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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Dang These Old Efi Electronics!!!!!!

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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 12:17 AM
  #16  
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Turning over fast = no compression, IE timing is off/bent valvs/burnt valves/no valves.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 12:28 AM
  #17  
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Don't ignore the code the computer is giving you. A PIP code is serious, and is probably why it won't start. The TFI module was replaced, but what about the sensor inside the dist, and what about the wiring going to the TFI module?
 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 12:45 AM
  #18  
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*sigh

i really dont know, i havent had the time to mess with it in about a week, plus the fact that my dad isnt there, he comes back in like a day or two, so we're going to dive into it by the end of this week!

hopefully it wont be that serious, cause im already ticked that im reduced to driving a chevy!
 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 08:56 AM
  #19  
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Let me re-word that. The problem could be a simple wiring problem or a problem in the distributor.

What I meant by serious is, a lot of codes from the computer will tell you something is wrong, and give you driveability problems, but the engine will still run, just not run that well. A PIP code can make the engine not run at all. So it's "serious" enough to make the engine not run.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 09:15 AM
  #20  
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oh no i get what your saying i was just saying that i havent had really much time to check it out, i was just going by what my dad said, and seeing is how hes all the across the state right now, its kinda hard to get him to help me fix it! haha but thanks though!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 12:23 AM
  #21  
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ok soo...

ok so theres this black cylinder, dont know what its called, wires and stuff are connecting to it and a wire coming from the back of it connects to this plastic thing and its broke off!, so help please!!!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 05:29 AM
  #22  
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that is your egr solendoid balve and controls your egr valve. If it's not working, your turck will run like crap/.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 06:00 AM
  #23  
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well....

THANKS that probably is the problem, the egr was froze up but we fixed it so that might be part of the problem, so thanks again! dad just got home last night so, hopefully
 
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:25 AM
  #24  
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The egr will make it run rough, but will not be the cause of a no start problem. Run the codes and again and see if that PIP error is still there. Don't get off track.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 12:51 PM
  #25  
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we know whats wrong Hopefully

well probably whats wrong is the egr valve is messed up with that plastic piece broke off, its a vacuum and now we think that its jumped time (again) we just had the timing chain replaced less than a 1,000 miles ago, but we think that when the truck backfired when it blew out the mufflers that it may have caused it to jump the timing, which would explain it not cutting off immediately but waiting until i had stopped at a stop light. so best of hopes when we work on it come late september, unless it cools off really soon, and really fast, cause i personally dont want my dad working in 105 + degree weather, and its funny cause he doesnt either
 
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 05:59 PM
  #26  
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Sounds like the main things you need to check are the fuel pressure regulator for the "rich" problem and probably replace the distributor body. The pickup inside the dist body will cause all kinds of weird things to happen like dying when slowing down to a stop and the loss of PIP signal. Another thing is, as it heats up, the truck will feel like it's running out of gas.
Something I just found out myself, after putting up with it since 1987, is the connector pins on the computer (under the dash just to the right of the steering column in '86). I cleaned and reseated the connector and I couldn't believe the difference in power and general running! There is another connector between the engine and firewall somewhere that's supposed to have been a problem for that year too but I haven't gotten into that yet. Apparently Ford sells an upgraded connector with longer wires or something too.

I bypassed my EGR once by making a solid gasket without a hole except for the bolts. It eliminated that from the problem solving.

The distributor at Autozone was something like 70 bucks. You can buy the TFE(?) itself but they can be a bear to install (you have to take the dist all apart) and they're still about 50 bucks as I recall so it's was easier to just buy the whole distributor with the new unit already installed. It doesn't come with the ignition module though so you have to use your old one.

Harbor Freight had a fuel pressure gauge kit for pretty cheap.

Good luck

JohnF
 
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