Boxing the Frame
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 25
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From: Herald, CA
Boxing the Frame
Hello all,
I hoping I can get some guidance on boxing my frame. I'm just about to have the frame sand blasted and need information on the prep for a front and rear IS.
What type of material, how thick, where should the boxing start and finish. I've seen the photos of John's frame, is this the standard?
On a separate topic, I have a complete front and rear suspension/axles I've taken off my 53. They're rusty but other than that in pretty good shape that I would give to someone that needs an orignal unit. I live in Herald, CA.
Thanks for the help.
I hoping I can get some guidance on boxing my frame. I'm just about to have the frame sand blasted and need information on the prep for a front and rear IS.
What type of material, how thick, where should the boxing start and finish. I've seen the photos of John's frame, is this the standard?
On a separate topic, I have a complete front and rear suspension/axles I've taken off my 53. They're rusty but other than that in pretty good shape that I would give to someone that needs an orignal unit. I live in Herald, CA.
Thanks for the help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I used 1/8 inch mild plate steel. You really don't need anything heavier. I found it much easier to make cardboard templates for the pieces and then take them to a sheet metal shop to have the metal cut to size...and it wasn't expensive. I boxed the front of my 48 frame to the firewall since I was using a Volare suspension and it only cost me 25 bucks for the boxing pieces. For both front and rear independent suspension you should box the entire frame from one end to the other. Be sure to leave access holes where you may need them. I forgot that and had to drill some holes in the plating later... 
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,022
Likes: 9,975
From: Rio Rancho, NM
1/8 flatbar or 11 gauge is about all you need. I cut my boxing plates out of 1/8 x 6 flat bar (I was able to find some good drop of the stuff at my buddies fabrication shop....freebie) I made cardboard templates and then cut the boxing plates using a metal blade in my jigsaw. I boxed the frame on my 49 from the front crossmember back to the transmission crossmember.
When I put my boxing plates in I made them so they fit inside the frame channel. I set them in about 1/4". This made for easier welding as it gives you a nice inside corner to weld to instead of an outside edge.
Remember to weld in short burst and skip around, don't let alot of heat build up in any one area. Don't go back and weld on an area until its cool enough to touch. Also, make sure you have all your mounting holes, etc thought out before boxing the frame. I had to replace one running board bracket on my truck so after grinding the rivets away I welded some nuts to the back side of the frame so that I wouldn't have to try and fish a wrench in there later. You could also cut some large oval access holes in the boxing plates.
Good luck
Bobby
When I put my boxing plates in I made them so they fit inside the frame channel. I set them in about 1/4". This made for easier welding as it gives you a nice inside corner to weld to instead of an outside edge.
Remember to weld in short burst and skip around, don't let alot of heat build up in any one area. Don't go back and weld on an area until its cool enough to touch. Also, make sure you have all your mounting holes, etc thought out before boxing the frame. I had to replace one running board bracket on my truck so after grinding the rivets away I welded some nuts to the back side of the frame so that I wouldn't have to try and fish a wrench in there later. You could also cut some large oval access holes in the boxing plates.
Good luck
Bobby
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I also like to inset boxing plates like Bobby said it makes it easier to weld less likely to warp and cleaner looking. Paint the inside of the frame and the back side of the boxing plates with "weld through" primer available at welding suppliers before welding the plates in to keep it from weeping rust stains later on. It is not necessary to weld the boxing plates in with a continuous bead, skip weld 1" beads every 3" will be just as strong. I like drilling two 3" holes with a holesaw ~ 7" on centers then cut between with a cutoff wheel to make an oval opening spaced ~ every 12" or across from any internal bolts to allow wrench access to the inside. If you need to bolt thru the frame weld in compression tubes for the bolts to go thru.
Last edited by AXracer; Jul 17, 2007 at 03:25 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,511
Likes: 1
From: peyton, colorado
I use the same guage as already mentioned, but with a different welding method. Because I don't like out of position welds, I inset the bottom edge of the plate 1/4" for easy welding. The top edge I place flush. I bevel the top edge of the plate for good penetration, and weld in from the top. Both top and bottom welds are in position welds this way. It takes a sharp eye to notice that it's different. Only one guy noticed and asked why I did it that way. I told him that the trapazoid shape tube that results is stiffer than a standard rectangle tube. Inverted trapazoid boxing is what I called it.....
On a different note. I saw an article awhile back for a ready made duece roadster marketed by Speedway. They are using a boxing method called truss boxing. Zig zag strap is welded inside the "C", connecting the top, bottom and side. Think of a piece of cardboard and you'll get the idea. I can see where that method would be useful if you needed lots of access to fasteners and such, but it would be alot of work for a home builder.
On a different note. I saw an article awhile back for a ready made duece roadster marketed by Speedway. They are using a boxing method called truss boxing. Zig zag strap is welded inside the "C", connecting the top, bottom and side. Think of a piece of cardboard and you'll get the idea. I can see where that method would be useful if you needed lots of access to fasteners and such, but it would be alot of work for a home builder.
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