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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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So if anyone cares.. this is what the 80s Ford truck hood cable looks like when attached to the dash. Works perfect. Holes matched the dash mounting holes even.

http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...t=100_1634.jpg



I also added some carpeted kick panels I got on eBay. My truck HAD them at one time, but not in the past 10 years at least.

http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...t=100_1633.jpg


It's coming slowly.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 08:57 PM
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looks good. did you use an 80s hood latch too for the cable?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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The hood latch actually came from a 78 F150.. The cable in the truck was cut in two.
I did find a van with a nice locking cable setup.. but the van cable is too short. I also found a TRUCK with the same locking cable.. but the handle looks awful.. I need to find out of the handles can be swapped around on them. Did I mention both are locked and I have no keys? lol
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 11:23 PM
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I have mentioned several times that Van cables are too short for F-series

Hood Lock handle ?

You can have the lock keyed to whatever ford key you have.

Just remove it and take it to a locksmith. Should be about $12.00 and this includes 2 keys
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
I have mentioned several times that Van cables are too short for F-series

Hood Lock handle ?

You can have the lock keyed to whatever ford key you have.

Just remove it and take it to a locksmith. Should be about $12.00 and this includes 2 keys
Yah, that's why I didn't grab the van cable. However, the actual locking handle, attached to the dash, looks identical to the truck piece.. ideally the cables can be swapped... put the nice van handle on the truck cable.

I've got a glove box lock sitting here I was going to have keyed, but I figured I'd wait until I see what I'm doing with the hood cable.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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They are crimped inside the handle so if it breaks inside...it's file 19.

The only alternative I know of is a cable splice with cable clamps.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 12:37 PM
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Doh! Ah well. I *could* just clean, sand and repaint the actual truck handle black.. But... But... I wanted chrome ::whining::.

Thanks for the heads up.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 12:45 PM
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Looks good, I did the same with my 77. It is surprising how much road noise this cuts out. People are surprised when they ride in my truck at how tight it sounds. I took the seat out and ran carpet all the way to and up the rear bulkhead. What a difference it made. If I could only get rid of the darn wind noise.

I notice that you have dealer air in yours as well. Mine doesn't work to well. Would you comment as to how well yours works.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by wb6vvv
Looks good, I did the same with my 77. It is surprising how much road noise this cuts out. People are surprised when they ride in my truck at how tight it sounds. I took the seat out and ran carpet all the way to and up the rear bulkhead. What a difference it made. If I could only get rid of the darn wind noise.

I notice that you have dealer air in yours as well. Mine doesn't work to well. Would you comment as to how well yours works.
I always thought dealer air had an extra **** on the dash near the glove box? My controls are all integrated in one panel.. In any case, if you recall (saw my first set of posts).. My father owned the truck from 1998 to 2002. We did a few (sigh) engine swaps in it, ending up with a 460. A/C always worked perfect in it. Idler pulley was a bit noisy. When the truck needed a heater core, we had it swapped over to 134A. Again, no issues at all. Could freeze my cojones off. I bought the truck back in June.. IDIOT owner after my father pulled the compressor... said "it made noise"..

Sigh..

I imagine if I reinstall the compressor, it'll be fine. At least he gave me the compressor, heh.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by psquare7575
I always thought dealer air had an extra **** on the dash near the glove box? My controls are all integrated in one panel.. In any case, if you recall (saw my first set of posts).. My father owned the truck from 1998 to 2002. We did a few (sigh) engine swaps in it, ending up with a 460. A/C always worked perfect in it. Idler pulley was a bit noisy. When the truck needed a heater core, we had it swapped over to 134A. Again, no issues at all. Could freeze my cojones off. I bought the truck back in June.. IDIOT owner after my father pulled the compressor... said "it made noise"..

Sigh..

I imagine if I reinstall the compressor, it'll be fine. At least he gave me the compressor, heh.
No mine is original from the dealer in 1977. It has the two ***** right on the panel just like yours. One is the fan speed and the other one is the temp control. The idler and tensioner pulleys need to have the bearings replaced occasionally. The front alternator bearing is the same bearing that goes into both pulleys. Just go to the parts house and ask for an alternator front bearing. If you tell them you need an idler pulley bearing they will look at you with a vacant stare. Also check the alignment of the belt. I had to adjust both the tension pulley and the idler pulley to get the belt to run straight. I also had to elongate the compressor mount holes so that I could get the compressor pulley to line up with the crank pulley. I used different thickness washers to get the idler and tension pulleys to line up. Once I got the belt to run straight the noise went away. That belt slapping against those pulleys can make a horrendous noise.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 04:45 PM
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Of course, all I have for parts that he gave me back is the heavy base bracket, and the compressor.. No top bracket/idler pulley. I'll hook the A/C back up probably once I'm done playing under the hood, it'll just get in the way for now. It was a *little* noisy. Some people shouldn't have access to tools.

At least he put nifty orange zip ties to hold the hoses together.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 08:02 PM
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Yeah it looks great coming along nicely
 
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