Hi everyone, I'm new to the site, but never the less, I need help. I have a 1994 f250 xlt two wheel drive, 7.3l IDI Turbo, with the E4OD auto trans. I am very mechanically inclined, and have done many tough repairs, but this one has stumped me. I got a new injector pump and injectors from the US. Great deal. I followed all instructions to the "T". I pressure washed the engine to keep dirt out, I capped, I cleaned , all went well. I set the timing mark bang on. It started fine but runs fast, say 1100 rpm. I backed the Idle off all the way. Now I have 900 rpm no less. I have moved the pump clock wise facing the truck and had no luck except progressively running worse the farther I get from the mark. No rpm drop though? I should be at 650rpm, warm. I did turn counterclockwise about 1mm, but it idled real bad so I went the other way. Also, I have the E4OD transmission, and when I hooked up the batteries and started the truck the overdrive off light on the shifter started flashing, and now the transmission is brain dead, it won't shift right, shifts when it likes at any speed, and shifts hard. What the heck is going on. How can the tranny take a dump on a pump install, and why can't I get the Idle down. The screw is all the way out and I got 900 rpm all the time, even in gear it picks back up to 900rpm. Please help, I'm stumped. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

I just put on a new pump and injectors on my 94' turbo and was given a couple of tips by the guy who built my pump.
1) tps can be installed wrong not allowing full throatal movement, make sure it is installed same as old pump. if it is way out of position it will throw a code.
2) did you check voltage at the tps it will change your shift points alot,
3) double check these and pull battery cables to clear the code and retry.

 

Who installed the FIPL (TPS)....... ensure the blade on the IP is correctly installed. I will PM you the adjustment instructions for FIPL..... posted a ton of times here.

 

Thanks guys, the position was slightly out on the electric thingy. So I loaded it slightly by turning it, and now it works great. But the idle is still high on the new pump. I'm moving it another degree counter clock wise, since I'm real close and its running awsome, except for 900 rpm at idle. I hope it brings it down, as I'm not sure how far it will go. I went the other way about 4 mm and it started running bad and not starting good , so now I went counter clockwise about 1mm past center. it runs real good. I think maybe 1mm or slightly less might get the idle down where I have some adjustment. what do you guys think?

 

If your truck is still cold while checking adjustments, you will need to disconnect the high idle soliniod to get the idle speed down, also the cold advance is energized, make sure the truck is warmed up so that both of these items are de-energized and in the truck warm postion. The plunger on the high idle soliniod may be wound out to far if you cannot get the idle down around 650.

 

I checked all settings warm. The high idle solenoid is backed off all the way and there is about a 2mm gap between it and the throttle. The idle screw is backed all the way out. I think I need to turn the pump about 1mm more to get the idle down. I tried when I first put the pump in , but I went alittle further than the 1mm more. It smoked and sputtered, but smoothed when I rev it a bit. I bailed and turned the other way with no luck till I started coming back. I think if I go almost to that sputter point, and turn up the idle screw it will smooth out. My old pump is still adjusted like it was and the idle screw is turned up a bit, and the soleniod was turn out too, so I think I am close to timed properly, but not quite enough to get the idle down. I'll let ya know what happens. Any other suggestions let me know please.

 

If you unhook the throttle cable from the IP will the RPM go down?
You may have to adjust the bracket that holds the cable.

 

NO, the rpm will not go down with the cable off. Its max'd out. I havn't moved the timing yet, but its looking like thats the ticket. where it is now it chugs and smokes if I go about 1.5mm more, so I figure 1mm more and turn up the Idle to like it was on the old pump, and it should smooth out. I know when it was smoking I hit he throttle and it when like a bat out of hell, so I think the Idle may have been to low for the correct timing, and the timing I have now is smooth, but too fast. It still doesn't quite start as quick as it should when hot, so I figure it is the timing. I'll let ya know. please keep the suggestions coming as the process of elimination is working. Thanks guys

 

I had a little problem timing mine, at first i had smoke at idle and a power stroke rattle the mark on pump toward pass. side about 2 mm. I took it to a shop they timed it and now the mark is about 4 mm to drivers side no smoke and it runs great. But in all of my adjusting of the timing i did not notice much idle change.

 

I think i might have this same problem, i just did the IP and GP's and it doesn't start when its cold and when it does start with some ether the idle fluctuates slightly and then the transmission has just started to shift really hard, could all of this be related to the IP? or could I be in for some other problem? It runs a high idle as well with screw backed off and its resting on the high idle solenoid needle

 

How long have you been running it this way?

What else did you change when you did your injection pump and injectors?

Did you also put in a return line kit? Or just reused the old one with new 0-rings?

The timing will not change RPM's significantly, without also causing notceable changes in how it runs. I.e. smoke, knocking. Are you sure you got the right injector, pump parts for Your truck?

 

tranny problem started just after i put the injection pump in, its just a pump rebuild, i changed all the fuel return lines as well

 

ford&farmin,

If you have an automatic tranny you had to remove the FILP (Fuel Injection Lever Position sensor) if you truck has an E4OD transmission or the VRV (Vacuum Regulator Valve) if it has a C6 and reinstall them on the new IP.

Since those control shift points, yes the IP change is what cause the transmission shifting to change.

This is why your trucks equipment needs to be listed when you have problems.
Two different automatics, two different manuals, two different glow plug systems and two different water seperator system were used in the IDI equipped trucks from Ford.