looking into running bio but my diesel mechanic says they have gotten lots of trucks in there with problems from trying to run it, he did not say what problems but indicated more than fuel filter clogged

want to know if anyone had tried running it and had engine probelms

thanks

 

Check the bio forum. Those guys will know all the ins and outs.

 

Lots of discussion in this forum on BIO.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum168/

 

Been running it off and on for 6 months up to B-20 with no ill effects. It will clean the crap out of your tank and it's usually best to have a spare fuel filter on hand. Hope this helps , others will chime in and I know some run B-99.

 

Here is a site with a very good amount of info on it.
http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/gettingstarted/

 

i read quite a bit on the bio forum on this site but my impression was all those people are running it or making it themselves, just wondering if some people tried it and "failed" etc

but thanks for all the links and info


any reasons a lot of you other guys haven't tried it? nto available or don't want to risk problems???
from what i read it should be really good for the motor??

 

I am considering a WVO coversion. A friend has just set up a very elaborate trailer to do a diesel and WVO blend. I'm a little aprehensive of a side effect I have heard of called Coking. It deals with big engine problems associated with the breakdown of the engines oil through a chemical process associated with using it. I don't fully understand the process. That may be what your mechanics were refering to.

 

I started running B100, home brew, about 1K mi ago. Started with a brand new stock filter and no problems yet. It will eat into some of the old dino diesel soot inside the tank and will eventually clog a filter, but I have heard that it stops after that. I still have not needed to check my filter, but will change it before winter regardless.

 

Switched to B99 at 70k miles and no problems. I keep a close eye on the fuel filter and change it regularly just because I'm like that. Most problems I've heard of is to do with the bio being such a detergent that cracked or worn fuel lines will leak and it will clean out any gunk in the tank. My engine runs quieter, starts easier, and smells way better running bio/bio blend. Also, the engine oil looks almost new when running bio.... it doesn't get nearly as black looking compared to using straight #2.

 

What does your type of fuel have to do with coking? Coking is a lubrication problem...not a fuel problem. From Banks:

In the early days of turbochargers, the turbo shaft was supported by a babbitt bearing that could seize, or even melt, if the engine was shut off immediately after sustained boost conditions where the turbocharger would “heat soak”. A two minute cool down at idle allowed the turbocharger to dissipate any remaining spinning inertia, and the oil circulation cooled the bearing and prevented oil “coking” in the bearing area. Turbochargers haven’t used babbitt bearings for over 30 years, and today’s oils resist coking. Synthetic oils won’t coke, period. With a turbocharged gas engine, it’s still good insurance to let the engine idle for 30 seconds to a minute to allow the turbo or turbos to dissipate any inertia and to cool the bearing area to prevent oil coking, especially if the engine has been worked hard just prior to shut-down. Of course, using quality synthetic oil eliminates this potential coking problem.

Here is something to look at:



Also you might want to read this:

http://h1.ripway.com/nlemerise/Ford/Lubricity.pdf

 

I had just read that before you posted it. The coking that I had heard about was coking of the engine's lubrication oil. I am going from memory here. It was a discussion on a WVO website I was reading back in March and a guy brought it up. He was a mechanic and sounded very athoratative about the whole subject. Kinda scared me a bit.

 

B99 when I can get it, as well as B20... No issues

 

The reference to coking when using straight wvo is that the injectors can gum up if the wvo isn't heated sufficiently, and when you shut down the engine, the "less than optimal temp" wvo will burn a coating over your injectors and piston. Over time this will cause hard starts, poor atomization, and if left long enough, cylinder wall scoring from the microscopic "coking" deposits hardening in the high heat condition and breaking off of the injector and piston, getting lodged bewtween the piston and cylinder wall.

HOWEVER- do not be scared away from using wvo or bio. If you properly filter and preheat wvo to about 160* (using coolant and/or electric heaters) you will have no problems what so ever. I would recommend FN74 for wvo, or LESKWVO, both members here.

As for bio, I run it when I can get it, and I run B100 until I run out and start mixing #2 with it. Again PROPERLY made bio is awesome! I got some from a guy that didn't wash his stuff, and it clogged the main filter, and then the huge Racor filter I put on afterwards. Luckily I had the 100 gals in my aux tank I drained a little at a time, aerated with a fish tank bubbler for a day, and then let settle for a day, and it was crystal clear. Stay away from bio that is cloudy- means the "manufacturer" didn't put enough work into it.

 

Here's a couple of links about my experience with my WVO blend:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9751014871/m/7441077502

Check out post 11 and 13 here:
http://www.frybrid.com/forum/showthr...?t=5788&page=2

Let the flaming begin. LOL

 

Eric the first forum you refered to is the one I was reading. I remember readin g some of your posts there. My friend and I have put together a pretty elaborate filtering set-up complete with a diesel pump from a service yard. Several 55 gallon drums wet blocks etc. Our final filter is 2 microns. All mounted to a 5x10 traler. We just have been a little afraid to put it to use. Neither one of us wants to subject our trucks to the experiment. He has a 2005 f350 6.0 and I have my 7.3. I