Another Chewbacca problem
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Another Chewbacca problem
OK, so I get the Chewbacca 
sound from my driver's window.
Soon after that sound starts showing up, the window sticks--if I help it, it will start moving again. Finally, the window stalled completely--fortunately in the closed position.
Besides lubrication (which I will start with), are there other problems that can cause this, such as dying motor, or broken regulator?
When I press the "down" button the car's voltage drops significantly.
Thanks.
Soon after that sound starts showing up, the window sticks--if I help it, it will start moving again. Finally, the window stalled completely--fortunately in the closed position.
Besides lubrication (which I will start with), are there other problems that can cause this, such as dying motor, or broken regulator?
When I press the "down" button the car's voltage drops significantly.
Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,621
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From: Sweetwater Texas
Yeah, my grandfathers 94 F250 burned up both of the motors in it withen a week from each other, and then it rained about 3 inches with both windows stuck down!
Before the motors went out, they made the chewbacka noise as well.
Before the motors went out, they made the chewbacka noise as well.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,226
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From: The OC
The motors have nylon plugs that break up and brushes that go bad, thats it. You can do it yourself and get brushes for cheap and nylon dowel rods at Homey Depot for a couple of bucks. New motors at the parts houses are about $80 to $90.
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Oh Jeez, you guys jynxed me or something. After reading these Chewbacca window threads here, I was thinking to myself...hmm my power window squeeks a little but Ive never had any issues with them. Well guess what, now I need to grab the window and help it up to close if its being raised from the fully down position...it like gets stuck and kinda like makes clunking noises almost like something is slipping!
I guess this isnt the first time the power windows had issues on this truck, the original owner said that when he first got it both sides crapped out with in the first 2 months and Ford replaced them with upgraded motors. Well they worked damn good for the next 14 years...just now they are crapping out. I wonder if I should do the passenger sides while Im at it, that one seems to be working fine at the moment but I suppose that will be crapping out sooner or later!
I guess this isnt the first time the power windows had issues on this truck, the original owner said that when he first got it both sides crapped out with in the first 2 months and Ford replaced them with upgraded motors. Well they worked damn good for the next 14 years...just now they are crapping out. I wonder if I should do the passenger sides while Im at it, that one seems to be working fine at the moment but I suppose that will be crapping out sooner or later!
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: ida,va.
spray some white lithium grease on the rollers and tracks.Also check rollers,I've had them wear out before.
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Just a follow up.
It was the motor. Unbelievably difficult to change the motor, as it is mostly hidden behind sheet metal. Kept on dropping screws down inside the door, but eventually became facile at fishing them back out. Once I changed it, though, the window worked great, except....
Some doofus who assembled the replacement motor wired it backwards! Up now meant down and down meant up. Fortunately I tested it prior to reassembling the door. Ended up having to swap the wires in the electrical connector. Let this be a warning to anyone else replacing the motor--check before closing everything up.
It was the motor. Unbelievably difficult to change the motor, as it is mostly hidden behind sheet metal. Kept on dropping screws down inside the door, but eventually became facile at fishing them back out. Once I changed it, though, the window worked great, except....
Some doofus who assembled the replacement motor wired it backwards! Up now meant down and down meant up. Fortunately I tested it prior to reassembling the door. Ended up having to swap the wires in the electrical connector. Let this be a warning to anyone else replacing the motor--check before closing everything up.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Don't replace the entire motor if the plastic gear is bad (stripped). 85% of the time that's the problem. The gear kit is available from Ford, NAPA and other parts stores. It fits ALL Ford cars and trucks 1970/1996 (and maybe later).
D0AZ62234A24B .. Power Window Motor Plastic Gear Kit
NOTE: It may not be a bad motor at all. The squarish plastic window roller that bolts on the end of the regulator arm and slides in the window channel, may be broken...it's available everywhere. A 3 buck part.
D0AZ62234A24B .. Power Window Motor Plastic Gear Kit
NOTE: It may not be a bad motor at all. The squarish plastic window roller that bolts on the end of the regulator arm and slides in the window channel, may be broken...it's available everywhere. A 3 buck part.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Aug 5, 2007 at 01:16 PM.
Senior User
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From: Hallandale Beach
If you ever have to go back in to get after the motor, pop the access holes to the bolts first. Look on the sheetmetal blocking your access to the screws and you'll see some indents, punch marks. Drill a 1/2" hole at each of them and you'll be able to get straight at the bolts with a 1/4" drive socket. Thats how it is in my '90, I'm assuming yours will be the same.
B
B
Originally Posted by rsjaffe
Just a follow up.
It was the motor. Unbelievably difficult to change the motor, as it is mostly hidden behind sheet metal. Kept on dropping screws down inside the door, but eventually became facile at fishing them back out. Once I changed it, though, the window worked great, except....
Some doofus who assembled the replacement motor wired it backwards! Up now meant down and down meant up. Fortunately I tested it prior to reassembling the door. Ended up having to swap the wires in the electrical connector. Let this be a warning to anyone else replacing the motor--check before closing everything up.
It was the motor. Unbelievably difficult to change the motor, as it is mostly hidden behind sheet metal. Kept on dropping screws down inside the door, but eventually became facile at fishing them back out. Once I changed it, though, the window worked great, except....
Some doofus who assembled the replacement motor wired it backwards! Up now meant down and down meant up. Fortunately I tested it prior to reassembling the door. Ended up having to swap the wires in the electrical connector. Let this be a warning to anyone else replacing the motor--check before closing everything up.
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Yeah, I did drill the access holes and use a socket through them. I just kept losing the screws as they'd fall out of the socket. Also, maneuvering the old motor out and the new motor in was quite a challenge. You're working through a pretty small hole.
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From: Hallandale Beach
Originally Posted by rsjaffe
Yeah, I did drill the access holes and use a socket through them. I just kept losing the screws as they'd fall out of the socket. Also, maneuvering the old motor out and the new motor in was quite a challenge. You're working through a pretty small hole.
