Power Window Gremlins
Power Window Gremlins
Hello,
First post here, looks like a great site.
I have a '92 F150 2wd with only 81K as it rarely gets driven much... The driver's side window has been making squealing noises for a while and a couple of days ago jammed in the open position. I managed to close it by hauling on the glass while pushing the button. I can hear the motor running really quickly and it'll go down OK but sticks on the way up. I'd appreciate any advice where to start and if there's any tricks to removing the trim panel from the door.
Thanks,
Matthew
First post here, looks like a great site.
I have a '92 F150 2wd with only 81K as it rarely gets driven much... The driver's side window has been making squealing noises for a while and a couple of days ago jammed in the open position. I managed to close it by hauling on the glass while pushing the button. I can hear the motor running really quickly and it'll go down OK but sticks on the way up. I'd appreciate any advice where to start and if there's any tricks to removing the trim panel from the door.
Thanks,
Matthew
It sounds like the nylon gears in the motor have bit the bullet. Its a easy rebuild if your up for it. I own a '90 f150 and Im assuming the setup is similar.
To remove the door panel there are two screws, one inside the armrest grab area, the other is in the top righthand corner inside the hole you'll see. The rest of the panel is held on by nylon push plugs. Start on the bottom left corner carefully lifting the panel away from the door. A sturdy paint scraper or putty knife is what I use to assist. There are 3 plugs going up the side of the door and I believe 3 across the bottom, and two on the right. Once you pull it free you'll have to lift it up. While holding the inside door handle up from behind the panel lift it to completely free it. You only have to remove the top section of the door trim, the bottom section w/map pocket can stay in place.
The wires for the window/lock controls will still be connected as you pull the panel away from the door. there is 3 screws securing the switches to the face plate that you can remove from the backside if needed. I have also removed the switches still connected to the face plate by pushing the whole assembly forward through the door panel and then turning it and sliding back through the hole.
You can work around the door panel but its better to remove it completely.
If this is the first time the motor has been worked on you'll have to drill holes in the interior of the door (1/2" drill bit) to access the bolts holding the motor. Look for dimples or punch marks in the door for where to drill. 3 bolts hold the motor in place. Once you have the motor out there is one bolt next to the gear you remove. Remove the cover plate, this will expose the nylon gear. There should be 3 nylon rollers around the nylon gear. Check for damage to these and the gear itself. A rebuild kit is available at most auto parts stores. If you decide to replace the motor instead of rebuilding spend the couple of extra bucks and get the one with a lifetime warrenty. Ive replaced the passenger side 4x and driver side 3x in 17 years before I got smart.
B
To remove the door panel there are two screws, one inside the armrest grab area, the other is in the top righthand corner inside the hole you'll see. The rest of the panel is held on by nylon push plugs. Start on the bottom left corner carefully lifting the panel away from the door. A sturdy paint scraper or putty knife is what I use to assist. There are 3 plugs going up the side of the door and I believe 3 across the bottom, and two on the right. Once you pull it free you'll have to lift it up. While holding the inside door handle up from behind the panel lift it to completely free it. You only have to remove the top section of the door trim, the bottom section w/map pocket can stay in place.
The wires for the window/lock controls will still be connected as you pull the panel away from the door. there is 3 screws securing the switches to the face plate that you can remove from the backside if needed. I have also removed the switches still connected to the face plate by pushing the whole assembly forward through the door panel and then turning it and sliding back through the hole.
You can work around the door panel but its better to remove it completely.
If this is the first time the motor has been worked on you'll have to drill holes in the interior of the door (1/2" drill bit) to access the bolts holding the motor. Look for dimples or punch marks in the door for where to drill. 3 bolts hold the motor in place. Once you have the motor out there is one bolt next to the gear you remove. Remove the cover plate, this will expose the nylon gear. There should be 3 nylon rollers around the nylon gear. Check for damage to these and the gear itself. A rebuild kit is available at most auto parts stores. If you decide to replace the motor instead of rebuilding spend the couple of extra bucks and get the one with a lifetime warrenty. Ive replaced the passenger side 4x and driver side 3x in 17 years before I got smart.
B
Last edited by Liemavick; Jul 25, 2007 at 10:39 AM.
Power window issues
I'm having the same problem myself on a 92 Ford F150. I have four rivets on mine. Do I drill out all four rivets? Second, I have the window is lowered all the way down. Should I raise it up all the way?
I just did both of mine for the first time. You do not have to drill out any rivets, there will be 2 dimples on the door that you can drill out with a 1/2" bit and then you can access both of these bolts thru those holes, the other one I could access without drilling. When you take the motor out, remove the cover and then be sure to clean all the grease and bits of nylon from the 3 little pegs that are now in many, many pieces. The rebuild you can get most any parts store. It really may appear more difficult that it is, but once I did the passenger door, I bet it did not take me 30 minutes to do the drivers door. Go for it, the Ford place is a bit crazy over them charging for replacing the whole regulator. Fogot part of it, you will need to take the window to the top when you start to acess everything, then I held mine in place with a wedge while I worked on the motor.


