Bronco Graveyard has Moser max 4340 alloy shafts for a little aover 500 bucks they use the 5-760x ujoints. That price is for the whole shot inners,outers, drivers and passengers sides.

 

I'd also consider mayber tightening up your front and rear gear difference there monster, as thats probably why things broke as the shook load is gonna be a bit more with your difference in gearing.

 

im no expert but what if you use a softer spring so when it does slam down it absorbes some more of the weight and keeps the fronts from bitting so hard at first i just think that would be a cheaper route then gears plus with them spinning as fast as you have them now they would still get you moving with more wheel spin

 

Superior Axle offers 40 spline Chomo's not sure the price.

 

then he will start blowing ring and pinions and drive flanges

 

I dont think he will have to worry too much about his ring and pinion and drive flanges if he upgrades his axles/u-joints. The ring and pinion will be the next weak link but I highly doubt that he will break them.

 

Naw I setup my ring and pinion up pretty tight, looks like I may just have to run another set of stockers for the next race, can't afford the good axles, could probably swing the yukons with the super joints but thats about it right now for a month or so and KO says to not go that route, assuming he has personal knowledge on them that isn't good (guess I shouldn't have bought those extra parts for the 572, and upgrades fro the PSD at the same time. lol)

 

the yukon 60 shafts i have have held up flawless(and longfield joints) but you can do a quick search on pirate and see the poor quality of the yukon 44 shafts...moser and dutchman 44 shafts bring the suck as well
if you upgrade shafts go with superior or alloy usa...period

i would suggest trying spicer life series joints with full cirlce clips in stock shafts for now...if that doesnt hold up you need chromo or larger shafts

is there an easy way to stretch your wheelbase some to keep the front down?

 

he can't move the front ahead cause i think the classes he runs in doesn't allow the front axle any further ahead then the #1 cyclinder.

I think you need to run a driveshaft fuse, as then if it breaks you won't get fired off into the wall as bad as if one front joint break, plus you can save you're front axles and joints to with the proper strength shear bolt (pats driveline does them, if you want monster i could probably call them or get you their number).

 

KO the funny thing is I am not breaking the ujoints, I wear them out once in awhile (finally replaced the left one after 3 yrs, right one a couple of times in that 3 yrs but non broken just getting loose) so spending the money on spicer ujoints would be a waste of time and money, I am breaking the axles themselves this time I snapped teh splines off the inner shaft, the time before I snapped the stub shaft right at the base.
Cody has it right though I can't stretch the truck due to class restrictions, depending on where the front axle can't be in front of the #1 cylinder, I am slightly behind it now but moving it forward would definatly not keep it down but exactly the opposite in my case as it would shift weight to the rear axle, making it hook better and lighten the front axle making it lift even easier, I would have to move it about 3 ft before it would start to help.
I might try running some more air pressure in the fronts right now so they spin instead of bite, running 18psi now guess I can go back to 25.
cody if you look my gear differences aren't that great, not nearly as bad as some of the guys, know of one running a D30 (yes that is right a 30 not a typo) against a 1500hp all aluminum 640 cid engine and running the fronts at almost doulbe the rears for speed. I am running less than 15% difference when you factor in tire size, front 4.09, 35" tires (actual is 34.25") rear is 4.63 with 39.5 (actual at 6 psi is right at 37") at third gear shift light that equals the fronts with a tire speed of 93.6mph rears at 89.6

 

Humm i thought you were running a bit more of a difference than that, but yeah can't really do a whole lot there, you could play with the air pressures like i do to get a height difference(i get about and inch difference in my tires), um , you could always stretch the rear out, but that could be a good bit of work.

 

sorry...i keep forgetting you never turn your wheels!!! usually the joints go first, but thats in situations where your wheels are turned

 

Ok Cody what welding rod do I use to fix this???


Anyway decided to order the yukon axles from JBG for now and see how they work for me. as stated I don't turn so should be ok I am thinking.

 

i used to think the same as you, the chromo 44 would be fine,.....they are not!!!......i just shattered both front chromo d44 axles with only 400hp....

 

Ok KO brought it up and maybe it's not clear to everyone, Yes I run over 900hp, I run cut 35" boggers on the front, I run a spool in the front D44 but I also do NOT turn under power, this is straight line only drag racing so for the past 3 yrs I have been running factory stock axles with napa 210-0297 ujoints (you know the cheap ones) might have to replace those once a year most times I have had this same engine in the truck for the past 3 yrs and until this past year never ever even broke a ujoint. So with that said the whole reason I didn't upgrade when I first built this truck was I wanted to see how long it would last before breaking axles, mustange and I talked about this 3 yrs ago the whole issue then was if I broke stockers first time out I would need to skip D44 chromoly shafts and just upgrade to 1 ton stuff but if I could make it at least half the way through the season on a set of stock axles then the moly D44 stuff would probably be enough and keep my weight down in a class I am marginally underpowered in so need every weight advantage i can get (like running half ton stuff etc) well I not only made it half way through the season I made it through several before breaking one when many people on this very site were betting I wouldn't make it one pass.
So basically even if they only last one season at a time I am thinking chromo axles are enough and probably will even be enough when I get the 572 built and add teh nitrous the wife says I can have on it now.