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So if anyone cares.. this is what the 80s Ford truck hood cable looks like when attached to the dash. Works perfect. Holes matched the dash mounting holes even.
The hood latch actually came from a 78 F150.. The cable in the truck was cut in two.
I did find a van with a nice locking cable setup.. but the van cable is too short. I also found a TRUCK with the same locking cable.. but the handle looks awful.. I need to find out of the handles can be swapped around on them. Did I mention both are locked and I have no keys? lol
I have mentioned several times that Van cables are too short for F-series
Hood Lock handle ?
You can have the lock keyed to whatever ford key you have.
Just remove it and take it to a locksmith. Should be about $12.00 and this includes 2 keys
Yah, that's why I didn't grab the van cable. However, the actual locking handle, attached to the dash, looks identical to the truck piece.. ideally the cables can be swapped... put the nice van handle on the truck cable.
I've got a glove box lock sitting here I was going to have keyed, but I figured I'd wait until I see what I'm doing with the hood cable.
Looks good, I did the same with my 77. It is surprising how much road noise this cuts out. People are surprised when they ride in my truck at how tight it sounds. I took the seat out and ran carpet all the way to and up the rear bulkhead. What a difference it made. If I could only get rid of the darn wind noise.
I notice that you have dealer air in yours as well. Mine doesn't work to well. Would you comment as to how well yours works.
Looks good, I did the same with my 77. It is surprising how much road noise this cuts out. People are surprised when they ride in my truck at how tight it sounds. I took the seat out and ran carpet all the way to and up the rear bulkhead. What a difference it made. If I could only get rid of the darn wind noise.
I notice that you have dealer air in yours as well. Mine doesn't work to well. Would you comment as to how well yours works.
I always thought dealer air had an extra **** on the dash near the glove box? My controls are all integrated in one panel.. In any case, if you recall (saw my first set of posts).. My father owned the truck from 1998 to 2002. We did a few (sigh) engine swaps in it, ending up with a 460. A/C always worked perfect in it. Idler pulley was a bit noisy. When the truck needed a heater core, we had it swapped over to 134A. Again, no issues at all. Could freeze my cojones off. I bought the truck back in June.. IDIOT owner after my father pulled the compressor... said "it made noise"..
Sigh..
I imagine if I reinstall the compressor, it'll be fine. At least he gave me the compressor, heh.
I always thought dealer air had an extra **** on the dash near the glove box? My controls are all integrated in one panel.. In any case, if you recall (saw my first set of posts).. My father owned the truck from 1998 to 2002. We did a few (sigh) engine swaps in it, ending up with a 460. A/C always worked perfect in it. Idler pulley was a bit noisy. When the truck needed a heater core, we had it swapped over to 134A. Again, no issues at all. Could freeze my cojones off. I bought the truck back in June.. IDIOT owner after my father pulled the compressor... said "it made noise"..
Sigh..
I imagine if I reinstall the compressor, it'll be fine. At least he gave me the compressor, heh.
No mine is original from the dealer in 1977. It has the two ***** right on the panel just like yours. One is the fan speed and the other one is the temp control. The idler and tensioner pulleys need to have the bearings replaced occasionally. The front alternator bearing is the same bearing that goes into both pulleys. Just go to the parts house and ask for an alternator front bearing. If you tell them you need an idler pulley bearing they will look at you with a vacant stare. Also check the alignment of the belt. I had to adjust both the tension pulley and the idler pulley to get the belt to run straight. I also had to elongate the compressor mount holes so that I could get the compressor pulley to line up with the crank pulley. I used different thickness washers to get the idler and tension pulleys to line up. Once I got the belt to run straight the noise went away. That belt slapping against those pulleys can make a horrendous noise.
Of course, all I have for parts that he gave me back is the heavy base bracket, and the compressor.. No top bracket/idler pulley. I'll hook the A/C back up probably once I'm done playing under the hood, it'll just get in the way for now. It was a *little* noisy. Some people shouldn't have access to tools.
At least he put nifty orange zip ties to hold the hoses together.