Rustproofing
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Rustproofing
Last weekend, I changed my transmission and transfer case fluids and "test" removed my spare tire.....net-net, I spent a lot of time on my back looking up at the bottom of my truck and I saw a lot of corrosion and rusting particularly above the spare. I have owned the truck for 3-1/2 years and the truck's original home was NH. Here, they use lots of salt in the winters on the road and I expect the corrosion to only worsen. In NH, they use mostly sand, so rusing is not as serious a problem. From what I can see the truck has not had any rustproofing.
What can I do to slow down the corrosion? Should I take it to a rustproofer to apply undercoating? And if the base corrosion is not removed, won't it continue (albeit slower) beneath any undercoating? The truck is running great, I don't put many miles on it (most of the travel is local), and I plan to keep it a long time. But I fear it could start to have rust-through on the bed panels and once that begins, you usually can't control it. If I am going to do any undercoating, I would like to do it in the summer months so it can cure good before the winter season arrives.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Pat
What can I do to slow down the corrosion? Should I take it to a rustproofer to apply undercoating? And if the base corrosion is not removed, won't it continue (albeit slower) beneath any undercoating? The truck is running great, I don't put many miles on it (most of the travel is local), and I plan to keep it a long time. But I fear it could start to have rust-through on the bed panels and once that begins, you usually can't control it. If I am going to do any undercoating, I would like to do it in the summer months so it can cure good before the winter season arrives.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Pat
More Turbo
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 544
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From: BC, Canada
I wouldn't apply that thick tar-like black undercoating to the rust, but rustproofer would be ok imo. Eastwood makes a Anti-rust spray that is applied to the exposed metal surfaces. I think it even comes in a black color for surfaces that you can see (if you're down on your back). You can buy the spraying equipment and diy once a year if you what to save $.
...Terry
...Terry
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Elder User
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Yea, I really don't want the tar and pitch stuff. Glad to hear there is a choice. I'll check out Eastwood product. Looks like they have a kit for $140. Thanks.
Any other ideas?
Any other ideas?
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Cuba, Missouri
I've been working on my "new" 98 and doing a little painting myself. I find for rear end, front end, and other metal Krylon Rust Tough paint works and holds up well. And I shoot the frame with spray bedliner in a rattle can. I've done this on my last 3 and it holds up really well.
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Carlsbad
Careful if the area you're spraying that bedliner w/ isn't already painted. That spray-on bedliner is typically porous and you can get a layer of moistier underneath it.....bad news on bare metal.........
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Originally Posted by MattyF
There's a products called "Rust Bullet". I had great luck w/ it for my Jeep.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Ohio
Never heard of the rust bullet stuff but their website says it can be applied with HVLP sprayer, brush or roller, so it does not appear to be limited to pros:
http://www.rustbullet.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCat_P.asp?idCategory=120
Most anyone who cares and owns a older snow belt Ranger will likely tell you dealing with preserving the underside is an annual ritual of scraping, applying rust converter and painting. The one thing I've heard NOT to do is use undercoat directly over rust, you are only sealing it in and making it worse. So every year I get under and scrape and paint as needed, spray where I can, brush where I'm close to hoses, fuel lines, springs etc. I drop the spare every year and give it a clean and paint. If you don't stay after the spare carrier it will seize up on you and not come down when you need it, or the bolt holding the spare in place will rust solid. Usually a weekend project once a year. So I guess IMO your best bet is the same approach, though it would be nice to hear from someone that the rust bullet really is better as they claim.
http://www.rustbullet.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCat_P.asp?idCategory=120
Most anyone who cares and owns a older snow belt Ranger will likely tell you dealing with preserving the underside is an annual ritual of scraping, applying rust converter and painting. The one thing I've heard NOT to do is use undercoat directly over rust, you are only sealing it in and making it worse. So every year I get under and scrape and paint as needed, spray where I can, brush where I'm close to hoses, fuel lines, springs etc. I drop the spare every year and give it a clean and paint. If you don't stay after the spare carrier it will seize up on you and not come down when you need it, or the bolt holding the spare in place will rust solid. Usually a weekend project once a year. So I guess IMO your best bet is the same approach, though it would be nice to hear from someone that the rust bullet really is better as they claim.
New User
Joined: Aug 2007
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There is a product called Fluid Film. Comes in a spray can with a straw to get in hard to reach areas. Stuff is amazing and won't wash off with water. I used it on an old rusty dodge for years and the rust never really got worse.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Ohio
What else is amazing is the stuff you learn on this forum, like new products. I just ordered some of the Fluid Film as there are some places on the truck that no matter what I do I can't keep the rust from stopping. Behind the grille, for example, the radiator support frame. I may just goop the spots over with the stuff. They don't show. FYI, I ordered it online http://www.kellsportproducts.com/home.html. This place had the lowest price. At least to where I live, the shipping cost did not change whether you ordered 2 or 3 cans, so I ordered 3.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Southeast Ga.
I've used something called Ospho, available from Ace Hardware. It's a liquid the consistency of water so you can spray it with any spray bottle. It actually causes a chemical reaction that changes iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate. Not only does the chemical change stop the rust, it turns black and leaves a decent surface to apply paint if you choose to.
Elder User
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From: Ohio
Lots of rust converters out there, the Rust Bullet people claim theirs is the best. As a follow up to my post on ordering the Fluid Film from the website mentioned, the place is fast. Fifteen minutes after getting the email receipt I got another email saying the order was just shipped fed ex ground. Can't beat that.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Ohio
As a follow up, the Fluid Film came in from the online place mentioned in my prior post above was delivered this morning by Fed Ex. Less than two days and it was at my door. Going to give it a go this weekend on some of the trouble spots on the truck and see what happens.
New User
Joined: Aug 2007
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Fluid Film
Forgot to mention that it's also great for electrical connections and to keep moisture off spark plug wires. (I've never had any problems with it eating rubber coating or otherwise.) I had a 2000 Dodge Durango that, one day, the dash lit up with ABS trouble, as well as Brake light indicator, and check engine light. I took it to a dealer who said the main ABS pump unit was shot...$1,000 just for the part. I took it to another dealer who said yep that was the problem. I said well I don't really need ABS and drove it for a year without. I later talked to a mechanic who's worked on Dodges for years who told me to check the rear speed sensor located on the top of the rear differential, as sometimes it will get corroded. I dropped the spare tire and found the sensor, unplugged it and inspected...seemed dry, no visible signs of corrosion. I said oh well looks like I'm in for an expensive ABS unit. To make a long story short...just for kicks I squirted some Fluid Film in the sensor and plugged it in and out a few times and left it. Without a word of a lie, two days later, the ABS and parking brake light went off and everything worked great!