going to work, check engine light, stop for fuel. restart, barely will idle but check engine light is off. check oil, 3 quarts low. long time oil leak has gotten worse in the last month, so i chalked the low level to that. topped off oil at gas station. start engine, barely idle. NO throttle response whatsoever. if pedal is held to floor during cranking it will rev up but you gotta keep your foot it in or it will die or barely idle. revved it up and dropped in gear fights and fights and finally gets going on up through the gears. abort the work day, head home. get in the driveway, runs great. shut off engine, remove 10k mod. drive the 35 miles to work check engine light comes on again, but runs great, not even a hickup. leaving work, start engine, same problem. if you hold your foot in during cranking it will start up and rev high but you gotta keep the pedal down. small amount of light blue smoke and hesitation when gettin up in the revs (like 3000). revved it up, dropped into gear again with the pedal on the floor will slowly crawl up the revs and through the gears but i gotta keep it above 1600rpms or it bogs down. thanks for the patience to read all that.

 

btw. fuel filter has about 2000 miles on it. truck sat for two weeks, been driving it all this week. noticed a slight hesistation about a month ago on the first acceleration of the day a couple of times.

 

Cam positioning sensor? When you changed the fuel filter, did you check the filter screen on the fuel line going out of the filter housing? It's on the right side of the fuel bowl, you will need a 10mm socket to get the line off. 2 bolts hold the line to the fuel bowl. Be careful, there is a small O-ring at that connection. If you have gotten a hold of some bio-diesel, it has a tendency to super clean the fuel system and could easily plug up the filter and the screen I mentioned.
I'm not bad mouthing bio-diesel. It's really good stuff. You just have to go through the clean-out process when you switch to it.

 

first guess is injector harness under your valve covers, anyway to pull codes? definatly not a cam sensor on this one,

 

cps is old and i know it's a common failure but the other threads i have read seemed to have different symptoms when the cps was a failure, plus i am broke right now, so i have to be pretty sure before i go changing parts. i will keep it in mind. i cleaned the screen a couple of months ago. the more i think about it i am thinking a new fuel filter is in order even though i have ran fuel filters for a long time, many times before. u mentioned the bio deisel cleaning up the lines REAL good. i did do some dexron in my tanks a while back maybe that cleaned out a bunch of gunk in the lines and clogged the filter.

 

no code reader, i am going to see about borrowing one tomorrow. nice airwolf pic, that brings back childhood memories

 

thanks, love the show got all origoanl episode airings on vhs and the remastered dvds, among other things....but anyhow, if you can pull codes that would be a huge help, i'm off work tomarrow for a change but i'm sure by then a bunch of other people will be onto this topic, hopefully agreeing with me......lol, the codes should confirm my hunch and its a fairly cheap and easy repair. i look foreward to helping you out of a jam

 

cheap got my attention, i'll work on the code reader first thing tomorrow

 

lol, not the cheapes but better than putting injector o-rings like i think the other guy needs, last time i picked up an uvc harnes it was 30 or 40 bucks each, you have 4 of them, 2 per side, i am curious of your codes, i'll be watching

 

you may want to keep the cps in the back of your mind, one of my co-workers has a 97 that did the exact thing you are describing, he limped his way to the dealership and they dropped a new cps in it and he hasn't had the first problem since then. I know it's not how a cps normally acts, but it is still a possibility, best of luck getting it fixed

 

thats why i said get some codes before we toss some parts at it, but either way any 7.3 owner should carry a cps and a 10mm socket in the glove box

 

limped it up to the parts store and they put the code reader on it, but no codes--the light is not on now. i am going to let it sit for a while then check the hpop level. i was going to put a fuel filter on but any other time i had a filter problem the fuel filter light came on, that's not the case here. i think it's a high pressure oil problem either injector orings or the ipr orings.

 

parts stores have junk scanners...lol oh well, drive around a bit till it does it then if possible get it to them while the lights on, but i'd still bet your harness is melted

 

if the harness were fried i would have some cylinders missing. it doesn't sound like there is a miss in certain cylinders. they all fire, just real crappy. driving around is easier said than done. most of the time it will only crawl around in first gear at an idle. after running for a while it will rev up and get going but with low power. if i can the rpms above 1600 it runs better. if the rpms drop to an idle it takes forever for to get the engine back up to speed. that makes stopping at intersections hard and dangerous to be in traffic.

 

i can afford to go get the cps from the stealership. i think for under 30 bucks it's worth a try. i hate shooting blind, but without diagnostic equipment, that seems to be my only option.