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Newbie, need advice on buying a 1996 F250

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Old 07-31-2007, 06:44 PM
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Newbie, need advice on buying a 1996 F250

I have never been to this forum before, but found it in my quest for some unbiased information on older Ford trucks.

The last Ford truck I owned was a 1987 F150, in-line 6 cyl with a three-speed manual transmission, column shifter. It was ***** brown in color and was the perfect truck to own while in medical school, living in Boston and driving all over eastern and western Mass. Never had to worry about anyone crashing into me or breaking into the truck. It went for a long time with few problems. I finally finished it off by driving it from Boston to Crow, Montana in the middle of winter. While out there it developed a bad noise that sounded like a scored rod bearing, so I sold it to a Crow Native American for $500 which was enough dough to get me back home. Also, when I was in high school, my dad owned a '78 Bronco, and I had some of the best adventures of my youth in that.

Now to the present situation. I need a good solid work truck for my home in Maine. I have found a 1996 F250 XLT extended cab long bed 4X4 with 94,000 miles. Asking price is $5500. It has the 460 ci engine, auto trans with OD, tow package, looks like some HD front leaf springs, dual exhaust, tires with lots of tread left, and a soft tonneau cover. It was previously owned by an older couple who used it to haul a 5th wheel camper. The 5th wheel hitch has been removed. There is almost no rust on the body. The exhaust looks solid. I don't see any oil leaking underneath. Is this too good to be true?

I would use it for light-duty plowing in the winter (my driveway and a short private dirt road), for hauling firewood once or twice a year, and similar sorts of country home related projects. May need to haul a friend's tractor now and then. We have a 28 foot camper that is about 7000 lbs, but it is on a seasonal site and probably we probably won't be taking it on any long trips, but may need to move it now and then.

I am looking for advice from experienced Ford truck owners as to what kinds of gremlins to look for in this truck. If it checks out, does that seem like a fair price? KBB for this truck is around$5500 to $6200 depending on condition. Are there any predictable problems with Ford trucks from this year?

Thanks for whatever help you all can provide.
 
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:00 PM
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jump on it.

look underneath for hidden rust.

check the rear sping hangers and shackles for rust.

welcome to fte.
 
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:05 PM
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Welcome!

Sounds like a deal to me. The distances you will cover up there in Maine has me a bit concerned about the fuel it will drink, but with all those country-home related tasks, it's just right.
 
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:39 PM
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Thanks.
I think I will try to jump on it in the next few days. There is a very reliable local auto repair and tire shop run buy a guy I have known for years, and he and his sons own only Ford trucks. I am going to take it over to him and have him put it on the lift and check for gremlins underneath.

grey91: I have gone back and forth on the fuel consumption issue. My original plan was to get a diesel, and for a short while I actually owned a Cummins dually 1-ton. That thing was awesome, and it pulled our trailer like there was nothing there. But once we parked the trailer on the seasonal site I realized that I wouldn't need anything so expensive for long-distance hauling, so I sold it. Anyway it was RWD and I couldn't do anything useful with it in the winter, which around here lasts for up to 5 months. With all the money I can save by not buying another diesel, I can fill the gas tank and have beer money left over. Not to mention the fact that diesel fuel is usually 10%-20% more expensive than gas, and servicing a diesel engine is more expensive, so the cost tends to even out unless you are doing a lot of long distance hauling. Mostly I will be driving it shorter distances, 40 miles or less, on country roads with few stop lights.
I notice you are from Greenfield. I was born and grew up in Northampton. Played lacrosse for the Blue Devils, and Greenfield was one of our best rivals. Small world, ain't it?

Does anyone have opinions on how much life you can get out of Fords 460 engine if it is properly cared for?
 
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:44 PM
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On the subject of gas, for the price your paying, the gas tanks should be sound. They should be filled to the top to verify their integrity.
 
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by netscaner
On the subject of gas, for the price your paying, the gas tanks should be sound. They should be filled to the top to verify their integrity.
How does that work? Do you fill the tank and look underneath for leaks?
 
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:08 PM
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Yeah probably then see if they both work like one tank may not work due to the owner running the one for so long and not the other always run gas through both and switch once in a while
 
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:31 PM
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Right, and also might check to make sure that running one tank doesn't cause the other to gain gas from a defective check valve in return line of the unused tank.

Definately check for leaks.
 
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dustin1690
Yeah probably then see if they both work like one tank may not work due to the owner running the one for so long and not the other always run gas through both and switch once in a while
I think that's what happened with mine--it sat for a couple years, and then I filled the front tank (the one that doesn't work). How would I fix that? I don't want to have to install a new fuel pump, which is $255--plus $20 or so for some kind of adapter thing--from the dealer.
 
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Old 08-01-2007, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by countrydoc
Thanks.
II notice you are from Greenfield. I was born and grew up in Northampton. Played lacrosse for the Blue Devils, and Greenfield was one of our best rivals. Small world, ain't it?

Does anyone have opinions on how much life you can get out of Fords 460 engine if it is properly cared for?
(Quote edited for space, not because it wasn't important)
[a bit off topic but these small world things get my attention]


Northampton High School Class of 1981. What about you, Doc?

Or, my brother, NHS Class of 1975 and sister NHS Class of 1970.

