36'' tires
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: In a hole
36'' tires
I been thinking i want to get 36'' tires to fit on the 78 bronco i have.
what is the cheapest but still decent way for them to fit? it has a 3'' lift now(not body), so i was thinking shakel flip in the rear to get around 7'' but what about the front?
what is the cheapest but still decent way for them to fit? it has a 3'' lift now(not body), so i was thinking shakel flip in the rear to get around 7'' but what about the front?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Williamsburg, VA
Put fender flares on it. I've got 4" out back and 3" up front with 35's. They clear fine. I put the flares on it to get rid of the rust on the wheel well lips. Now I have too much room, so I'm going with bigger tires. Either 36 or 38... Haven't decided yet.
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From: SE Texas
Lower the coil spring towers, or install F-250 springs. But I agree with trimming/cutting the fenders. If done right, it looks factory. I cut 3" around the front fenders on my 78, and have 38's with only 1" lift. I put some of the rubber waetherstripping from the door on the edge of the fender, too. maybe I'll have pics next week, JSM84
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 131
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From: Williamsburg, VA
JMO... I think the fender radius with the flares fits bigger tires better. Besides, I didn't think you were looking for the stock look with the new hood scoop. If you're not doing any serious wheeling, the lift you have now will keep the fenders off the tires. If you'll be flexing the suspension a whole lot then you may need a little more room.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Louisiana
You should be able to fit them with what you have. I have a 6" lift and 36s, and I have way to much room. A 4" would of done fine for me.
You might not want to go with a full 7-8" of lift with 36s(they'll look to small), and if you go any bigger, you'll need to upgrade axles unless you don't plan on useing the truck to hard.
There is nothing wrong with cutting the fenders. I wish I would of done it now. IF I ever have enough money to blow on upgradeing to a D60 front with chromolys, I'd put at least 39.5s and cut the fenders.
You will need to regear no matter what. I'd say at least 4.10s, nut no more than 4.88s, and this depends on what kind of power you plan on running and type of off roading you do.
You might not want to go with a full 7-8" of lift with 36s(they'll look to small), and if you go any bigger, you'll need to upgrade axles unless you don't plan on useing the truck to hard.
There is nothing wrong with cutting the fenders. I wish I would of done it now. IF I ever have enough money to blow on upgradeing to a D60 front with chromolys, I'd put at least 39.5s and cut the fenders.
You will need to regear no matter what. I'd say at least 4.10s, nut no more than 4.88s, and this depends on what kind of power you plan on running and type of off roading you do.
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Its hard to take a saws-all to your truck. (I know) but if done right, it looks good and you get the benifit of large tires without the draw back of top heavy truck. My truck is very good in off camber situations (off road) and high speed turns on road.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
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From: Louisiana
Here's a pic of my 79 with no lift in the front, and a add a leaf in the back with my tires, which actually measure out to 36.8"
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=90783&width=0
It would rub alittle on one side(I think the right) when I'd turned or hit bumps.
But with a 3" lift in the front, it wouldn't of rubbed at all unless I hit some big bumps hard.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=90783&width=0
It would rub alittle on one side(I think the right) when I'd turned or hit bumps.
But with a 3" lift in the front, it wouldn't of rubbed at all unless I hit some big bumps hard.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
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From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by 79-400-POWER
Thats a good looking bronco.
how bad was it without gears?
how bad was it without gears?
how bad was it without gears????????
........ahhhh BAD!!!! but at the same time not to to bad.
When it was in 4hi and in gear, I would have to give it gas to make it move. In 4 Lo it would move without gas pretty easily. When I'd go off road, I would try and use it in 4 lo and in drive, unless I wanted alittle more wheel speed, then I'd put it straight to second.
I got by doing it like that for a while, but I regeared to 4.56, in 4 hi in gear it moves without gas pretty easily, but in low, it jumps!
I've thought back about it, and I would of done it two ways.
1) Just like I did or
2) Put a 4" lift max, and some 33x13.50-15 Super Swamper LTBs. I wouldn't of regeared(I could of taken stock gears and 33s), and welded the rear(or if I had more money a lock right or something like that).
IF I get another truck, I'll try way #2.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
I kept the same axles, because there was no need to upgrade for a 36" tire. I was really wanting to go with about a 39" tire, but didn't have the money, time, or means to upgrade axles....
To regear:
I bought a new center section with 4.56 gears, timken bearings, a spool, and a 1330 yoke from MAE racing for $500 shipped, and installed it myself.
I bought a aussie locker on ebay for my D44 for $180 shipped
Got my Front gears done at a local shop for alittle under $600 and that included ring and pinon, master install(all new bearings and seals), I needed a new center pin, and to install my aussie locker, filled with gear lube.
This was the absolute cheapest I could do it. Basically $1,100 without the front locker.
The $1,200 or so is why I will do way #2 next time with a little smaller tire. Save money or gearing, smaller tires are cheaper, and I'd get cheaper wheels.
So way #2 is at the very least $1,500 cheaper.
To regear:
I bought a new center section with 4.56 gears, timken bearings, a spool, and a 1330 yoke from MAE racing for $500 shipped, and installed it myself.
I bought a aussie locker on ebay for my D44 for $180 shipped
Got my Front gears done at a local shop for alittle under $600 and that included ring and pinon, master install(all new bearings and seals), I needed a new center pin, and to install my aussie locker, filled with gear lube.
This was the absolute cheapest I could do it. Basically $1,100 without the front locker.
The $1,200 or so is why I will do way #2 next time with a little smaller tire. Save money or gearing, smaller tires are cheaper, and I'd get cheaper wheels.
So way #2 is at the very least $1,500 cheaper.