Hey guys; I've just recently learned that Ford SVO has a 600cid short-block kit available... a 460 stroker. Now, since I've been wanting to build a '23 T-bucket, I thought here's the perfect powerhouse for a T! So, early this summer, I'll begin building the engine, then build the car around the roll-cage and engine.
I'm looking to build a Full Drag engine, for show and 'vard only. I was thinking the biggest cam I could find, valve/head job, BIG blower, 200 or 300 shot of No2; and EVERYTHING done in chrome or stainless. I'd like to break 1000HP with this engine...
Any suggestions?

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

Ford also has a new crate motor.
514 cu in
600 hp @6250 rpm
590 ft/lbs @4750 rpm
part # M-6007-B514
price $6,895.00

 

As in Ford Motor Company sells this crate motor or who?

Daywalker
92' F-250 351 4x4 xlt 4.10 5spd supercab longbed

 

Ford Motorsport sells these motors. Pick up an SVO catalog (or SVT, or Motorsport, don't know what they call 'em these days) at a dealer (or Summit, Jeg's sells them from their catalogs).

1989 F-150 : 5.0, shorty headers, Flowmaster cat-back, K&N filtercharger intake, March pulleys, "Multi-brand" performance ignition, soon to be Mass-Air...doesn't know she's not a Mustang

 

Wow, 1000hp in a '23 T? How do you plan to keep it on the ground? Or is it going to be sponsered by NASA?

Roger Lane
Test Analyst
Sr. Automated Test Engineer
IBP, Inc.

 

With 600 cubes you could break 1000 hp pretty easy with a set of "Yates" heads. A friend of mine is currently making right at 900 hp with a 488 cid naturally aspirated with a set of these heads. They flow like 500 intake and 375 exhaust, out of the box. Nothing makes hp like they do. They are an expensive set-up, including rockers, valves and all, but they should be cheaper than NO2 and a blower and everything else put together.

 

I was thinking of SVO Hemi heads for a 460 block...

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

Wish I had your budget to build the engine for my mud truck :-)

 

Budget?? I'm gonna need an explanation for that one!
This engine will probably take me the better part of 18 months to build...

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

By budget ,I meant that some of the parts you plan to use are quite expensive. The 600 ci short block is close to $7000 alone and I don't know what the heads sell for. I plan on building a 520 for my truck and spending around 3500 dollars.

 

Speaking of budget, have you run this past the appropriation committe (wife) first? ;-)

DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.

 

That kind of HP from a mountain motor is relatively easy (aside from the dollars it takes). A 520 was built for our NMCA car a few years ago, and with no blower it made 625hp on the dyno, a 400 hp staged NOS system got us over a thousand with no ill effects other than finding weak points in the car (back window, roofline, doorjams,etc.). It pounded the car pretty hard. I have to admit, 4" flowmaster exhaust sounds incredible when you can shake neighbors windows two houses down the street!

 

I understand the cost involved; thus the long period of building time... I was just asking about the best components to use for Big HP- any ideas?

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

Keeping in mind this is just my opinion....Spare no cost on your rotating mass, crankshaft and rods are going to be taking the majority of the abuse, stay away from aluminum rods on the street due to lack of longevity. Plenty of arguments to be had about rods, I personally used Manley H-beams with no problems. Next would be bolts, I know it sounds odd but if you can't hold it together, all the trick parts in the world mean nothing. ARPs are the industry standard. Next would be the oiling system, as above, don't cut corners here, think dry sump. Next on my list would be meticulous block prep, oil galleys and lifter valleys get smoothed to let oil flow back to the bottom faster, ALL casting flash gets removed, all holes get chamfered to reduse the possibilitys of stress fractures and cracking due to heat. Camshaft and valvetrain without a doubt will be roller, have a cam ground for the project taking into account EVERYTHING about the vehicle, compression, blower, nitrous, whatever. Heads....all in the money you have left to spend, sky's the limit here. But opt for good valves (Manley?) and cut for o-rings when the block is done. Plenty more when you get all that done.
Chris