9 inch brake drums
9 inch brake drums
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
You may have to back them all the way out if the drums are worn severely. They can have some pretty deep grooves that seem to hold them on forever. You might also have corrosion around the axle centering thingy. I have had to use the biggest 3 jaw puller I could find to get mine off before.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
The face of the drum is rust-welded to the axle.
Spray some penetrating oil (not WD-40, by the way) arond the center, and around each stud.
Rap the face between the studs fairly hard with the ball head of a ball peen hammer. Don't strike the cast iron circular rim too hard, you may shatter it.
Let it sit over night if necessary, with more penetrant.
Use a propane torch next. DON'T use an oxy-acetylene torch, as it is too hot (unless you really moderate the temperature).
Play the flame around the face of the drum, especially where the center part of the axle meets the hole in the drum, and around the studs. Every now and then, rap teh face of the drum again with the hammer. Don't overheat the drum, as you will warp it.
The purpose of the light heat is to make the drum face expand, but leave the axle cool - so the metal pieces pull away from each other.
Good luck!
Spray some penetrating oil (not WD-40, by the way) arond the center, and around each stud.
Rap the face between the studs fairly hard with the ball head of a ball peen hammer. Don't strike the cast iron circular rim too hard, you may shatter it.
Let it sit over night if necessary, with more penetrant.
Use a propane torch next. DON'T use an oxy-acetylene torch, as it is too hot (unless you really moderate the temperature).
Play the flame around the face of the drum, especially where the center part of the axle meets the hole in the drum, and around the studs. Every now and then, rap teh face of the drum again with the hammer. Don't overheat the drum, as you will warp it.
The purpose of the light heat is to make the drum face expand, but leave the axle cool - so the metal pieces pull away from each other.
Good luck!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,815
Likes: 248
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
Never had to use heat. Just a lot of penetrating oil, and hammers. I even use a dead blow so I don't ding the outer ring. Ball peen for around the lugs and axle. Just have to be patient. It took me 2-3 hrs to get the one off my 68. Was rust locked on the center ring. If you can fine some Krol, I think that the way is spelled. It was the best I have found on penetrating rust.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 224
Likes: 55
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Junior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
U might have to back them out. If they are like mine u can pop a grommet off the back and reach in there with a screwdriver and turn the star gear to back them off. U might have to use some pb blaster and still rap on it a bit
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
The front hub and drum separate - at least for '65 and later. I have heard that some earlier ones are one-piece, but I do not think that is the case with the Slicks.
I had to remove the hub and drum together to get them part.
I drove out the studs, and the drum finally popped off. It was rusted to the hub.
I had to remove the hub and drum together to get them part.
I drove out the studs, and the drum finally popped off. It was rusted to the hub.
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