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Any suggestions, input would be appreciated. Made repairs, framed the repair area in masking paper, then primed. It's acylic enamel, and intend applying top coat tomorrow. Question is whether it would be best to remove the masking on the undamaged fender portion inorder to feather the paint for consistancy, or should I leave the masking tape/paper as is and remove once top coat has been applied and cured to the repaired area.
To do it correctly you should sand down the repair area wider than the effected area, do your repair and then just spot prime your repair. The entire fender then should be masked off and cleaned and sanded to rough up original paint and then repaint entire fender. If you have a molding that devides the fender into two sections then you could just paint up the molding.
Actually involves both fenders where 1 of them required body work so removed the fender, cleaned, sanded, repaired damaged area, about 6" square, but sanded and primed approx. 1/3 of the fender. Will take your suggestion, clean remainder of fender with the grease and wax remover, hit it w/ 320 grit paper, then apply top coat to entire fender. The other fender did not require any major repair, there was a spot about size of half dollar where the paint was removed; so, left the fender on the truck and cleaned, sanded, then primed the surface. Thought I would try removing the masking tape, clean the entire fender surface, sand effected area by feathering surfaces, then apply the top coat lightly trying to blend in the new top coat w/ old and see how it comes out. Thought I could deal with any inconsistancy with the color sanding down the road. It's a matter of time and did not plan to include on list of 'things needed to accomplish' before winter sets in, hopefully both fenders come out and don't have to deal with them again, if not, then, if time permits perhaps, i can pull the fender at later date and do a better job, but you know how that goes. Anyhow, appreciate the input.
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Aug 1, 2007 at 09:17 AM.
Painted fender and ended up with some 'orange peel', acylic enamel. Not sure, think may have set pressure 5 too low, 30-35 psi., hvlp gravity type paint gun. Anyhow, guess paint needs to set couple days then sand w/ 400 and try again. Understand, best to wait at least 30 days before color sanding.
Acrylic enamel. you have to watch recoat times, check the tech sheet, but should be much sooner with hardener added, Best to repaint entire fender, but need a good match not to notice difference. If attempting a spot repair, sand out past the repaired area with around 800=1000 and blend in, hit the edge of the blend after last coat with reducer or a blending solvent. Let sit out in sun and cure well and lightly buff the blend area. If metallic, sheet out of luck, spray the whole fender and live with what you sprayed. You may be right, not sure on your particular gun, but many hvlps still require a fairly high inlet pressure, or maybe needed more reduction for the gun to atomize better, or a slower reducer, or last on my suspect list would be too much fluid.
Appreciate the information. Browsed the post 'step by step paintwork' in this forum, if understand correctly, acrylic enamel has to cure thoroughly before able to correct the problem, in this case, the 'orange peel'. If the case, intend installing the fender for the period of time it needs to cure, then start with 400-600 grit sandpaper then hit it with another coat. I used a medium reducer, and a slow hardner, which was probably a mistake considering the high temp. Went and picked up some medium hardner for when I reshoot. I believe the mistake was setting the pressure at the gun too low, rather than 30-35 psi, it should have been around 45-50 psi. Not that knowledgeable, it was my first attempt at painting the truck few years back, satisfied with result, but found repairing is another subject.