Casey, here's some more for your reading enjoyment: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ug-switch.html

 

I have found what maybe a more simply answer from my question. This is off a parts list here on the web. It says that you can go to international and buy a deactivation kit for our glow plugs that fits our trucks. The Parts number is 1831142C91. It will deactivate the glow plugs when the coolant temp is above 115 degrees. This sounds like a winner to me, but has anybody installed it? I would like some feed back on it before I dive in or maybe I'll be the guinuea pig and do it first/

 

When you get a chip from TW it does the same as that glow plug deactivation kit....plus you get more HP...I went that route ....instead hahahah

I just want a GPR that will last more than 4 months.

Yukonsly

 

When you got that program on your chip from TW, did you have to ask for it? I think I might get that same one and I just wanted to know if I should specify or not, and how does it work? Can you notice them off when you have a warm start? Thanks

 

comes standard on the chip...so does a different shift pattern from my 95's.....
Glow plugs come on...when they need to...simple...difference is when truck is warm....they don't come on

yukonsly

 

Wow, talk about resurrecting an old thread, but my Napa GPR 111 died AGAIN this week, and I am on the hunt for something that will last a little longer than these Napa GPRs. I've gone through three Napa 111 GPRs in the 2+ years I've owned the truck, which, from what I've read, isn't too bad, but this last one lasted over a year and is now out of warranty.

I'm not about to spend another $70 on a GPR 111 that might last just until the warranty is up, so I was considering trying the Stancor 586-902 GPR mod. I came across Guzzle's write-up, here, and it looks like the way to go. I can get the Stancor relay from Mouser Electronics for less than $60 shipped, but before I order it, I was wondering if there's a better option for around the same price I should be looking at.

I also want to keep my engine cover installed, so does anyone know just how much "trimming" is necessary to install the cover with this bigger relay? I know I could just keep the cover off, but it makes the engine look so much cleaner installed.

If the Stancor relay is still the way to go, I'll be ordering one up this weekend and make sure to keep the truck in the garage at night for easier starts in the morning until I get the new relay installed.

Thanks!

 

$70 for a NAPA GPR?
Last one I got from Autozone was $20. I bought an extra at the time, too. GPR 109, same part number at Advance auto.

But you can't go wrong with the Stancor. It's big, though, and I bet you'll have to mod your cover, or mount it on the passenger fender and get it off the motor.

 

I thought $70 was a lot for a GPR, too, but if you go to Napa's website online, it shows the GPR 111 is now $75.49! The GPR 109 is much cheaper, but still listed at $35.99.

I could see spending even the $75 if they would actually last, but that price for something that has failed three times in two years is outrageous. It looks like I'll be ordering up the Stancor unit and figure out how to mod the cover to fit over it or find a way to mount it somewhere else.

Thanks Jim!

 

if your truck is consuming gprs like candy, is it possible that the glow plugs themselves may be drawing too much current through the gpr and may be time to consider replacing them as well??? just a thought. dont know what the current draw should be on a new GP, or how much current the GPR can handle. but jeeeeeeeeez thats alot of gprs in a short amount of time...

 

When installing a new GPR does it matter where the wires go?
Or is small to small and big to big OK?

 

The GPs are all functioning properly as long as the relay is good. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to replace them, but I'll wait until something else needs attention under the valve covers (like injectors) before I tear in there just for GP replacement.

From what I've read, a lot of PSD guys, even those with newer 7.3's tend to eat GPRs like crazy. That is, until they upgrade and say they've never had a problem since. I just don't think the original relay was designed for the duty cycle it gets. Every time you fire up the truck, it has to engage the GPs at least briefly. That's why a GPR override switch would be nice and may be a future mod.

I'd be willing to bet that many of you that live in places where it never drops below 50 outside probably have bad GPRs, but never know it, since you don't need them to get the truck to fire first thing in the morning. You don't realize how important a properly functioning GP system is until you go to fire the truck up on a cold morning and it refuses to start, so then you have to plug it in and wait a couple hours.


It shouldn't matter where the wires go, as long as you make sure you go small to small and big to big and keep them paired up the same as on the original GPR.

 

Everytime you turn the key, the GPs are on for a specified time unless you have a switch to turn them off.

 

I just picked up a GPR-109 and noticed that when I install it it will be turned 45 degress. There is also an S and an I marking on the smaller wire posts where the original has no such markings. Does it matter which small wire goes to which post. I know this was answered earlier in this post just not sure I understood the "pairing" comment. Oh yeah what could happen if you hook this up wrong?

Thanks - Rich

 

When swapping out GPRs, I've always just made sure to keep track of the wires so I could reinstall them the same way they came off. I don't think anything really bad would happen if you messed up the pairing of the small wires, but I also haven't tried it.

Anyone else know for sure?

 

Id do the same thing, but it doesnt matter if you put the small in the small post and the bigger in the bigger post. its impossible that you do it in the wrong way, I mean tha small wire in the big post.