My codes (New Reader)
Here are the results...
KOEO....11
CM (after a 10 which is the separation code) 31,32,33.
I did the paper clip a while back and had only a 33 in CM( I think......i might have counted it wrong....was first time).....again got 11 on KOEO that time too.
Per my handy dandy new book......a 31 for a truck is a bad EGR Valve Control Sensor...but then it says (ex V-8's) Mines a V-8
32 is EGR pressure feedback fault (1985-89 models) Mines a 92.
33 EGR Valve fault/Not closing properly
soooo.......I have an EGR problem. Any ideas what to try first? It would make sense to me that the sensor might have gone bad because the CEL stays on now......never did before. If it goes bad does it cause the EGR valve not to close properly?
Any suggestions of where to start will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Bob
Any recommendations on one to buy? NAPA shows an OEM EVP for $37, not sure they carry it in stock though. Any idea about dealer cost?
EGR valve looks VERY expensive! $128 at NAPA???
Thanks again
Bob
That is why I said you may have a wire shorted to ground or the 5-Volt supply wire may be open.
You may have also lost the preload on the sensor also.
I would clean the valve and test it with a vacuum pump, it should be more than likely OK.
Check the voltages at the EVP sensor and make sure you have the 5 Volt reference voltage and there is voltage on the EVP wire going back to the PCM.
More information link.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35
For my old 89 F150... I bought an EGR from Napa that failed in 3 months returned it to have another one fail later that summer. I managed to get my money back from them and purchased one from Ford (it was actually a FORD part not a motorcraft) for about $60 more.
That EGR valve has been in the truck for 5+ years now... and no more code 33.
You might get lucky and just have a vacuum leak... I got a 33 code a few weeks back on my 94 and it turned out to be a bad vacuum connection at the EVR. A simple vacuum test saved me from buying another $200 valve.






