87 Ranger Clutch problem
New User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2
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From: Tulsa, OK
I have replaced the clutch in my 87 Ranger and had a similar thing happen. Make sure you get the correct throw out bearing. I had to pull everything apart because it was doing exactly what you are talking about, due to the wrong part.
New User
Joined: Jul 2007
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Gee, everyone is telling you to pull your engine and spend a lot of money, and they may be right. But ....
My '99 Ranger has had this problem erratically over the years, and I wanted to be sure what's up before pulling the engine to get to the slave cylinder (don't get me started, why the slave cylinder is hidden in the tranny bell...)
One time, it broke down near the Lincoln dealer on this issue. They bled the clutch system, found some air, cost not a lot & seemed to fix the problem for a year or so. Now it's coming back, but I'm going back to the "bleeders" and asking some more questions.
One such question: is my clutch set too "high," so the slave cylinder is thrown too farge out when the clutch pedal is thrown to the floor? Reason I ask, when limping home with this problem, I find I can still operate the truck if I never use the clutch deeper than just enough to disengage.
I logged on here to see if any others had this problem (word of mouth in my town already shows one other victim). I don't want to replace the slave cylinder for hundreds and HUNDREDS of dollars, when the problem is too erratic to be what I have seen from failed slave cylinders//master cylinders//pressure plates in the past 40 years...
My '99 Ranger has had this problem erratically over the years, and I wanted to be sure what's up before pulling the engine to get to the slave cylinder (don't get me started, why the slave cylinder is hidden in the tranny bell...)
One time, it broke down near the Lincoln dealer on this issue. They bled the clutch system, found some air, cost not a lot & seemed to fix the problem for a year or so. Now it's coming back, but I'm going back to the "bleeders" and asking some more questions.
One such question: is my clutch set too "high," so the slave cylinder is thrown too farge out when the clutch pedal is thrown to the floor? Reason I ask, when limping home with this problem, I find I can still operate the truck if I never use the clutch deeper than just enough to disengage.
I logged on here to see if any others had this problem (word of mouth in my town already shows one other victim). I don't want to replace the slave cylinder for hundreds and HUNDREDS of dollars, when the problem is too erratic to be what I have seen from failed slave cylinders//master cylinders//pressure plates in the past 40 years...
New User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Gee, everyone is telling you to pull your engine and spend a lot of money, and they may be right. But ....
My '99 Ranger has had this problem erratically over the years, and I wanted to be sure what's up before pulling the engine to get to the slave cylinder (don't get me started, why the slave cylinder is hidden in the tranny bell...)
One time, it broke down near the Lincoln dealer on this issue. They bled the clutch system, found some air, cost not a lot & seemed to fix the problem for a year or so. Now it's coming back, but I'm going back to the "bleeders" and asking some more questions.
One such question: is my clutch set too "high," so the slave cylinder is thrown too far out when the clutch pedal is thrown to the floor? Reason I ask, when limping home with this problem, I find I can still operate the truck if I never use the clutch deeper than just enough to disengage.
I logged on here to see if any others had this problem (word of mouth in my town already shows one other victim). I don't want to replace the slave cylinder for hundreds and HUNDREDS of dollars, when the problem is too erratic to be what I have seen from failed slave cylinders//master cylinders//pressure plates in the past 40 years...
My '99 Ranger has had this problem erratically over the years, and I wanted to be sure what's up before pulling the engine to get to the slave cylinder (don't get me started, why the slave cylinder is hidden in the tranny bell...)
One time, it broke down near the Lincoln dealer on this issue. They bled the clutch system, found some air, cost not a lot & seemed to fix the problem for a year or so. Now it's coming back, but I'm going back to the "bleeders" and asking some more questions.
One such question: is my clutch set too "high," so the slave cylinder is thrown too far out when the clutch pedal is thrown to the floor? Reason I ask, when limping home with this problem, I find I can still operate the truck if I never use the clutch deeper than just enough to disengage.
I logged on here to see if any others had this problem (word of mouth in my town already shows one other victim). I don't want to replace the slave cylinder for hundreds and HUNDREDS of dollars, when the problem is too erratic to be what I have seen from failed slave cylinders//master cylinders//pressure plates in the past 40 years...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
Before I do any vacuming or bleeding or anything, how much fluid should be in the clutch reservoir? Its the 2.9 Fuel Injected engine.
