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i work for autozone what wait off oil you use? fords are known for blocked passageways so a thinner oil is needed try useing a 5w20 thats what the brand new fords are running
i work for autozone what wait off oil you use? fords are known for blocked passageways so a thinner oil is needed try useing a 5w20 thats what the brand new fords are running
That's really not going to help. Ford's didn't have problems with blocked passageways. That only occurs when you don't change the oil frequently or if you use crappy oil. Only use what the engine calls for in terms of oil. After miles and miles of service, it's ok to get a little thicker oil, but NEVER go thinner than what is suggested.
I had a similar problem with my Ranger also, right after an oil change. I drove it about 150 miles before the oil pressure gauge dropped and started losing power. I limped it halfway home and had to have it pulled the rest of the way. I thought the pickup was clogged on the sump, but just in case I put a new filter on, and the noise went away. That was about 15,000 miles ago and it was on the verge of locking up when it died.
This was also with a Motorcraft filter. However, it sat around in my garage for a month or two. My guess is moisture got inside and rusted the valve shut, or slightly open. You may want to change the filter out. Notice I drove 150 miles with the lifters tapping on startup before it started locking up.
I thought the last number determined the final weight of the oil? I was always taught that 5W30 for instance is 5W dino oil that performs like 30 weight due to the additives. If this is true, 5W30 and 10W30 are essentially the same weight wise, the difference being in the additives. I could be wrong, but that's what I've always been taught.
I've just read this thread and it seems to me, AZU, you probably have oil distributing problem and before doing something try to understend what and where nocks in your engine. Old medical phonendoscope may easily be used.
Ones I had strange nocking sound in my 3.0 (under the load only), but this sound was inside the tranny (1 bad tooth).
I thought the last number determined the final weight of the oil? I was always taught that 5W30 for instance is 5W dino oil that performs like 30 weight due to the additives. If this is true, 5W30 and 10W30 are essentially the same weight wise, the difference being in the additives. I could be wrong, but that's what I've always been taught.
The first number denotes the weight when cold, while the 2nd is when the oil is warm. You want 5w30, because it flows better while cold in your engine.
I have a 98 ranger 2.5L with 165,000 miles on it. It too knock's at idle when i use the recomended oil for it but i switched to 10W40 last year and it is much better now i hear nothing at idle after driving on the highway for a hour or so. I guess that will just happen when your comming up to 170,000 miles, things will ware with time. i live in NY and the outside tempature been about 10* when i wake up in the morning to go to work and the 10W40 oil does not seem to be a problem for me but it does stop the knock and i don't add oil between changes.
Last edited by 98Ranger2.5; Jan 29, 2008 at 06:36 AM.
The cause of the original problem was traced to bad gas as stated in an earlier post. As far as oil the stated oil in the owners book is 5w 30.
What I do is use 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 the rest of the year. I used the 5w30 all the time until I reached about 60K. Then I noticed a slight increase in oil consumption in warmer months and switched to 10w30 which pretty much stopped the consumption.
Right now I go through about 1/2- 1 quart every 5K miles.
I use 5w20 or 5w30 UP here in my 94 4.0 and while the engine has some probs I get no knock. At 178,000mi it still starts easy in -20 or colder temps. I prefer 5w20 at this time of year.
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