Im having problems in removing the ball joint nut I canot remove them Ive even broken my breaker bar can I cut them off any advice

 

do you have the retaining clips removed? make DARN sure you are trying to remove them the correct way. also, are you using a press? that makes it 1,00000000000000000000 times easier!

-cutts-

 

hes not even to that point yet....

get a impact socket, a "real" breaker bar, 4' peice of pipe, and a 20lb sledge should get things budging...or just a good impact...and some pb blaster..

 

I had to use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with about a 4' pipe on it for one of the nuts on mine. like someone else said make sure the cotter pin is out before you try to take the nut off.

 

what moron wouldn't take the cotter pin out?

 

you would be surprised at how many wouldn't. I've watched a couple people do it over the years.

 

I was thinking the same thing.

Spray the heck out of it with some lube, get the biggest stuff you can find with a big/long breaker bar and give her he1L.
IF that doesn't work, do the same thing, but try hitting the end of the breaker bar with a sledge(to give it a good gult that presser might not work for).

 

> what moron wouldn't take the cotter pin out?

Someone that doesn't realize that is why it is a castle nut. Not knowing doesn't make someone a moron though.

Many times it might not be obvious. When I do a ball joint, I take both free ends and bend them back into the castle nut so they do not stick out and grab a brake line or worse me when I am greasing.

It would be easy enough for someone to not see the loop end if dirty and not see the split ends on the inner fender side I twisted into the castle nut with a needle nose.

> Im having problems in removing the ball joint nut I canot remove them
> Ive even broken my breaker bar can I cut them off any advice

You can cut them off (the stud part) if you remove them the ball joint later with a C clamp.

I do think the cotter pin has been left in though or part of it. Did you remove it?

If so, like someone else mentioned, get a 3/4" drive socket set and a big long bar.

FWIW: On light trucks (rangers, F-350, E-350 etc.) I have been able to remove all balljoints with a C-clamp ball joint remover, 1/2" impact gun (snap-on, blue point, or IR), and a impact socket as a cheap adapter.

What vehicle, what year, top (I assume) or bottom?

 

if ya have a big enuff impact that lil cotter pin dont stand a chance!

 

X2 NOT A CHANCE

 

sorry guys, i posted and thought he was referring to the ball joint itself. then after i realized what he was talking about i had to go

i have used a torch to cut the stuf of the ball joint off. however that was only b/c the previous owner didnt wanna use a cotter pin and welded the nut to the ball joint.

a hefty impact should do the trick. might even have to heat the nut up with a ace-oxy torch to get it to budge!

-cutts-

 

Nice!!!...he welded the nut!!??......hmm, that would work haha


chit if we've gone past the breaker bar stage and talkin torches you might as well just torch it off and not worry about it...i know that will get it off..haha

 

> if ya have a big enuff impact that lil cotter pin dont stand a chance!

True, but, I would still try to remove it as long as it wasn't under the nut.

> Nice!!!...he welded the nut!!??......hmm, that would work haha

I bought a BII a few years ago where the previous owner took an ARC welder to fix an exhaust leak and welded the pipe directly to the exhaust manifold. It fixed the leak for a while. I was sure glad I had a body lift on to fix that nightmare. Though, still worth the $300 for a running vehicle I put 30,000? miles on and used to drag firewood out of a swamp.

 

do you have acesss to a torch? if so cut it off without getting into the c....if not try all the methods above, if that doesnt work....can you get a cut off wheel in there somehow?

what axle are we working on

 

lol sounds like what i tried when removing my pinion

-cutts-