Ideas For Engine Mounts
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Langley, BC, Canada
Ideas For Engine Mounts
Ive got a 57 with MII suspension. Im putting a 302 and C4 in the truck so im going to need to fab up some engine mounts. Thats not the part im having trouble with...the part im finding hard is figuring out where i need to put the mounts on the frame! Ive got a tranny mount bolted to the tranny and its sitting in the frame. Then ive got the engine held up by a engine hoist. Ive got the rad support bolted to the frame and im just about to put the cab on. Then im going to move the engine back and forth until i get it to clear the firewall and rad support. Then im going to have to tilt the engine until i get it right. If i put a compass on the top of the intake it should be at 0 degrees and if i put it on the front by the water pump it shoulld be at 3 degrees right?. Im pretty sure thats what ive heard somewhere before.
This is my first time doing this so im pretty much just asking all you guys if ive got this planned out right and im also hoping some of you out there with the same setup as me have some pics so i can get some ideas and point me in the right direction. Thanks
This is my first time doing this so im pretty much just asking all you guys if ive got this planned out right and im also hoping some of you out there with the same setup as me have some pics so i can get some ideas and point me in the right direction. Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,890
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From: La Verne, California
Originally Posted by 1957F100
Ive got a 57 with MII suspension. Im putting a 302 and C4 in the truck so im going to need to fab up some engine mounts. Thats not the part im having trouble with...the part im finding hard is figuring out where i need to put the mounts on the frame! Ive got a tranny mount bolted to the tranny and its sitting in the frame. Then ive got the engine held up by a engine hoist. Ive got the rad support bolted to the frame and im just about to put the cab on. Then im going to move the engine back and forth until i get it to clear the firewall and rad support. Then im going to have to tilt the engine until i get it right. If i put a compass on the top of the intake it should be at 0 degrees and if i put it on the front by the water pump it shoulld be at 3 degrees right?. Im pretty sure thats what ive heard somewhere before.
This is my first time doing this so im pretty much just asking all you guys if ive got this planned out right and im also hoping some of you out there with the same setup as me have some pics so i can get some ideas and point me in the right direction. Thanks
This is my first time doing this so im pretty much just asking all you guys if ive got this planned out right and im also hoping some of you out there with the same setup as me have some pics so i can get some ideas and point me in the right direction. Thanks
Last edited by Col Flashman; Aug 14, 2007 at 12:44 AM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I mounted mine the same way you are approaching yours. Use the top of the intake manifold to level the engine side to side and front to rear. Be sure before you start leveling the engine that the truck is perfectly level. I had to put 2x4s under the front tires to make my truck level before I started the engine leveling process since I had smaller tires on the front at the time. 
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: MN - NW of Twin Cities
Originally Posted by GreatNorthWoods
....Be sure before you start leveling the engine that the truck is perfectly level. ......
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Northshore, MN
Right, I was gonna say that the final "rake" is a factor, too. So to add to this, does anyone know the degrees of the top of the frame at the steering box (only as a reference pt.) on a stock truck? I don't have my front suspension on the truck yet, the PO drove the kingpin bushings into the spindles so mounting them is out of the question, other parts are still missing, and I want to get everything lined up before sandblasting/painting the frame, so I'm not at stock height, but would like to be before I set the engine mounts in. I think knowing the angle would help, as I can tweak it from there. IIRC, I measured 4 degrees with the 9" rear on, and the front beam on a dolly.
Last edited by havi; Aug 14, 2007 at 10:30 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Originally Posted by Col Flashman
You get Better performance out of an original 312 Y-block, you'd not have to worry about clearences or welding anything as it already fits nicely & they make adaptors to mount a C-4 to them.
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Postmaster
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From: La Verne, California
That's you Personally, I've seen Built 312's w/ ALL the T-Bird Performance parts added on & Stomp built 302's till the cows come home.
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Lead Driver
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by brucewolff
Well, that's true only if your truck is level when at ride height. What you really want to do is set your frame at the desired ride height and level side to side. Then set your engine's up so the intake manifold surface is level in both directions.
I respectively disagree. Unless you will have a severe rake in your final stance IMOHO it is better to level the truck to set mounts. You may change your tire and wheel setup many times during the life of the truck and you only want to do engine mounts once. A few degress of rake due to big and little tires or a lower front than rear suspension will not be a problem if the truck is leveled prior to setting mounts...
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Southern Maryland
Level Later
I have not done this on an Effie (I am the Explorer guy) but I have on a 55 Chevy Wagon. Remember that you will only need to be close to level because the tranny can be raised or lowered to move you a couple degrees each way.
Your mounts will have play in them
I BOLTED in my mounts then checked everything over and over,,,,steering box clearance (depending on your steering system), oil pan, etc.
Then I tack welded it and checked everything again, on different days!
also, ensure it is straight front to back, side to side. (obvious)
Are you using one of those aftermarket 'tube' mounts?
Your mounts will have play in them
I BOLTED in my mounts then checked everything over and over,,,,steering box clearance (depending on your steering system), oil pan, etc.
Then I tack welded it and checked everything again, on different days!
also, ensure it is straight front to back, side to side. (obvious)
Are you using one of those aftermarket 'tube' mounts?
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 553
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From: MN - NW of Twin Cities
Originally Posted by GreatNorthWoods
Bruce,
I respectively disagree. Unless you will have a severe rake in your final stance IMOHO it is better to level the truck to set mounts. You may change your tire and wheel setup many times during the life of the truck and you only want to do engine mounts once. A few degress of rake due to big and little tires or a lower front than rear suspension will not be a problem if the truck is leveled prior to setting mounts...
I respectively disagree. Unless you will have a severe rake in your final stance IMOHO it is better to level the truck to set mounts. You may change your tire and wheel setup many times during the life of the truck and you only want to do engine mounts once. A few degress of rake due to big and little tires or a lower front than rear suspension will not be a problem if the truck is leveled prior to setting mounts...
You would automatically be off unless your rake is level.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by brucewolff
OK.....but if you know what your ride height or rake is going to be why would you level the frame instead You would automatically be off unless your rake is level.
You would automatically be off unless your rake is level.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2001
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i had my frame level when i leveled my intake to create my engine mounts. But I plan on having it that way with no huge rake.
I have an MII with a 302/c4 combo as well. I had to buy a ford racing pan /oil pickup to be able to clear the MII crossmember.
I have an MII with a 302/c4 combo as well. I had to buy a ford racing pan /oil pickup to be able to clear the MII crossmember.