* * *

As for the 460, should be a horse of a motor, cared for of course. But I'l leave it to those who have had one recently.
 
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:51 AM
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Lots of folks plow with those trucks, but the front end , TTB, is pretty weak for anyting but normal driving. I use mine kind of hard, but I broke enough parts on mine to justify installing an F350 ft end, with out ever using it to plow. I just bought a 94 F350 460 standard cab with a plow and it seems like the perfect truck for light plowing. Also it has 140k on it and runs smooth, doesnt leak, and it has an automatic which is also nice for plowing. Just my .02 worth, but owning both, I'd go with an F350.
 
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Old 08-01-2007, 09:29 PM
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Update: went and drove it tonight. Goes straight, no wobble in the steering. Tranny shifts smoothly and downshifts properly when I step on it. Engine starts right up and runs smoothly. Brakes are solid. Both tanks work, but didn't have time to fill them and run both for any length of time. The 4x4 seems to work ok in high and low, although I must have something to learn about shifting it in and out of 4wd. The manual locking hubs are smooth. I am a fan of manual locking hubs from way back.

Looked underneath briefly. All leaf springs are good. Leaf spring brackets seem solid. Usual surface rust to be expected on an 11 year old New England truck underneath, but all parts look solid. No fluid leaks that I could identify. Oil pan dry. Did not examine oil or tranny fluid. Shocks in rear look like they were replaced in the last few years. Feel of the suspension is solid, what I think a 3/4 ton truck should feel like. Tires are in excellent condition.

With regards to plowing, the front end on this thing looks beefy, with large leaf springs. Hard to imagine that the front end wouldn't do OK with a proper sized plow. I will have it checked before buying, though.

Gotta say it, though: having driven a diesel for 6 months, I have been spoiled. I just didn't feel the torque I was hoping for from the 460. No doubt it will be adequate for what I need, and there is no diesel worth buying that I can get for $5500. Maybe I just need to learn the RPI range where this engine makes better torque. I was driving it very gently tonight because it isn't mine, and I had three kids all under age 8 riding with me.

Plan is to bring it to a trusted mechanic who knows Ford trucks on Friday pm if he has time. Will check fluids, put on lift, inspect engine, etc. If time allows will fill both tanks. If no major repairs are obviously necessary then I think $5500 will be a fair price for this truck and will most likely take it.

Thanks for all the help and feedback you have been willing to give me as a newbie to this site. Will keep updated with posts. If I get it, and can get the digital camera working, will post some pics.
 
  #13  
Old 08-02-2007, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by countrydoc
There is no diesel worth buying that I can get for $5,500.
That price would get you a Diesel that's a notch above junk-yard fodder...if you're lucky. Sounds like it's time to trade cash for keys and title!
 
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Old 08-02-2007, 10:49 AM
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Check the GVWR on the door sticker...

1996 was before the SuperDutys, but Ford did make two different F250's:

Standard Duty and the Heavy Duty.

If the GVWR is over 8800 Lbs, then it is the F250HD and should be fine for light plowing.

You may also want to right down all the codes from the door sticker and then check out one of these links:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...r_Decoder.html
or
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...de_Chart_.html

Also, check for exhaust leaks on the right side manifold... These seem to be common on the 460's.

See if the dual exhuast is a true dual set-up or if it's a Cat back set-up, with a single Cat. If it's a single Cat, have your mechanic do an exhaust backpressure test, if possible. The Cat on my 460 got plugged and just killed the HP/torque...

Hope it all works out for you.
 
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Old 08-04-2007, 08:23 AM
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Well, I got schooled in all the things that go bad on Ford trucks if they are not cared for properly.
The truck had some decent body work done so it looked good on the outside. The right rear quarter panel had been replaced and the left rear had been repaired. The pickup bed had new-looking mounting bolts, suggesting it had been taken off or replaced for some reason. There were no reported accidents on the Carfax report, but why would the bed have to be removed?
Turns out that the first owner was a hardwood flooring contractor in Vermont, and thats were 75K of the 95K miles got put on, probably not nice miles. Then it pulled a fifth wheel after that.
The tires looked new, but they were P-rated tires which in Maine are not legal on 3/4-ton and heavier trucks. Failed inspection before it even got on the lift.
It turns out that it was the 8800 GCVW rated truck.
The radiator support mounts on the front of the frame were rusted through and getting ready to break. I would have to replace those at some large expense before it could safely take a plow.
The oil filter hadn't been changed in a long long time.
The freeze plugs were very rusty and were looking ready to crack.
The front differential was leaking fluid and the gasket was visible and cracked. The rear diff was leaking some fluid also.
The power steering was losing power and there was way too much play in the steering.
Several of the leaf spring mounts were severely rusted and looking like they were ready to let go if loaded.
Most of the fuel lines were rusted and pitted and needing replacement. The tanks didn't leak, though, and both worked, but the rust on the tanks was severe and the rear one didn't look like it would survive another winter.
The rear drum brakes needed overhauling. Several of the brake lines were looking shabby and ready to crack or leak.
The mechanic who looked at it has owned and fixed Ford trucks since he started driving. He has seen worse, but not much worse.
Spent: $80 to fill both tanks, $16 for the mechanical inspection, 1.5 hours of my time.
Saved: $3000-$4000 in repairs on a truck valued at $5000 if in good condition.
Back to the drawing board.
 


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