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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Heater problems...

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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 08:34 AM
  #1  
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Heater problems...

Been a while since I posted,
Still waiting for parts from Blue oval.
Found a later model steering wheel in good shape..fits on splines, however..has two wire horn and does not seat deep enough on column. About a half inch gap is left. Guess I will live with it for now til I can find the right wheel.

Installed a Sony AM/FM radio.

To the next problem;
Heater cables are screwed up..heat is on all the time. Tried turning the valve off under the hood..no luck, must be open all the time. Heater blows hot air when you drive with no fan on.
How do I shut it off and fix this? Is there a diagram or exploded view of these units?

Thanks ahead of time for your help...
 
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 08:47 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by usdart
Been a while since I posted,
Still waiting for parts from Blue oval.
Found a later model steering wheel in good shape..fits on splines, however..has two wire horn and does not seat deep enough on column. About a half inch gap is left. Guess I will live with it for now til I can find the right wheel.

Installed a Sony AM/FM radio.

To the next problem;
Heater cables are screwed up..heat is on all the time. Tried turning the valve off under the hood..no luck, must be open all the time. Heater blows hot air when you drive with no fan on.
How do I shut it off and fix this? Is there a diagram or exploded view of these units?

Thanks ahead of time for your help...
There should be an inline heater water valve in one of the heater hoses. The heater temperature control cable hooks to this valve. When the cable is pulled out, the valve opens. It's prolly rusted out.


C3UZ-18495-A .. Heater Water Valve (Motorcraft YG-133)

Later steering wheel = sounds like 1971/77. Has black vinyl cover with two connectors. You need a wheel from 1964/70 = This wheel has been reproduced.

>>> Qwik heater fix: Remove both heater hoses from the heater core. Get a 5/8" straight nipple from a parts store. Put one end of the nipple in one hose, the other end in the other. Clamp 'em together.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Aug 14, 2007 at 09:07 AM.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 09:28 AM
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Yes, the old heater valve problem. My '67 had that, as you can't seem to find a GOOD quality valve anymore(they are plastic now). I went thru a few of them til I found one that work well enough to keep the heat off during the summer.

The old sheetmetal version would rust up and then lock up(either open or closed) if you didn't use it at least once a month. By now yours is stripped and the guts aren't turning with the lever, thus leaving you with constant heat.

If you can find another metal version, buy it. Then keep it lubed up(on the outside, around the lever) and try to remember to move the lever ocasionally to keep it loose. Just one of the little problems that is common to these trucks.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:11 PM
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you can get the metal version of this valve at dennis carpenters..i know they aren't a sponsor of this site..but they do have it..i can't remember what i paid for mine back in 2004...look on there website...
 
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 08:00 PM
  #5  
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there is a little vent on the passenger side inside the cab on most of these trucks, and i hate that stupid little thing. even with my heater valve closed it still causes air to blow at me, and if i close the vent then it allows air into the cab, so i shoved a sock in that bitch and a bunch of duct tape, so no more of that nonsense now.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 01:19 AM
  #6  
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Save money by buying from FTE sponsors

C3UZ18495A .. Heater Water Valve ~ It's still available from Ford

FTE sponsor DIRECTFORDPARTS shows the valve at $33.62 list; $19.80 FTE member net.

Find DFP's link on the home page among the sponsors, refresh till it comes up.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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what kind of advice would you give to someone who wants a heater that will fry an egg? my 71 was like that, but this 69 i own right now doesnt really get that hot, it keeps me plenty warm, but i want to improve it some. i have a brand new heater core in it as well.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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Dave, You can flush your heater core, make sure you have the hottest water coming into it, make sure there is no debris blocking on the inside, and plug all the air leaks in the cab.

AFAIK There is only one heater core, but there could be any of the above issues causing it not to perform at it's best. IMHO

John
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 03:23 PM
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Danger, I would look at the thermostat. I had a 180 in mine and it would not give me enough heat. Changing it out to 196 took care of that problem. Make sure you get one of the newer fail safe stats. These fail open so you will not over heat an engine. You can get them air lock, but that does not happen very often.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 04:34 PM
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my thermostat is new and its a 195.
the window seals for awhile were shaky but instead of replacing those i fabbed up some new ones for dirt cheap and they work like a champ. on the 2 hoses that go into the firewall for the heater core there is a t fitting on one of them that goes over to the carb spacer and i am thinking that could be holding me back. so i was thinking of bypassing that. the heater core does not sit in the duct perfect. there is space on the sides. so to rectumfy this and ensure the air only passes through the fins and not around it i fabbed up some high temp rubber insulation strips from work.
lots of fabbage. but still not as hot as my true love. my 71. i was a fool for selling her. she was a f250, even had disc brakes, and a tool box on the side.
 
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