EDIT: I should mention that after I first started the engine 2-3 weeks ago, after the truck had been in a stand still for a long time, when you let go of clutch, the engine slowed and the truck moved maybe 2-3 inches back, and when you pushed back down on the clutch, the truck rolled back to where it was, this was the save for 1st and Reverse, it did this maybe 4-5 times, then after that, it just stopped moving. I don't believe the clutch is slipping, but rather stuck open because the transmission will freely shift between gears while revving it, and there appears to be no clutch smoke/smell that you would expect form a slipping clutch
EDIT: I should mention that after I first started the engine 2-3 weeks ago, after the truck had been in a stand still for a long time, when you let go of clutch, the engine slowed and the truck moved maybe 2-3 inches back, and when you pushed back down on the clutch, the truck rolled back to where it was, this was the save for 1st and Reverse, it did this maybe 4-5 times, then after that, it just stopped moving. I don't believe the clutch is slipping, but rather stuck open because the transmission will freely shift between gears while revving it, and there appears to be no clutch smoke/smell that you would expect form a slipping clutch
Last edited by Lead Head; Jul 21, 2007 at 09:30 PM.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Rhode Island
Well just an update, I went and messed with it today again, I noticed the clutch seemed to be catching a bit, when I let up off it, you could definitely feel something engaged because the truck kind of shook a bit each time I tried. But that was when the enigne had only been running for about 2-3 minutes. After that it kinda just stopped engaging, if it matters, today was a colder day at around 60*F
New User
Joined: Jul 2007
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What you describe as the truck moving "just a little" is what I experienced, too. In fact, if I let the clutch out (and left it out), sometimes it would "grab" after awhile, stalling the engine with a lurch. That's another reason I ruled out pressure plate failure.
I found that I could limp home this way. If I got the truck moving, maybe by racing the engine, and then backed off the gas to the idle speed, the clutch would become engaged (stop slipping, matching engine & driveshaft speed).
If I then used very gentle acceleration, the truck could be driven and even worked up through the gears. I also found that if I did NOT put the clutch to the floor, but rather JUST enough to disengage the gear shift, I could navigate virtually normally, even restarting from stops.
Not to say that you want to drive this way, but as a part of the diagnosis process and an emergency trip home!...
I found that I could limp home this way. If I got the truck moving, maybe by racing the engine, and then backed off the gas to the idle speed, the clutch would become engaged (stop slipping, matching engine & driveshaft speed).
If I then used very gentle acceleration, the truck could be driven and even worked up through the gears. I also found that if I did NOT put the clutch to the floor, but rather JUST enough to disengage the gear shift, I could navigate virtually normally, even restarting from stops.
Not to say that you want to drive this way, but as a part of the diagnosis process and an emergency trip home!...
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 514
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From: Ohio
You have not mentioned your mileage but with the truck being an 87 I'm assuming its been driven enough to suggest you have some worn out clutch parts. Yes the biggest part of the job is you have to drop the transmission [not the engine to my knowledge] but IMHO its somewhat of a moot point exactly what it is. This is a job you don't want to repeat so once the bell is down you do the whole clutch kit, slave cylinder and so on. I just don't see this as only a fluid system issue only. Check for that if you wish as I think any of us would hope you were looking at a less expensive and serious repair. That's not the sense I get, however.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 537
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From: Yes
Customstringer is right, this just doesn't sound like a hydraulic problem. Even if it is, the only component outside the bellhousing is the M/C. If you really think the master isn't letting fluid backflow, and is holding the clutch in the disengaged position, unhook the quick disconnect at the bell, and try starting it in gear. This will open the hydraulic system to release any of the alleged pressure the master would be holding. If this doesn't actuate the clutch, it's time to face the bitter truth, your going to be dropping a transmission. But on the brighter side, it's light, if you're strong, or have a good friend, you don't need a trans jack, so enjoy that perk of owning a RBV!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
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From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by BSmitty
Customstringer is right, this just doesn't sound like a hydraulic problem. Even if it is, the only component outside the bellhousing is the M/C. If you really think the master isn't letting fluid backflow, and is holding the clutch in the disengaged position, unhook the quick disconnect at the bell, and try starting it in gear. This will open the hydraulic system to release any of the alleged pressure the master would be holding. If this doesn't actuate the clutch, it's time to face the bitter truth, your going to be dropping a transmission. But on the brighter side, it's light, if you're strong, or have a good friend, you don't need a trans jack, so enjoy that perk of owning a RBV!
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Autozone lists 6 different clutch kits from $109 to $269.
http://www.autozone.com/N,11200179/s...eResultSet.htm
They list several slave cylinders starting at $102.
http://www.autozone.com/N,11200726/s...eResultSet.htm
The clutch master may also have to be replaced as well as brake components. Hydraulic systems collect moisture, and while sitting rust away fouling and plugging everything up. jd
http://www.autozone.com/N,11200179/s...eResultSet.htm
They list several slave cylinders starting at $102.
http://www.autozone.com/N,11200726/s...eResultSet.htm
The clutch master may also have to be replaced as well as brake components. Hydraulic systems collect moisture, and while sitting rust away fouling and plugging everything up. jd
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by jimdandy
Autozone lists 6 different clutch kits from $109 to $269.
http://www.autozone.com/N,11200179/shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm
They list several slave cylinders starting at $102.
http://www.autozone.com/N,11200726/shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm
The clutch master may also have to be replaced as well as brake components. Hydraulic systems collect moisture, and while sitting rust away fouling and plugging everything up. jd
http://www.autozone.com/N,11200179/shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm
They list several slave cylinders starting at $102.
http://www.autozone.com/N,11200726/shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm
The clutch master may also have to be replaced as well as brake components. Hydraulic systems collect moisture, and while sitting rust away fouling and plugging everything up. jd
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