the cause. Sounds like you found the source of your oil on the tire, especially if you just changed the fluid and topped it off correctly. You will need a special socket to get the nuts off the axle housing. Parts stores might have them to borrow or rent. totin-tools is right about it taking a half day. Might be a little bit more of a job than you would want to do in a camp ground.
I just started thinking about what I told you earlier about not having to take the hubs off and I was thinking about a half toner, not a dually. You will have to take the hub off to get to the seal. Sorry if this caused you any trouble. I would like to blame the heat for frying my brain but I doubt that is the cause. Sounds like you found the source of your oil on the tire, especially if you just changed the fluid and topped it off correctly. You will need a special socket to get the nuts off the axle housing. Parts stores might have them to borrow or rent. totin-tools is right about it taking a half day. Might be a little bit more of a job than you would want to do in a camp ground.
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From: Milroy, PA
Please, please be sure to re torque the spindle nuts to spec. I can dig it up, but you tighten them so much (i think its untill it doesnt click) then back it of 6? clicks for used bearings. Thats just a general guide, ill re look it up tomarro if i get the chance. All in all its not a bad job, take the wheel off, caliper/rotor off, undo the 8 axle bolts, undo the spindle nut, r+r the seals, be sure to pre lube, also, after re installing the seal, and spindle, and axle. Be sure to jack the opposite side of for 5-10mins or so to replenish the gear oil in the bearings on that side!.
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From: Tucker GA.
Ok! well I haven't started anything yet. I like to know about the job before getting into it like the size of the spindle nut and any other special tools I might have to use.
I have repacked the bearings on the trailer and have to use an inch and half socket to remove them that is the largest deepwell scoket I brought with me. Also what is the story on the socket used to remove the hub nuts is that a standard socket?
Also the torque specs on the spindle nut would be appreciated from anyone?
I have repacked the bearings on the trailer and have to use an inch and half socket to remove them that is the largest deepwell scoket I brought with me. Also what is the story on the socket used to remove the hub nuts is that a standard socket?
Also the torque specs on the spindle nut would be appreciated from anyone?